never ending warping rotor

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journeyman291

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Ok I am at my wits end. My 97 Mark V111 (147k)is warping front rotors at a unbelievable rate. In the last 2 years I had brakes replaced by a local garage twice within 5 thousand miles each time with new rotors from NAPA (their best Chinese rotors available, although am using cheap"oem" pads) Now for the third time I personally replaced rotors again, replaced calipers,flushed brake fluid and had car in shop to check run-out. Now it has been less than 300miles and I can start to feel wheel shimmy and shutter in brake pedal when braking on a down hill. Still using same pads as they are not cracked or worn hardly at all. Did the post rotor break-in ceremony too.:confused::mad:
 
Did ya lube the caliper guide pins last time? Could be more bad calipers thou.. if you got reman calipers... then basically you got some that were used, cleaned off, and resold. Need to replace the square cut seal and dust boot ... and check to make sure that your rears are working properly.. lack of rear brake function = over working the fronts

Booster could also be applying constant pressure keeping the brakes slightly applied but not enough to feel while driving, this will make your brakes maintain built up heat, and then when you actually use the brake they get even hotter.

And stop using CHINA steel brake rotors >.<
 
The ones that are made everywhere else

Wagner, Bendix...
 
What did they use to tighten the lug nuts? My wifes old van got new rotors damn near every oil change.
The shop would do the oil change and rotate the tires.. Overtighten the lug nuts, by the time she would get home she would tell me the brakes were pulsing when she slowed down and the steering wheel would shake a little.
I'd tell her to take it back in the morning and get it fixed.
 
lbs

Lincoln book say; Lug nuts==85 to 105 lbs. I do 105 with proper tool TORQUE WRENCH Orginal rotors on my 95 with 119k miles. Thermo quiet pads. Glazing on the rotors will cause pulsing. I clean my rotors (both sides) with 80 grit then fine grit emery cloth. About 2 years and still work great Wife waits untill last min to use the brakes. My 98 does'nt need it but it's getting Thermo-Quiet's in the spring. Your shop is using an impact wrench around 140 lbs, and chances are they are not the same lbs. A lot of these guys think they're in the pit at Nascar when you put an impact wrench in their hands :D
 
Yes I did lube the guide pins and had lug nuts torqued. I checked on the possibility it might be the brake pressure differential valve but as it it s part of the ABS system and there is only 3 available in the US at a cost of $3200.00 from Ford it might be time to scrap out my beloved LSC if I cant get it fixed. Have already replaced shocks with coil suspension, which by the way sucks campared to air.I usally get from 60-80k from front brakes. In fact my Chevy Duramax has 140k with original shoes!As far has Chinese rotors, could not get usa ones without special ordering and has this was under warrenty...I mean what's up with over-tighning lug nuts? If rotors were made worth the scrap this wouldn't be an issue either . Where's Ralph Nader when we need him?
 
i have had my rotors i believe they are brake motice drilled and slotted. got em off flea bay a little more then a year ago. they worked great (till recently) the only problem i have is they have started to glaze over. hell the pads that came with them are just a little over half worn as well. Im not sure what you guys do but when i put on new rotors I take the car and drive about 40 and put the breaks on then 40 brakes 40 breaks 60 brakes and then i park it for an hour or so. then i do it again. maybe im retarded which is very likely considering the amount of dope that is ingested. but seasoning your rotors can help prevent warping if done correctly.
 
T.O- I just bought some drilled/slotted from Brake Motive, they're still in the box....after the fuel pump and o.f.a gask I'm gonna upgrade front's to 13''..I'm not familiar w/ 'glazed over'..what up?
 
I have been using Napa's Ultra Premium rotors on both the Marks, and a Taurus.( UP 86749) @ $65 each. They come with a special anti rust treatment and are heavy duty. In the past I would have only used Bendix. I also use Bendix Ceramix pads. Break in (seating) is paramount to a pulse free brake. Visit Stop Tech and read up on their info on brake pulse.

I have also seen pulsing that was caused or exaggerated by worn out strut rod bushings that would allow the wheels to move forward and back.
 
dnsherrill said:
T.O- I just bought some drilled/slotted from Brake Motive, they're still in the box....after the fuel pump and o.f.a gask I'm gonna upgrade front's to 13''..I'm not familiar w/ 'glazed over'..what up?
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it means i need to have them turned. which im doing this weekend.
 
Trippen Out said:
it means i need to have them turned. which im doing this weekend.
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Just my opinion, but I've never liked having rotors turned. If you think about it, if your rotor is warped, even if you turn it down, the warp is still there, the surface is just straight now, and thinner than before. So if you get them hot again, that warp is just going to come right back because there's less material there to regulate the heat so the rotor is bound to warp again. I prefer to just get new rotors when this happens. Again, just my opinion:)
 
Could the hub itself be running out? You could check that with a travel indicator. Of course you can check the rotor for run out too with a travel indicator. If the hub were running out I would think you would feel it in the steering wheel.
 
thaywood said:
Just my opinion, but I've never liked having rotors turned. If you think about it, if your rotor is warped, even if you turn it down, the warp is still there, the surface is just straight now, and thinner than before. So if you get them hot again, that warp is just going to come right back because there's less material there to regulate the heat so the rotor is bound to warp again. I prefer to just get new rotors when this happens. Again, just my opinion:)
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Having the rotor machined will remove the linear run out if you know how to use a lathe.. so that part you're incorrect on.
However, you are correct that the rotor will be thinner and more prone to warp again later.
Replacing the rotor is the best solution, but not the only factor in FIXING the issue. Calipers and hoses need to be checked for binding
If vehicle is being driven by a woman (sorry ladies) but check to make sure she knows how to drive :) lots of woman drive with both feet, one foot always resting on the brake pedal
 
Sapperfire said:
Having the rotor machined will remove the linear run out if you know how to use a lathe.. so that part you're incorrect on.
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I agree. The linear runout will be removed. And the rotor may work just fine and never warp again. But the internal structure of the metal itself is still warped. And that warpage is still there whether or not the outside surface is smooth and linear. And with the thinner metal, it will take less heat to make the warp re-emerge once the brakes have been turned. I've had this happen. That's why I don't get my rotors turned. I just replace them. In any case, it's easier just to replace them because it saves you a trip to the shop.

Sapperfire said:
However, you are correct that the rotor will be thinner and more prone to warp again later.
Replacing the rotor is the best solution, but not the only factor in FIXING the issue. Calipers and hoses need to be checked for binding
If vehicle is being driven by a woman (sorry ladies) but check to make sure she knows how to drive :) lots of woman drive with both feet, one foot always resting on the brake pedal
Click to expand...

Agreed on all points!
 
sprocket said:
Could the hub itself be running out? You could check that with a travel indicator. Of course you can check the rotor for run out too with a travel indicator. If the hub were running out I would think you would feel it in the steering wheel.
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You will know when a hub bites it.
It will make noise that will increase at speed while turning the direction towards the bad hub.

FWIW sap is 100% correct about how women can eat brakes/rotors.

At least the ones whose cars I service.
 
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