Need help trouble shoot ride control puzzle

Turn off the suspension switch in the trunk. Remove the tire and jack up the corner..
Turn the steering wheel to the right (to work on the driver side).

On my car, the spring is basically a rubber tube with thick, heavy plastic plugs fastened to each end.

The top has an additional plastic ring around it. The ring has notches around it's outer perimeter. When that ring is turned and it's notches line up with matching notches in the upper suspension plate, the ring and the upper part of the spring can move downwards, away from the plate.

The top of the air bag is now freed.

[My top-ring may have been prevented from accidentally turning due to vibration by something.. i forget what it was.. a metal tab perhaps. Did something locked it in place? This is all from memory.]

The bottom "plug" has a little mushroom shaped knob sticking out of it's bottom. That knob goes through a hole in the lower spring support. A square metal spring-clip slips under that knob and locks it to the support plate. (This knob and clip can be seen if you lay on the floor and look up at it.)
Remove the clip with a screwdriver, and the bottom of the air bag is free.

If the bag is empty it can be squeezed and pushed out of the suspension.
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Note that one must first remove the air line and solenoid, and deflate the bag.

Remove the solenoid's 2-wire connection plug, and the air line.
The solenoid has a spring clip that prevents it from turning. Remove that clip. Then, if you turn the solenoid counterclockwise (?) about 30 degrees, it will (suddenly!) pop out part way, hit a shoulder (preventing it from flying out and knocking you unconscious) and, being loose, a whoosh of air remaining in the bag will escape around it. Then the solenoid can be turned further and removed. ( it's a bit startling the first time, but safe and harmless.)

If your leak emptied the bag and there's no air pressure remaining, this won't be nearly as exciting as it is with a healthy bag...
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So, the only tools mine needed is a screwdriver or small pry bar to un-clip the bottom clip, and perhaps a pair of pliers to remove the solenoid clip. And I recall using a small channel-lock pliers to grab and turn the solenoids, which can be a bit difficult to turn by hand.

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Actually, that top plastic ring collects road dirt and grit, and mine was stuck. I had to knock it with a hammer and screwdriver back and forth a couple times to get it loose so it would turn..

Replacement is a reversal of those things..
That's about it on my car. Remove and replace is a leisurely hour..

Describe the "hub tools" you mentioned.. Hub as in wheel hub? Remove the wheels and bearings? I have no idea what that's about.
 
I completed air bag install

Hey thanks for the input. I hadn't checked this forum before tackling the job on Saturday.

I went to the Lincoln dealer and to a Napa store and purchased the "Special Tools."

The kid (daughter's boyfriend that owns a '86 Mark 7) came over we got it done. From taking off wheel to putting it back on after installation, was about one hour. We followed the factory manual, including cleaning and clearing oil, dirt, etc

Decided we'll keep the Continental and the kid is going to work with me to restore a '67 Corvair Monza project, for my daughter. It's a better fit for a young lady to learn the basics about operating and maintaining a vehicle.

Anyway, the car is operating. The wife and I used it to go to church, yesterday. Notice some unusual. The car did not feel to us like a special ride. The wife said the caddy has a smoother ride. Don't know how Modesto is fairing, but here in the east side of Sacramento County, the roads are not well maintained.

The Lincoln did not seem to absorb some of the imperfections that I have been reading that makes Lincolns unique. This is not to imply the car was a rough ride, because it wasn't.

After we parked, I looked at the car and noticed it was raised rather high. The wheel wells were a good eight inches above the tires. This was consistent on all four.

Any thoughts?
 
Special Service Tools

[Describe the "hub tools" you mentioned.. Hub as in wheel hub? Remove the wheels and bearings? I have no idea what that's about.


1. C-Frame and Clamp Assembly
2. Hub Remover / Installer Adapter
3. Front Hub Remover / Installer
4. Tie Rod End Remover Adapter
5. Front Bearing Remover
6. Wheel Bolt Adapters
7. T86P-1104-A Tool Set - (consist of: Two Stud adapter, T86P-1104-A2, Front Bearing Sapcer, T86P-110-A3 Bearing Installer, T86P-1104-A4 Bearing Dust Seal Installer).

8. T86P-5493-A Tool Set (T86P-5493-A 1 Insulator Installation Tool, T86P-5493-A2 Bushing Removal Tools, T86P-5493-A4 Bushing Installer, T86P-5493-A5 Insulator Removal Tool.

9. Shaft Protectors
10. Front Hub Puller
11. 3-Jaw Puller
12. Heavy Duty Riveter
13. Tie Rod End Remover



Much of the basics, I already owned. The phrase "Special Service Tools" is what Lincoln refers to this list in the factory manual.
 
You didn't actually need or use any of those tools for the air springs... correct?

As for the special ride, my car is nowhere near a smooth ride. It also makes some sort of clunking noise they tell me is due to struts. I bought originals from Ford/Lincoln but have yet to install them.

Roads down here are about the same.. I keep my tires near 32 PSI for the sake of highway fuel mileage, and hard tires do not help smooth things out.

I once rode in a caddy few decades ago and the smooth ride is about the only thing i remember.. nice.. and my Mark7 ride doesn't compare.
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8 inches? You sure?
I just grabbed a ruler and the top surface of my front tires is 3 inches below the chrome trim on the fender.. which won't do you much good since you've got a Continental. But about 3 inches seems like plenty.

However, there are times when i park and look back at the car and notice it's way up there.

The suspension is active even with the ignition off (I think it's like 30 minutes). Sometimes passengers can leave the car, and the computer fails to notice it. So, the car rises when all that weight is removed, and stays too high. The manual (or the Owner's Manual in the glove box) will detail how that suspension is expected to operate. Some lower the whole car at freeway speeds.. some raise the passenger side when parked so doors don't hit the curb.
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And there are those height sensors.. two in front and one (in the middle) in back. Mine are adjustable for three heights.. indentations. One "notch" will raise (or lower) a fender about one and a half inches. I believe factory default setting is in the middle of the range.

I'd put some miles on it, familiarize myself with it.. get accustomed to the car's personality before making changes..
 
Clunking noise is more likely to a shock/strut broken mount or a sway bushing maybe even a sway link. I didn't notice what car you had but the 95-02 continentals have 2 horizontally mounted shocks 1 near each rear wheel. I had these go bad and experienced a clunk until i replaced them.
 
Use of Lincoln recommended tools

You didn't actually need or use any of those tools for the air springs... correct?


Well, now you've called me on it :D Daughter's Mark 7 boyfriend did most of the work and I assisted and learned. By the way, he seemed to know that trick you posted above about getting the new bag warm. He put a clean sheet of newspaper on the driveway and laid the bag out for a bit, then turned it over, and then bent over in both directions before installing.

So to answer your questions, he used all the tools as it called for it by the manual. He did say he wished he had the set when he replaced his bag.
 
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Air Ride still not resolved

...height sensors.. two in front and one (in the middle) in back. Mine are adjustable for three heights.. indentations. One "notch" will raise (or lower) a fender about one and a half inches. I believe factory default setting is in the middle of the range.


Arggggggg! :mad:

Drove the Lincoln to work, yesterday. Some of my fellow employees chided me about my “tricked out jacked up Lincoln.” It is so high, you can see the air bag behind the wheel.

In the morning I noticed passenger side down. No space between car and tire. The remaining three were jacked.

Started the car and watched the down side lift to level.

When I got home last night, I got out of the car and wouldn't you it know it, it did the same dog-gone thing it was doing to my kid when she had it -- As soon as I shut the door, I heard a soft "whooooosh" sound from the front passenger side and it drops slightly and by morning, back to body sitting on tire.

I’m driving a high riding Lincoln with an identity crisis (it thinks it’s an all terrain vehicle. Kid you not, looks I’m going to the Sierra’s for an expedition.)



Specs:

1994 Lincoln Continental - Executive Series

Purchased in 2007. Replaced one rear bag that summer.

October 2008 replaced front passenger bag.

September 2009 replaced front driver side bag, compressor, and dryer.



When we did the soap-water test, I checked the airlines, including in the engine area and no apparent air leak.

I kept my ear focused on listening for the compressor while driving to work this morning. I did not hear it come on during the 40-minute drive. When I arrived, all four were still in the all-terrain mountain climbing position.
 
Update: Air Ride issue Resolved - culprit was the valve

I figured out what was caused the excessive height and then right front drop over night on my Continental.

I'd given up and had the car for sale but no takes when they saw her system jacking itself up too high with the right corner down.

But then it hit me out of the blue. Hey, if air is only supposed to go in but is gushes out when ignition is off, it must be the ball in the valve is malfunctioning, which means its opening for air to exit the bag. With a bad valve, the compressor was working like a junkyard dog to keep inflated and it was throwing everything off, I deduced.

I had been looking at it all wrong. I thought I was seeing a car that would woosh and drop after I got out of car and shut the door. But I see that it was probably wooshing while driving and the compressor trying to keep up burned out.

Purchased a new valve, installed it (yes myself) this morning, and Voila! :D I got a fully functioning Continental that is level on all fours.

Took her off the market and drove her around all day and she' gliding down the road smoothly. The problem of the rough ride is gone which I attribute to the car is now level (no longer see the airbag behind the wheel).

So, now that I got a better feel for Lincoln air suspension, I would say to anyone who hasn't done it yet, be patience, get a factory manual, and if the air lines or bags don't exhibit leaks, check out the valves.

Thanks to Eleese for all his education. Much helpful.
 
One important thing I should have mentioned was the air suspension's self-diagnostic routine. It exists on my Mark VII and Continentals probably have it as well.

From memory... To initiate the tests, you first turn the ignition key to the ON position for five seconds, then turn it off. Leave the driver door open, go to the trunk and ground a short "pigtail" wire hanging off the trunk suspension-switch.

Get back in the driver seat and turn the ignition ON. The Check Suspension warning lamp will start blinking steadily, indicating the system is ready.

To initiate the first test (1st of 10), close and open the driver door. Lamp will blink once.. pause.. once.. pause.

To initiate the second test, close and open the door again. Lamp will blink twice.. pause.. twice.. pause.

Search your shop manual for detailed instructions.
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Anyway, the tests operate each component individually as well as in combination.

For instance, one of the tests isolates and opens and closes just the front driver side solenoid. You can hear it go click-click-click.. once per second.

Another test might pump up only one corner of the car, and then let it fall... That test would run the pump AND operate the pump's vent solenoid AND the solenoid at the wheel.

Run the whole series of tests, apply a little logic, and any bad component can be identified.
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"Purchased a new valve, installed it (yes myself) this morning, and Voila!"

sorry i didn't mention this test routine, but it slipped my mind. It might have enabled you to find that bad solenoid valve much earlier.
 

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