Need All the Help I Can!

cool, thanks ray & JP i appreciate it. i just what to make sure on this, but does it matter what type of terminals i get? will it fit our cars? or do you have to pick a certain one.
 
JoeyLincolnMK8 said:
cool, thanks ray & JP i appreciate it. i just what to make sure on this, but does it matter what type of terminals i get? will it fit our cars? or do you have to pick a certain one.
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ANY aftermarket DECENT car stereo battery terminal will work. I chose those ones because of the technology involved in the clamping force that is applied to the terminal itself. If you look the terminal has 2 allen head bolts that secure it to the terminal. There is not many, if any other terminals out there that has THAT much clamping force on the battery terminal itself. That is why I went with those ones, and Stinger is a VERY good company. :Beer
 
excellent point ray, yeah i did notice the 2 allen head bolts. looks like i found some new battery terminals. thanks!!!
 
ok guys here is the deal. this morning car did not start. took the battery got it recharged again, and replaced my alternator with the orginal which i know works. got the battery back car started up fine. i let it sit for 10 mins, then i shut it down. then i tried to start her up again, and it was turning but wont start, tried again... samething. now it won start. i felt my upper intake manifold thing is hot as all hell. i do not know what the hell is up. im about to freaking kill someone!
 
You're gonna need the voltage readings during cranking. I suspect the deep discharge has done the battery in. You want to see 9.6 volts or higher during cranking. I like to see 10 plus, 11 plus is even better.

Also you should do a charging test(presuming you get it running and the battery is fully charged). Testing your charging system quickly with a good digital voltmeter (again assuming a charged battery):

1. Test battery voltage with engine off. Check at battery terminals at clean terminal or clamp, not the bolt or nut. Record voltage. This is your battery's standing voltage.

2. Start engine & run at 1500 RPM. With no other load (doors closed? Underhood light off? Auto headlights off?) - record voltage. Voltage should be higher but not by more than 2 volts. This is your charging voltage without load.

3. Turn on heater or AC to MAX along with turning on highbeam headlamps. Increase RPMs to 2000 RPM. Voltage should be a minimum of 0.5 volts above your standing battery voltage. This is your charging voltage with load.

Normal could be 12.6 VDC standing voltage, 14.4 VDC charging voltage without load and 13.2 VDC charging voltage with load. :wrench
 
*update* ok guys, i have got BIG problems with the car. towed it to the dealer, they took a look at it and said, the alternator overcharged the car and fried my IMRC module, and ECU...... AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!! now im looking at $918.00 for everthing!!! you know i was always firm believer of if it is not broke do not fix it. all i wanted was a higher amp alternator for my system, and this crap happens! ill keep you guys posted but i also think my SCT chip might be also fried as well.
 
i mean, i felt like a complete fool at the dealership today. i spoke to the guy (who suppose to be the #1 tech there) and i said, after i charged my battery she started up fine. he said the car does not start, i have a charger hooked up on it, and all it does is turning and nothing. i almost punched him in his face! i told him grab a freaking good battery and throw it in there i bet it will start. he said no it wont because you are not getting any spark, and no fuel responce. somehow the alt. over charged the electrical system. so whatever.... i just hope that my SCT chip is not fried. so all in all, i am playing the waiting game!
 
I thought you had it running? Then it wouldn't start? Now the PCM is cooked? IF so, make sure you ask to get the used parts.
 
yeah after getting the battery recharged both times, she would start. the first i recharged the battery she started up fine, then the next morning nothing happened when i turned the key. the second time i recharged the battery, i also removed the cobra alternator and replaced it with the one i orginally had in there, she started up fine, i let it sit for about 10 mins, i shut her down, then tried to start her up but all she does it crank, crank, crank! this morning she still cranks. so i do not know what the funk and wagnalls happened.
 
JoeyLincolnMK8 said:
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!! now im looking at $918.00 for everthing!!!
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I feel your Pain I just got done buying 2 HID headlights from Ford dealer I spent $1070 on headlights if I didn't work I Ford Dealer I'd be :q:q:q:qED without my discount $764 A peice thats without tax I'd be looking at $1600 on light's.

Not to mention I had to get a new rim not to long ago luckly I found one at the junk yard.
Oh ya I'm still in Highschool.:give
 
JoeyLincolnMK8 said:
oh yeah, JP why should i make sure to ask them for the used parts????
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Call me a cynic, but I have been burned on electrical parts replacements. I'm not confident anything was 'burnt up' in your case - especially if it started - twice! Did you ever get a 'check charging system' warning? If the alternator overcharged enough to toast parts, you should have.

If they're saying the PCM is toast, I would want the old one. I would try it in another Mark... and if it runs... :Bang

We're missing something, I don't know what, but I think the dealer is missing it too... but if they replace enough parts on your dime, I'm sure they'll figure it out. :slam

Just a thought, has anyone checked the power relays?
 
i did indeed got the "check charging system" message when i got stuck. also i checked the fuses and the relays, they all looked good. my situation is very strange, the tech even actually did say (shocker) if we had another mark here we can use it for swaping.
 
JoeyLincolnMK8 said:
... also i checked the fuses and the relays, they all looked good.
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New relays are cheap assurance. Intermittent problems with a fuel pump relay or PCM relay can lead to many needlessly replaced parts.
 
driller said:
New relays are cheap assurance. Intermittent problems with a fuel pump relay or PCM relay can lead to many needlessly replaced parts.
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but i hear the fuel pump working when i turn the key. i told that to the tech, he is like "no what you are hearing is the fan kick in, which not suppose to do that". then later when i left, i thought to myself maybe it is kicking in because of the SCT chip, turning the aux fan on early???
 
*update* car runs fine now! guys want to know the problem??? it was my SCT chip! yeppers, it was throwing codes saying the PCM & the IMRC was shot, oh yeah more importantly NOT STARTING!!!!!!!!!!!!! someone over there is going to be choked! ok i am picking it up tomorrow and saving about $1k... yaaaay me! thanks everyone for helping, you guys are the best... i do not care what joey says about you!....lol j/k
 
JoeyLincolnMK8 said:
... it was my SCT chip! yeppers, it was throwing codes saying the PCM & the IMRC was shot, oh yeah more importantly NOT STARTING!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Yeah, I forgot you usually can't scan codes with a chip. That's what threw the tech a loop for sure.

Now - are you saying if you install the chip, the car won't start?? :mad:
 
driller said:
Yeah, I forgot you usually can't scan codes with a chip. That's what threw the tech a loop for sure.

Now - are you saying if you install the chip, the car won't start?? :mad:
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yep, i have a theory on what happened. i did indeed had a overcharge, the alternator ate itself, and shot a surge to the PCM, but instead of knocking out my actual computer, i think it went and hit the SCT chip. so from that i think the program got screwed up somehow. i have to go to the shop i got the chip, and have them check it out. but i defiantly feel something different with the car, like some sort of hesitation... i had these denso spark plug sitting here for about 2 weeks, so i just had them installed thinking i might have so kind of misfire... due to all that crap that happened. installed them, and still the car feels like something is not right, it seems like a lack of power, and my temp gauge seems to jump to the "o". i changed my t-stat to a 180 about alil over a month ago, so it can not be the t-stat, fan is running fine, and when i had the t-stat changed, i also had the coolant completely flushed. the thing that is also weird is my panel dimmer does not dim... it only works when i turn the headlights on. i just hope i did not fry anything electrical. so my car is running... but not running the same. :mad:
 
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