Most challenging Fix ever

Lincoln_exe

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OK before i bore you with details, this post will be extremely challenging. If you want to help, thank you VERY much and i hope we find the solution to the problem.

Ill make this as simple as i can by addressing the problems seperately.
The Lincoln with the problem belings to my aunt. Its a 2000 V8 with the chrome on the bumper.

Heres the cause of the problem: Parking vehicle without starting it, for months on end.
It was last started now in augest last year. But not dirven, only to try and figure out the issues. I havnt personally worked on the car, my Brother did. After being unable to figure out the problems, he gave up. He told me all the simptoms. Im going to try to start it tomorrow Myself now since i own an 02 model and i think i know this car better than my Bro.
So heres what HE told me is going on with the Car::

1) LS wont start
2) Over heats after 2 minutes Running (if ur lucky and it starts)

So ill address first problem:
After the LS sat for ... 7 months (AGAIN after my aunt got it running previosly, from being parked for months on end.) It would not start.
Diagnosis:
-Engine turns over, but no ignition of the fuel.
-No sound form fuel pump when ignintion is turned on
-HAS fired up in this state (but overheated and it was shut down)
-Will start by fluke. Sheer fluke. you can keep trying to turn the engine. might only start by fluke.
-New gas was added. No effect.
-Bro said he chcked the fuses. Dont know which ones.
-Battery is Roast. So when trying to start, Need to be boosted.


Second problem:
After running for 2 minutes, Engine will overheated.
Diagnosis:
-Fan not spinning what so ever. Hydrolic fan i believe? well its not spinning.
-All liquids checked and topped up.


Vehicle description:
Car has 72, 000 KM on it (43, 000 miles) Original. Was Krown rust proofed every year and used as winter car.
Has been to mecanic for maintenance, and oil change personally done by me. Its running Mobil 1 full synthetic.

Any additoinal info you guys need just ask me. Please help because this will be and expensive trip to Ford if we dont solve this one.

Thank you.
 
Change the battery and replace the hydro fan with an electric one to start. These cars do really weird :q:q:q:q when the batteries crap out.
 
Change the battery and replace the hydro fan with an electric one to start. These cars do really weird :q:q:q:q when the batteries crap out.

Shred, not understanding why to jump to changing the fan to electric right from the start?

Op, first and foremost, why are you talking about racing in another thread you started and your car does not even work? That is asking to get flamed. Even if you are not a kid, it makes you look like one.


Enough of that though. How good are you at basic work on your car? All the advice in the world to someone who may not know how to execute it is not much good.

With that said, let's start with the starting issue. Have you tested the battery with a multimeter to see if there is a current draw on it? The battery does tend to sound as if it is gone so it could not hurt to install a new oem battery and then run the test to see what results you get.

Report back with what voltage readings you get.
 
Shred, not understanding why to jump to changing the fan to electric right from the start?

Op, first and foremost, why are you talking about racing in another thread you started and your car does not even work? That is asking to get flamed. Even if you are not a kid, it makes you look like one.

I meant that as a solution to the fan problem once the more pressing issues have been resolved. New fan isnt going to do much good if the car doesnt start :{

I think the OP stated that this was his aunt's car and I assume he has a LS of his own
 
Missed that lower case "a" showing it was his Aunt's car.

I stand corrected.
 
-Engine turns over, but no ignition of the fuel.
-No sound form fuel pump when ignition is turned on

Well, it sounds like you need to look at the fuel pumps to me. Mine went bad and the car would sometimes start, and sometimes not start. There are a few threads here about fuel pumps that were started over the last three months or so. Check the related fuses or relays using the diagram in the owners' manual to start.
 
Well, it sounds like you need to look at the fuel pumps to me. Mine went bad and the car would sometimes start, and sometimes not start. There are a few threads here about fuel pumps that were started over the last three months or so. Check the related fuses or relays using the diagram in the owners' manual to start.

Also, you need to drain all that old gasoline out and replace it with new. Gasoline degrades over time, and is generally not expected to work well after a year or so.
 
i use to have to cycle my key 50 times before it would start....I would have to sit in complete silence and listen for my fuel pump to kick on.... after 3 or 4 trips to the dealer, we figured out it was a bad electrical connection going to the fuel pump (loose wire in pigtail)... 2 years later, starts every time...
 
Shred, not understanding why to jump to changing the fan to electric right from the start?

Op, first and foremost, why are you talking about racing in another thread you started and your car does not even work? That is asking to get flamed. Even if you are not a kid, it makes you look like one.


Enough of that though. How good are you at basic work on your car?
I have 1 too. Miine works very well and is upgraded. My AUNTS LS is stock and 2 years older than mine. I hope that clears that up.

And im decent on work. You can explian it to me step by step and i can try my best.
 
Well, it sounds like you need to look at the fuel pumps to me. Mine went bad and the car would sometimes start, and sometimes not start. There are a few threads here about fuel pumps that were started over the last three months or so. Check the related fuses or relays using the diagram in the owners' manual to start.

My Aunt NEVER starts her car over the summer and her battery always dies. Shes replaced it sooo many times cause the batterys go bad on her. Is it possible that letting the battery die soo many times and jumping it to start could have effected the fuel pump? maybe fried it out?
 
My Aunt NEVER starts her car over the summer and her battery always dies. Shes replaced it sooo many times cause the batterys go bad on her. Is it possible that letting the battery die soo many times and jumping it to start could have effected the fuel pump? maybe fried it out?

Tell her to get a trickle battery charger for her winter storage and it will pay for itself many times over in batteries that dont need to be replaced. I would first start by putting a new battery in and seeing where things stand. These cars are very finicky about weak batteries.
 
My Aunt NEVER starts her car over the summer and her battery always dies. Shes replaced it sooo many times cause the batterys go bad on her. Is it possible that letting the battery die soo many times and jumping it to start could have effected the fuel pump? maybe fried it out?

Unlikely. However, old gasoline could have fouled the pumps or the filters.

It sounds like the tow charge plus $100 diagnostic fee at a dealer might be the cheaper way to go for you. You can still do the repairs yourself.
 
***UPDATE***

OK so i just finished working on the car. This is my first time working on it, as before it was my brother.

So i backed MY ls up to my AUNTS ls and used jumper cables to charge her battery.
I then lay on the ground and put my head underneith, and told my aunt to turn the ingition on but dont start the car. So she did so, and i heard the fuel injector activate.

So i then got up and turned the key all the way and that car started. The engine was incredibly loud and made noises but after 5 minutes run time it quieted down.
I let it idle for more time and the heat meter stayed at half (which is about where my car sits so it seems normal)

EDIT: Temperature outside is 3 degress celsius.

However...

It hasn't been driven for couple years... so i began to move it up and down the drive way.
The heat meter went striaght up to the max and the message board wanred me. I IMMEDIATLY shut down the car to avoid damaging the engine.

Diagnosis::
When car idled, the heat meter was staying at half.
When i began to move the car, the heat went straight up to max.
Also note, the main fan in the front did NOT spin faster at all. In fact it was hard to tell if it was spinning at all.

Thats where im at. Car works, but overheats when moved and Fan doesnt spin faster with heat (hard to tell if it spins much at all)
Any thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Hmm I remember reading a while back about some solenoid on the fan pump that goes bad, just thinking of some ideas.
 
Hmm I remember reading a while back about some solenoid on the fan pump that goes bad, just thinking of some ideas.

+1 it activates high speed for the fan and it goes bad. I would also have a coolant flush done.
 
Okay, some terms first.

It was the fuel pump that you heard, not one of the eight fuel injectors on top of the engine.
Everyone else calls the "heat meter" the engine temperature gauge.

There are lots of problems that you may have with the cooling system, but let's start with the one that you have already identified. The fan isn't running. It's not just the main fan, it's the only engine cooling fan.

First things first, look into the engine fan reservoir and see if it has an adequate amount of fluid. What does that fluid look like? It should look like transmission fluid. Make sure that water wasn't added to it by mistake. (If it was, the whole hydraulic system is probably toast.)

If the fluid's okay, then do you see turbulence in it when the engine is running? If not, the pump's not even pumping. If you see movement in the reservoir, then it's time to determine if the fan is turning at all. If it is turning, just not fast enough, then it could be the well known solenoid problem.
 
First things first, look into the engine fan reservoir and see if it has an adequate amount of fluid. What does that fluid look like? It should look like transmission fluid. Make sure that water wasn't added to it by mistake. (If it was, the whole hydraulic system is probably toast.)

If the fluid's okay, then do you see turbulence in it when the engine is running? If not, the pump's not even pumping. If you see movement in the reservoir, then it's time to determine if the fan is turning at all. If it is turning, just not fast enough, then it could be the well known solenoid problem.

Awesome ok ill check the reservoir tomorrow. I wasnt aware the hydrolic fan had its own resevoir, (i mean i understand its hydrolic) but i thought it was shared with the coolant for some reason. Anyone know where the resevoir is located in the engine bay?


Also, what exactly is solenoid and the effect?
 
I'm not sure your overheat has anything to do with the fan to pull air through the radiator based on just putting it into gear to move it in the driveway, but not being there makes it hard to tell and this may be wrong.

I'm wondering if you have a water pump problem or air in coolant problem. Just moving around should not be generating such a high thermal load whereas the thermostat opening up and pushing water through the radiator (without airflow) that engine protection should kick in. Especially if you are at 3°C. If you let it idle for 15-30 minutes so the motor was up to thermal mass, then maybe. But I've done what you stated in my wife's LS without the electric fan kicking in.
 
is there any way to test for a malfunctioning water pump? is there a fuse somewhere thats is being overlooked? i mean do parts like water pumps have fuses?
 

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