i can tell somebody has replaced the SRB’s before and they had the rear washers the wrong way. Everything is as it should be now with some new parts on top of the control arms. It handles just as smooth as I need it to. No more clunks, pulling, squealing, or harsh bumps.
Replaced:
Hubs (Timken)
Rotors and Pads (NAPA)
Spindle nuts (Dorman)
Fuel Filter (Carquest)
I used a brass cup-brush to clean the bores of the wheels and mating surfaces, Also cleaned the sliding surfaces of the caliper brackets, added grease, and cleaned/greased the caliper slider pins. For the sake of noise prevention, I also greased the piston where it contacts the back of the pad. After 20k miles on my Town Car, my brakes still feel and look great so I give this treatment to all my cars.
The rotors were so shot they had lips bigger than Dolly Parton, and just as chapped.
The hubs left metal dust all over and had lots of play.
Replaced fuel filter, and didn’t have to remove the tire. Just unscrew the fender liner, pull the push-rivets, and use a screw driver to pull the plastic U clips that hold the filter in the hoses. I left the car running after I parked it while I smacked the shut-off switch in the trunk with my hand. It sputtered and died and I relieved the remaining pressure with the schrader valve. Still expect a mess.
The car seems to glide effortlessly now!
I believe the car was tram-lining when the front end would be light (hard acceleration) while crossing lanes (the seams). Since replacing the hubs I haven’t noticed this yet.
I feel GREAT after all of this maintenance, especially since I think most of the components haven’t missed one of the 70k miles this car has.
Questions:
Is there any way to automatically bleed the ABS actuator without getting reamed by shops? And maybe without sliding around.
Is this piece circled in yellow the cruise-Control deactivation switch that was part of a recall? How can I tell it apart from the problem switch vs. the fix?