AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
hey show me your n20 setups, im juicin this week! 150 shot sounds proper!
Nawz I Need The Big Bottle!
- Thread starter AbrahamLincoln
- Start date
MediumD
Dedicated LVC Member
I had a dry 75 shot spraying through the MAF on mine... With a 150 I hope you've got a wet kit. 150's pretty big man, I think you'll be fine, but I hope this car isn't the only way to get to work.
I'm running a Nitrous Express EFI Ford Race system with a purge. I'm running a 100 shot now (wet). I am spraying through a shark nozzle about 4 inches from the intake.
I can run 150, but have never tried it. I was told there is a huge difference between 100 and 150.
I would start with 75 or 100. You can always go up to 150. See how the car responds. DO NOT run over 150. The Nitrous Express kit comes with jets to run 50 - 450 hp shots.
A 100 shot will make you smile.
I am getting ready to remount my system under the hood. I will get some pics when I'm done and post.
I can run 150, but have never tried it. I was told there is a huge difference between 100 and 150.
I would start with 75 or 100. You can always go up to 150. See how the car responds. DO NOT run over 150. The Nitrous Express kit comes with jets to run 50 - 450 hp shots.
A 100 shot will make you smile.
I am getting ready to remount my system under the hood. I will get some pics when I'm done and post.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
yea i got a wet kit with 70 100 and 150. im supposed to mount it a foot before the throttle body. Unbolt the schrader valve and tap into the fuel line that way.
any tips for running the nitrous lines through the firewall - from the trunk to the engine bay?
yea ill start with the smaller jet. as far as tuning goes and supporting mods i was told just go one step colder and have a high flow pump which i already own. So i should be good to go once it gets here tomorrow! I even got a place to fill it up for me 10 minutes away! love it! Any of you guys running a tune with your wet kit?
any tips for running the nitrous lines through the firewall - from the trunk to the engine bay?
yea ill start with the smaller jet. as far as tuning goes and supporting mods i was told just go one step colder and have a high flow pump which i already own. So i should be good to go once it gets here tomorrow! I even got a place to fill it up for me 10 minutes away! love it! Any of you guys running a tune with your wet kit?
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Route your nitrous line outside of the cab of your car. It is SS braid and will be protected as long as you tuck it up under the car nice and tight and secure it well. Much safer than running it through the cab.
As far as tuning for the nitrous goes it will depend on how perfect of an AFR curve you want? For most purposes you will be able to dial your AFR's in while on the bottle with the fuel jetting size. If you want a tabletop flat AFR curve then you will want to consider a dedicated nitrous tune. Also you will want to retard your timing a bit too or if you are running stock timing then just make sure you always use 93 octane fuel so that you do not run into detonation.
With nitrous the basic items that need to be taken care of when tuning for it are AFR and spark advance. There are other attractive options to think about when tuning for nitrous in your car also such as the shift points, rev limiter, shift firmness and a few other things that may become important to you if you really want your car dialed in. A good tune will take care of this.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
i was told to just take my tune off to run the wet kit to have stock timing and throw in one step colder plugs. i have a tune right now, im just going to take it off because it advances the timing where as for the n20 you want to retard it. I have an lms chip and gene said the tune will be fine for n20. Problem is I experienced some wierd issues when i ran 1 step colder plugs with the tune on. i live near a dyno, but the thing is i can't adjust the chip at all so eh ill just remove the chip when im gonna run the juice and throw it on for normal driving, you only get so many sprays per bottle so im going to use it sparingly.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
ok well i dont have the kit yet in hand and it comes with instructions. which im going to follow to the T. How does one get the line outside the cab if the bottle is in the trunk?
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
There are usually a few grommets under the spare tire bay that will allow you to put the nitrous line through and to the underbody of the car. Just make sure it is well secured and that it is not near any moving parts on the suspension.
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
What chip do you have? Is it an SCT 6600 Eliminator chip or something else?
It is going to get to be a pain for you to remove and reinsert that chip all the time. I suggest either finding if the chip you currently have is "flippable" or not. If so then buy the switch and you can flip it to multiple settings on there rather than manually pulling it all the time. If you cannot do that then just have your tuner retard your timing a few degrees in the rpm range that you will be spraying and reburn the chip. At least that way you will be able to retain the other advantages of the tune.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
i have a lms chip. he said the tune is good for n20. its not sct, its a diablosport module. pulling the chip is very easy i can do it in like 3 secs. i believe there is a switch because it has 4 banks. i have to look into that...
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Whether the tune is good for you using it with nitrous or not will all depend on how much spark advance they put into the tune.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
still installing, i lose a fitting hopefully the local stores have it. -4AN male to 1/8th NPT Male connects n20 line to n20 selenoid.
yea im going to pull the chip run 103's gapped at .038 and im running a walboro 255. You just unbolt the schrader valve and bolt in a fitting and bam fuel line in
tuning will come once i get everything working.
anyone with a wet kit, is it cool to mount your nossle in the one resonator location, i have it blocked off with a quick cap. its within a foot and a half i assume and it would be nice to just cut through the rubber and not hack up the stock intake piece.
if i could find my camera ide post pics... .lemme see some engine bay shots of wet kits!
yea im going to pull the chip run 103's gapped at .038 and im running a walboro 255. You just unbolt the schrader valve and bolt in a fitting and bam fuel line in
tuning will come once i get everything working.
anyone with a wet kit, is it cool to mount your nossle in the one resonator location, i have it blocked off with a quick cap. its within a foot and a half i assume and it would be nice to just cut through the rubber and not hack up the stock intake piece.
if i could find my camera ide post pics... .lemme see some engine bay shots of wet kits!
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
any ideas on how to mount the wide open throttle switch, the switch i have is supposed to go behind the drivers pedal, and thats where im going to put it... but its something im trying to work out right now.
I put the arm switch where the cig lighter used to go and used the - and + from it to power the arm. and the activate runs from there to the microswitch behind the drivers pedal, then that runs to the relay in the engine bay viola
I put the arm switch where the cig lighter used to go and used the - and + from it to power the arm. and the activate runs from there to the microswitch behind the drivers pedal, then that runs to the relay in the engine bay viola
I actually put mine on the linkage under the hood. I did my arming switch the same way as yours. What kind of kit did you buy?
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Do the WOT switch off of the TB arm. In a case where your throttle cable gets fubar your WOT switch will still only spray when the TB is WOT versus the pedal itself. Makes the system just a touch safer.
Do you plan to do a RPM window switch too?
Do you plan to do a RPM window switch too?
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
got most of it installed today, filled the bottle. Any ideas when running the n20 feed line from the bottle all the way to the engine bay, i have it run through the trunk through the rubber hole, but as far as mounting it to the body. I could use some suggestions
its a dynotunenitrious.com wet kit... its real nice real quality. It took me a long time to install it I guess cuz i am overly anal, and its for a sn95 mustang. Its pretty straight forward but mounting everything perfect is a pain, its a very tedious process.
i drilled the hole from my nozel fairly close to the throttle body because i was concerned about puddling, it says to be within one foot of TB. I eyeballed it but when it came to attatch the hoses i didnt realize how deep that TB sits with the intake tube... so i had to butcher the wiper cowl a bit to have a painless fit, in the process before cutting into it i broke a jet for the 100 hp and then i dropped the 70 hp jet on top of the intake manifold sea of no return -
no i dont have a window switch, is it worth it. i figure ill gun it and hit the arm when i want to use it so i know im wot and after 3500 myself. I thought putting on the TB arm would be a good idea. But I really wasnt quite sure how to get to it because of how obcsure a location it is with the intake tube on, so i just did what the kit said, i rigged it up near the foot pedal. so i already had all my wiriing for that all plotted out.
i would much rather have it on the tb arm so but i dont want to take the intake tube off again - i got everythign situated and i want to get to using the kit. I have the 150hp jets in right now.
Can you buy jets at most parts stores?
its a dynotunenitrious.com wet kit... its real nice real quality. It took me a long time to install it I guess cuz i am overly anal, and its for a sn95 mustang. Its pretty straight forward but mounting everything perfect is a pain, its a very tedious process.
i drilled the hole from my nozel fairly close to the throttle body because i was concerned about puddling, it says to be within one foot of TB. I eyeballed it but when it came to attatch the hoses i didnt realize how deep that TB sits with the intake tube... so i had to butcher the wiper cowl a bit to have a painless fit, in the process before cutting into it i broke a jet for the 100 hp and then i dropped the 70 hp jet on top of the intake manifold sea of no return -
no i dont have a window switch, is it worth it. i figure ill gun it and hit the arm when i want to use it so i know im wot and after 3500 myself. I thought putting on the TB arm would be a good idea. But I really wasnt quite sure how to get to it because of how obcsure a location it is with the intake tube on, so i just did what the kit said, i rigged it up near the foot pedal. so i already had all my wiriing for that all plotted out.
i would much rather have it on the tb arm so but i dont want to take the intake tube off again - i got everythign situated and i want to get to using the kit. I have the 150hp jets in right now.
Can you buy jets at most parts stores?
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Securing the nitrous line to the bottom of car: Go to hardware store and look in the electrical section for little electrical securing clamps. All they are is thinner gauge metal bent over in a loop with driller holes where you can slip a screw through. Then get some self tapping sheetmetal screws and you are set. I suggest getting the ones dipper in rubber to prevent metal on metal chaffing.
I consider the window switch a vital part in keeping your car somewhat safe when spraying. You may have good timing but the switch is much more accurate. Here are a few items a window switch helps with:
1) Limits bottom rpm when nitrous comes on. This means less chance of fuel puddling due to it not letting you jump the gun and spray below X amount of rpms.
2) Limits the top end rpm when the nitrous sprays to which is good so that you do not accidentally over-rev the engine and still be spraying nitrous too. This will save an engine if the transmission goes south and there happens to be a big spike in engine rpms before you can react.
3) Better timing of when shot comes on. Means more repeatability.
4) One less item to screw with when racing. Just flip the master arm switch and you are good to go.
If you do the window switch the activating portion of the wires will be wired in series with your WOT switch and master arm switch. This way all three have to be activated for your nitrous to spray; which means everything has to be functioning correctly to spray. That is a good thing.
You cannot buy nitrous system jets at any local parts stores. If they offer anything it will be a special order item at best. Just go to Jeg's or Summit and pick some up off there. Also it would be good if you have a nitrous bottle pressure gauge too. Those gauges cost about $40-$50 depending on brand and will be another item that is good to have in a proper nitrous system. After all, spraying through jets rated at 900 psi with an actual pressure of 1200 psi is not a good thing.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
very good info... i guess ill call dynotune tomorrow and complain about jet that broke - hopefully i can get hooked up with new jets - they cant be too costly. ide like to get a purge "kit" and def some guages. i hate not being able to see the fuel pressure n20 pressure or a/f.
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
see i plan on going wot in first - and spraying as soon as my 1-2 shift is done because of my gearing (4.10) i got no problem flicking the arm while being wot but for the future def be a good investment for "worry free" nitrous runs. guages def are essential i should have them already. and i wanna purge on all the cars that sleep on me!
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
If you want to only spray from 2nd gear onward and still want to do it with some consistency then get a progressive controller. I ran an FJO controller for 1.5 years on the wet system I ran in the LS before I did the turbo. It is a solid little unit and was well worth the $210 I paid for it. It has allot of great control features if you are looking to possibly do something like that in the future. Nitrous shot (power) ramping, window switched, WOT switched, gear lockouts, time based and RPM based modes, and can control two channels (aka dual nitrous stages). I had the option to lock 1st gear out so that I only sprayed in 2nd and beyond. Sounds like it might be something you would want to look into if you want consistency in control of your shot. By the way, getting something like this controller will replace the WOT switch and RPM window switch so you can save money by not buying those...
+ 1 on the progression controller I was running that in my SB fiero....saved a lot of headaches....well and motors
Run the Nitrous SS line and tie it to/around the Fuel line of the car After all the fuel line is Crash tested and the safest route available.
My Buddie just took out a few valves on his mark 8 with a zex kit.. Went to purge it and somehow ignited...
Run the Nitrous SS line and tie it to/around the Fuel line of the car After all the fuel line is Crash tested and the safest route available.
My Buddie just took out a few valves on his mark 8 with a zex kit.. Went to purge it and somehow ignited...
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
ya i also need guages... i ran it a couple times 150 shot its amaaaaaaazing, no worries about leaning
150 shot wet, walboro 255 and 103 copper autolites gapped at .038 and took off the lms tune. kinda feels like v8 vtec when you hit it.
150 shot wet, walboro 255 and 103 copper autolites gapped at .038 and took off the lms tune. kinda feels like v8 vtec when you hit it.
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
That system must have been setup wrong. The purge totally bypasses the regular nitrous solenoid activation with its own circuit. Most purges have their own dedicated purge solenoid though some of the newer big nitrous solenoids do have a purge function built into them. Hmmm.