My new LSE

Is there a reason why you chose the Mevotechs instead of like Moog or Motorcraft? I bought the Motorcrafts for the front last year.

I chose the Mevotechs because they are greaseable and economic. I wanted to try something that was not expensive to see if it would last and how it performed. So far, so good.

Thanks for those coil cover screws btw. I thanked you in my thread, but just wanted to make sure you got the thanks.

You are welcome!
 
just installed a new front swaybar link from Oreily's...Mastercrafts (or something like that) and they were greaseable
 
i did the other side a few years ago with the same brand and they were not
 
I blacked the window trim with half inch black pinstripe. I got some cheap crap that's peeling off. I will redo it with some 3M stuff soon.

The Mevotech links are doing very good so far

I'm needing/wanting some suspension repair...actually looking into fully rebuilding my front suspension, and i was looking at the mevotech parts on rockauto.

what would be your professional opinion on that?
 
So far they seem to be ok. I havent heard anything about the ball joints. If it were me, I would use as many Moog parts as possible. They seem to have some of the best parts available IMO. When I decide to rebuild my suspension entirely I will be using Moog parts. The Mevotech links were just a temporary deal but they seem to be holding up rather well. I plan to keep my LSE forever so when I do the final suspension rebuild the parts will be top notch parts only, except for the adjustable coil overs which I will not be using.
 
is there a parts list floating around for a complete (and i mean COMPLETE) rebuild front & rear?
 
Ahh mlara,
parts lists don't float, they just kind of lay around.
sometimes people move, carry or throw them but they do not float !

:p
 
is there a parts list floating around for a complete (and i mean COMPLETE) rebuild front & rear?

I dont know about a complete parts list with part numbers but heres a quick list..

Front:
Upper control arm (with upper ball joint)
Lower control arm
Steering knuckle (with lower ball joint)
Inner tie rod ends
Outer tie rod ends
Stabilizer bar
Stabilizer bar bushings
Stabilizer bar links
Wheel bearing (hub assembly)
Coil over shocks

Rear:
Lower control arm
Upper control arm (with upper ball joint)
Adjust links (control arm/tie rods/whatever you call 'em)
Hub assembly (with axle bearing)
Stabilizer bar
Stabilizer bar bushings
Stabilizer bar links
Coil over shocks
 
This is a list of parts I plan on using for my front suspension rebulid. The parts are just over $1000 total.

Upper control arms Am-auto parts EBAY $169.00PR

Lower control arms RockAuto $442.00pr
Moog L#k80735
R#k80734

Inner tie rod ends World suspension EBAY $23.00PR
Mevotech #EV452
#EV453

Outer tie rods Rockauto $80.00pr
MOOG Part L# ES800415
R # ES800414

Lower ball joints Rockauto $138.00PR
MOOG # K500085

Coilover shocks Amazon.com $146.00PR
KYB F#341655

Stabilizer links Rockauto $66.00/pr
MOOG # K80261
 
Finally getting some parts ordered for the spring mod frenzy. I purchased the parts to do Kumbas 320mm brake upgrade. New front and rear rotors (blanks, tired of the drilled and slotted), caliper mounts, Akebono Pads and Stoptech stainless lines for the rear (front is done already).

For the body work...I plan on fixing the crack in the front bumper and maybe filling in the corner lights on the bumper (not decided yet), fixing the crack in the rear valance, gen2 folding mirrors, a Wings West spoiler and the whole car painted (possibly may wait till next spring, time will tell). I am also going to attempt a custom upper an lower grille with black cdc style mesh unless Alax decides to clone the Mclaren grille. I'm also buying RollinLS's old headlights with the angel eyes already in them. I thought about adding some fender vents too....

As for the suspension...I have already done tie rod ends, Front UCAs, front and rear stabilizer links, and front wheel bearings. I am going to rebuild my front suspension this spring and do the rear next spring, with the exception of rear toe links. Those will be getting changed along with rear shocks this spring. The front will get new control arms and knuckles with ball joints, new shocks and custom stabilizer bushings. Energy Suspension bushings dont fit correctly. My stabilizer bar slides back and forth 3/4". I will find a 30mm bushing and make a custom bracket for them if needed.

I had some ideas about the rear spring setup. I am thinking of installing the rear Eibach springs with a spacer in them to keep the car a little higher in the rear. I like the raked look I have but would like a rear spring with less than 172,000 miles on it. I have the rear Eibachs taking up space in my garage so I may as well use them. Im thinking about a 3/4 inch spacer.
 
I think you should adopt me, gives you a second LS to work on!
 
Finally getting some parts ordered for the spring mod frenzy. I purchased the parts to do Kumbas 320mm brake upgrade. New front and rear rotors (blanks, tired of the drilled and slotted), caliper mounts, Akebono Pads and Stoptech stainless lines for the rear (front is done already).

For the body work...I plan on fixing the crack in the front bumper and maybe filling in the corner lights on the bumper (not decided yet), fixing the crack in the rear valance, gen2 folding mirrors, a Wings West spoiler and the whole car painted (possibly may wait till next spring, time will tell). I am also going to attempt a custom upper an lower grille with black cdc style mesh unless Alax decides to clone the Mclaren grille. I'm also buying RollinLS's old headlights with the angel eyes already in them. I thought about adding some fender vents too....

As for the suspension...I have already done tie rod ends, Front UCAs, front and rear stabilizer links, and front wheel bearings. I am going to rebuild my front suspension this spring and do the rear next spring, with the exception of rear toe links. Those will be getting changed along with rear shocks this spring. The front will get new control arms and knuckles with ball joints, new shocks and custom stabilizer bushings. Energy Suspension bushings dont fit correctly. My stabilizer bar slides back and forth 3/4". I will find a 30mm bushing and make a custom bracket for them if needed.

I had some ideas about the rear spring setup. I am thinking of installing the rear Eibach springs with a spacer in them to keep the car a little higher in the rear. I like the raked look I have but would like a rear spring with less than 172,000 miles on it. I have the rear Eibachs taking up space in my garage so I may as well use them. Im thinking about a 3/4 inch spacer.

That's the first time I've heard that happening. Being that you have a sport sway bar, that is the right size from them. My bushings from Energy Suspension works like a charm.
 
Last edited:
That's the first time I've heard that happening. Being that you have a sport sway bar, that is the right size from them. Mine bushings from Energy Suspension works like a charm.

There is a 3/8" gap between the flanges on the stabilizer bar and the bushings. Everytime I look at the bushings the stabilizer bar is in a different position right or left of center. Anyone that has these should check this.
 
hmm, thanks for the heads up Lee, I'll have to mark it and keep an eye on it.
I had meant to get down there and see if they needed any tightening up, maybe even grease them.
 
WOW!!! Lot of work done and lot more to do. Looking forward to seeing it in April and June.
 
Thanks Rollin, It will be ready by STL for sure.

BigRig...
I will be researching stabilizer bar bushings in the next day or two. I will make the brackets if I have to but I WILL find a solution better than ES. Not that ES are bad, they just dont fit well enuf to satisfy me. I'm like that.

I am looking forward to the suspension rebuild. I did this to my 2000 LS before I sold it and it handled like a completely different car. And that was without changing the shocks and springs. I cant wait to feel the difference.
 
Interesting, well you got me thinking and I had a look at my bracket on the swaybar today with a flashlight from down below and I do think mine is sitting in it's place.

Was just looking by dirt markings on either side and don't see anything freshly rubbed off, so I'm to think mine are staying put.

I will be refreshing my shocks both front and rears and only adding new Eibach drops to the front. (now that my wheels are in)
 
I'll be damned Hite, it has indeed moved on the drivers side since I looked at it last.
does seem like it sits flush with the ridge on the passenger side when the driver side is off by about 1/2".

Each end link is offset on each wheel as well. What happens here now ?
This affect alignment and tire wear ? Big deal or not ?

Like I really want to re&re these damn bushings and brackets all over again.

What's the plan Mr. Lee? Show me the way ...
I still have my old GEN I brackets, the ones that did not need to be cut in half for removal like the GEN II does.
 
I'm not sure yet Bigrig...I have been crazy busy and havent had time to search for options yet. This shouldnt affect your alignment because there is no adjustment to be made on the stabilizer bar or links. This will only affect handling in corners and noise over bumps. I will let you know what options I find.
 
Do you think going down to a 28mm bushing would result in more clamping force on the stabilizer bar ? To me the bracket and bushing both seem narrower than the original, may need to be a bit wider. I sure don't recall that much play end to end when I installed.
 
Did alot of work to the LSE this weekend:
Refinished headlights
Repaired a loose angel eye
Installed new upper control arm
Sanded the ASMI intake tube
Installed new woodgrain steering wheel
Installed Custom aluminum degas bottle
Touched up paint on wheels
Washed and waxed

DSCF2411.jpg


DSCF2412.JPG


DSCF2413.jpg


DSCF2418.JPG


DSCF2424.JPG


DSCF2394.jpg


DSCF2396.jpg


DSCF2422.JPG


DSCF2423.JPG


DSCF2398.jpg
 
That is some awsome work! Very jelly of that degas bottle :p

Car is beautiful Hite.
 

Members online

Back
Top