Misfire still present after coil/plug replacement

It's not clogged drains. It's a bad (foam rotted away) seal on the wiper cowl where the passenger wiper shaft goes through. Ford used to (and may still) sell a <$5 kit to fix this. If you can't find that, some foam gasket weatherstripping from Home Depot should work.
 
Well, son of a bitch. She's still back to her misfiring way, specially on cold start. Once she's warm she'll skip a beat every now and again, but will run fine a good 95% of the time.

I tell ya, I'm getting pretty sick of this nightmare.
 
Speaking of the MAF sensor, the bastard that did the work hooked up his Snap-On scan tool to it and he said that it thinks that, barometric pressure wise, that it's below sea level, tho he said it didn't matter. I'm severely doubtful and about to place an order for a MAF just in case.
 
It could be... if you live in New Orleans, or Death Valley.

Sea level pressure is 14.7:1 Ironically the same number is the optimal fuel ratio for every gasoline engine.
 
RyLS said:
Speaking of the MAF sensor, the bastard that did the work hooked up his Snap-On scan tool to it and he said that it thinks that, barometric pressure wise, that it's below sea level, tho he said it didn't matter. I'm severely doubtful and about to place an order for a MAF just in case.
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The air pressure sensor is not in the MAF on the LS.
On gen II, it is part of the EGR valve assembly. On gen I, it is in the DPFE.
 
Someone mind telling me a little bit more about that stupid little "cowl leak"? The dude that did the work is bending over backwards saying that it's that because he found some water in the plug holes, while I'm thinking I got 1 or more marginal coils. Reason for my thinking is because the car still misfires even though it might be a perfect day outside without any rain to get in. And the fact that the PCM is throwing a code for #8, which is in the back side of the engine, which makes it very unlikely for water to get back there.
 
Actually... while cyls 3&4 are known to suffer more from the cowl leak... cyls 7&8 can be affected too. Even with the coil covers installed.

The Ford TSB (Tecnical Service Bulletin) says the water enters where the coil wiring harness goes under the coil cover... and migrates through the harness... shorting out the coils.

Silicone RTV sealer won't help. The only fix is the wiper cowl repair.

Basically... there are a couple foam seals around the wiper arm. When they fail the water gets in and ends up getting into the wiring.

Joegr has mentioned a $5 kit that is a repair (if still available). The other option is to buy some (propet sized) foam pipe insulation from a big box home store and cut your own.

Third option might be going to a hardware store that sells rubber gaskets (like for a garden hose) and find one that is properly sized both in I.D. and O.D.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Actually... while cyls 3&4 are known to suffer more from the cowl leak... cyls 7&8 can be affected too. Even with the coil covers installed.

The Ford TSB (Tecnical Service Bulletin) says the water enters where the coil wiring harness goes under the coil cover... and migrates through the harness... shorting out the coils.

Silicone RTV sealer won't help. The only fix is the wiper cowl repair.

Basically... there are a couple foam seals around the wiper arm. When they fail the water gets in and ends up getting into the wiring.

Joegr has mentioned a $5 kit that is a repair (if still available). The other option is to buy some (propet sized) foam pipe insulation from a big box home store and cut your own.

Third option might be going to a hardware store that sells rubber gaskets (like for a garden hose) and find one that is properly sized both in I.D. and O.D.
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I do see a little $5 seal is still available for sale, so I'm gonna order up one of them.

Another thing I have noticed is that, I somehow keep losing all of my windshield washer fluid. Could that be related?
 
Probably not. The washer bottle might somehow be cracked... or so could the pump.

If someone filled it with water... and their was a breif cold snap it could have froze.

Or the hose may have come off the pump.

Both are fairly easy to change.
 
RyLS said:
I do see a little $5 seal is still available for sale, so I'm gonna order up one of them.

Another thing I have noticed is that, I somehow keep losing all of my windshield washer fluid. Could that be related?
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Just to recap ....your mechanic used dielectric grease on the boots correct? You guys also gapped the plugs correctly?
 
Replaced the cowl seal by myself (after breaking the clips on the cowl pieces and costing me $42 in junkyard parts, but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ )

And in other news, my new mechanic I'm taking the LS to (3rd time's the charm, eh?) has diagnosed it as a fuel pump and wants to do the assembly and the filter. Now, here is where I need this forum's help. Does $250 in labor sound fair to do a fuel pump replacement?

Also, I see that the Delphi is on FCPEuro for ~$220 (comes out to $240 shipped) vs $140 (comes out to $170 shipped) on RockAuto. What would y'all do? Cheap fuel pump with no warranty, or more expensive fuel pump with lifetime warranty? The cheap bastard in me wants to go for the RockAuto deal because a fuel pump isn't a major maintenance item, and once I replace it, its not likely to go bad for a while (unless I get a defective one).
 
If everything goes well (no broken fuel line connectors, no stuck ring), then fuel pump replacement is pretty quick and easy, but that's a big "if." I'd say that $250 labor is fair to pretty good, if he is accepting the risk that things may not go well.
 
joegr said:
If everything goes well (no broken fuel line connectors, no stuck ring), then fuel pump replacement is pretty quick and easy, but that's a big "if." I'd say that $250 labor is fair to pretty good, if he is accepting the risk that things may not go well.
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If this was your LS, and you were faced with the FCPEuro vs Rockauto fuel pump dillema, what would you do?
 
RyLS said:
If this was your LS, and you were faced with the FCPEuro vs Rockauto fuel pump dillema, what would you do?
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I used a Spectra Brand made in Canada Great Fuel Pump assembly for cheap...but yeah if you price the special tool for gas line connectors and it's not going to break the bank the replacement procedure is pretty straight forward...what is your level of Mechanical ability?
 
I guess my point is.... I did a Fuel Pump assembly on a 2001 3.9 I used to own for $89.00 dollars without any special tools
 
RyLS said:
If this was your LS, and you were faced with the FCPEuro vs Rockauto fuel pump dillema, what would you do?
Click to expand...
Honestly, I haven't thought about it. (Seems like the 2nd gen pumps last longer than the 1st gen ones?) I'd have to do some research on it.
 
joegr said:
but that's a big "if.
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I agree with Joe IF...everything goes well and like he said a broken fuel connector is no joke when doing this replacement so unless you have a back-up car in the case something goes WAY WRONG and things break because of age you're better to go with a professional
 
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