Need help with overheating. I'm Making Progress

98lincmk7lsc said:
I don't know if I would trust that scanner...


Anyway, sometimes you need to burp the system MANY times. I also recommend getting the front up on some jack stands or ramps while you're doing this.


If you need a new crossover cap let me know. I've got a whole bunch of freshly powdercoated stock ones. Unfortunately, I don't have any more of the stainless steel ones I used to make/sell. :(
Click to expand...

What do you get for one of those crossovers and what colors do you have?
 
Ok I took the crossover cap off to let air out of the system, and at first bubbles were coming out every once in a while, but when the temp hit around 195f (according to my scanner), bubbles started coming out vigoruosly, and started shooting out air and coolant. Is this normal?
 
Uh oh. When I raised the rpm coolant shoot out more. I'll put head problems into the equation. I also hear fizzing from the reservoir cap. Is that normal?
 
Sounds like you are getting the air pocket out of the car when the thermostat opens. Did you get a funnel into the crossover tube and fill that up with some coolant? You need to have something in there to take the place of the air.
 
Yea I had a funnel and I am adding coolant in there, but I didn't exactly fit pefectly over the crossover tube, so I leaks over the side. I noticed the the coolant in the reservoir tank is getting lower everytime I try to bleed it. So it normal for coolant to shoot out when RPMS go up?

I did this same procedure when the car was on the ground, but it seem worse when the car is on jack stands.
 
Just pulled the T-Stat (Moderate PITA), and this is what it looked like. Coolant was cold. It's a MotoRad T-Stat

Edit just tested it by boiling, and it open, and closed

2012-02-05184702.jpg
 
DonDotta said:
Just pulled the T-Stat (Moderate PITA), and this is what it looked like. Coolant was cold. It's a MotoRad T-Stat

Edit just tested it by boiling, and it open, and closed

2012-02-05184702.jpg
Click to expand...

What temperature number is stamped into the bottom of that thermostat? If you flip it upside down there will be a number stamped into the copper slug inside of the hole.

I recently had a problem when I purchased a 180 degree motorad thermostat from autozone, my box was the right part number, my car is tuned for it, the part looked correct, the receipt was for the right part, I installed it correctly and bled/burped it correctly, but after it was installed I couldn't shake an overheating issue.

I burped and bled the cooling system countless times each with little or no help. Eventually I got pissed off and bought a high flow 170 degree unit for a cobra. When I removed my newish thermostat I found stamped into the copper on the bottom 200 degrees. So the problem the whole time was that the part that looked correct was in the wrong box and was rated for the wrong temp.

Definitely worth looking at while it's out!
 
Well I gotta take it off again anyway, I didn't put the O-ring on properly, and its leaking :(. I let you know what I find out.
 
DonDotta said:
Just looked under the thermostat, and it said 195*. Should I use an 180* t-stat
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Mark VIII's come stock with a 188* t-stat. If the one you took out is a 195*, it's the wrong Tstat for the car. I would think a 170* would be a nice cooler tstat if you want to go that direction.

Stock 188* Thermostats:
Stant 14089
Motorcraft RT1085
 
I just put in a 180* Tstat from NAPA, bled the system, and it seems to have fixed the problem. I drive it around for about 5 mins, and the temp stayed between 186-190*. When I gave it a mid throttle push, the temp stayed the same (at around 188, and go up crazy like it did last time). Do I need to do anymore further test or am I good to go?


Thanks
 
DonDotta said:
I just put in a 180* Tstat from NAPA, bled the system, and it seems to have fixed the problem. I drive it around for about 5 mins, and the temp stayed between 186-190*. When I gave it a mid throttle push, the temp stayed the same (at around 188, and go up crazy like it did last time). Do I need to do anymore further test or am I good to go?


Thanks
Click to expand...

Sounds like you've got 'er fixed! Check the coolant level after you drive it a while (after it cools) to make sure it doesn't need a bit more.

Congrats! :cool:
 
Thanks for all the help guys. You guys saved me loads of money again. Was there a special way I had to bleed the system for the heater core. I had the HVAC on 90 blowing hot
 
As long as you get hot air, there is coolant flowing thru the heater core. Just keep monitoring the overflow tank, and fill as necessary.
 
Oh GRRREAT!! My heat is now not working. I had it working great yesterday. I guess it's an air bubble still stuck in the system. Darn, I thought I got all of it out. It didn't even suck anymore coolant into the system. I got the heat working by opening the Blend door, could it have gotten suck again?

On the other hand, I drove the car for about 20 minutes today, and it didn't even go over 194*. When I gave it a punch, the temperature actually dropped form 190* to 186*. Is that a sign of a good running cooling system.
 
Is your blend door broken? I heard you can just push lever with your finger by dropping glovebox? Right gen2 guys??
 
I already push down the blend door lever, it got the heat working yesterday. It's air in the system because when I turn the heat on and off, the temp fluctuate a little. I thought I properly removed the air from system
 
Sometimes you just need to bleed it a second or third time. Just give it another bleed as these things can be difficult. Glad you got it though.
 
UPDATE: I took my car today on a 50-mile drive, and the car didn't overheat. However, my heat stopped working again. What else could be causing this problem? Maybe Ill try bleeding the system again.
 
When you turn your heat on and get heat out of vents yes of course engine temp will drop abit because the heater core is really just a tiny radiator. I bleed my system once when ever I do mods and its good to go.
 
I just burp the system again (by rock the Sh*t out of it), and it took in more coolant, and the heat is working again (somewhat). I heard that you can drive over hard surfaces for a while and that will get the air to come out, but how do I do that. Do I unscrew the crossover cap slightly and drive?
 
I lost heat again!!! Blend door is open to let heat in. it works good after burping, but after letting it sit and driving out for a while, the heat goes away. What's going on?
 
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