Need help ASAP, Engine fill tower problem

lbooth77

LVC Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
Location
Huntsville
So, while bleeding the cooling system, the engine fill cap was not screwed on tight enough, so it was leaking. I was searching for the sound and when I realized it was the engine fill cap, I tapped it and it broke off some of the plastic piece that the cap screws onto. I need a new one of those (the plastic piece that the cap screws onto). Where would I find it aftermarkt and what is the official name. It's the piece the engine fill cap screws onto right in front of the intake. I have a 1st gen V8. Thanks,
 
You should be able to order the factory part from Max. I don't know about aftermarket.
 
You can get the aluminum version for the Jag motor from Rock Auto: part NCE2247ADKIT
 
Oddball or anyone who can help

I got the part and I'm in the middle of changing it. I have the upper radiator hose, thermostat and housing off and the front two bolts from the bottom of the tower off. How did you get the back two off? The intake won't let my socket fit on the back and my ratcheting wrench doesn't have enough travel to turn it. any thoughts/experience. Thanks.

1st Gen V8
 
You need a set of swivel sockets to get those. They are low profile. You might be able to get an angled closed end box wrench on it.
 
I got the drivers side rear bolt off, but the pass is unscrewed almost all the way, but it is still hitting the intake and it seems like it wouldn't come out anyway b/c the intake is too low. Any tips on how to get it off. I used the swivel socket to break it loose and hand turned it until it hit the intake. The driver side came off b/c I accidentally bent some of the plastic, a very small amount on the intake. Do I need to take off the intake to finish this. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
I've had the intake off for other reasons when working on this, so I can't speak first hand.

Other folks have reported success. Depending on what exactly it's hitting, you may be able to clearance the intake.
 
I am sure the OP has got this done by now, but for anyone looking in the future, I just removed mine. For the rear 2 bolts, I had to use a nut driver on a scewdriver handle to get a good bite on the head, everything else was to large in dia so it when at it at an angle and started to strip thee heads. The tourque required to get them off spilt the side of the thin driver handle where the shank of the drive head goes in:( I used long needle nose pliers to loosen them the rest of the way after I broke them loose and for the last few turns had to grab the bolt by the threads(gently) to turn it, do to the tight clearances up between the head of the bolt and the manifold. Total time to get the piece off 30 min. The pic is of the bolts sitting about 1/8 of a turn in without the piece in place, just so you can see how close the clearance is.

IMG00854.jpg
 

Members online

Back
Top