New LS owner… already wrecked her!

Ok, guys, sorry for the delay in posting this. Here’s a new video with a couple questions and info. Now with part names instead of “this one here”.



I just wanna say thanks again for all the help. I have a couple pictures coming in a minute.
 
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Rear bushings in the middle Of this picture. I saw the crack/split and didn’t look any further. Ordering these too.
5A16A7CA-209D-44E6-B770-0B045CF554FD.jpeg
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Sway bar going into body:
9F2AA92E-C27D-43F3-88FC-BE3F12FB97A2.jpeg

I was trying to see if the shock is straight.
F07337E2-9B62-4EAD-AC98-44485E645FD5.jpeg

Lower control arm front bushing:
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Your sway bar may be pushed in, but it looks correct to me. If not, the bushings on it are broken. Note that you have to discharge the AC system to change the bar, but the bushings can be replaced with aftermarket (it is not straight forward though). First, look at the bar where it comes out on the driver's side. If it's the same there, then it is all correct.
The boot is the dust boot over the inner tie rod end and the end of the steering rack.
Those are the normal gen II tail lights.

If your lower control arm bushings were failed before, steering would have been frightening, and the front tires would have been quickly destroyed.
 
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Bah, for some reason I had thought that the American taillights were always all red and the split ones were euro and Japanese. Still open to trades!

You have to discharge the ac to replace the sway bar? That seems ludicrous. I think I’ll have a specialist address the sway bar after I’ve done the rest. It seems to turn and move freely enough.

I’m headed to the junkyard today for a wheel. And to look at the shock/coil situation. Sadly it seems like those are the only parts I can get used because of the captive bushings and ball joints. Shame. But hey, maybe I’ll find a rebuilt front end there! When I return, I’m going to get her towed home and get to ordering parts. I’ll fill out my parts list with prices and all and post it up for the next idiot.

Thanks again Joe and everyone.
 
HOLY CR*P! That brake rotor though! How did that happen?!? Your wheel didn't seem all that damaged. What hit the rotor hard enough to shear it like that? I'm wondering if your caliper bracket is bent too.

Glad you're in good spirits though. Lizzie looks nice and clean; congrats!

joegr said:
Your sway bar may be pushed in. If so, the bushings on it are broken.
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You can look down from your engine compartment and see both sway bar bushings - look between the fan and the engine block. I will send a photo of that tonight.
Like Joe said, the sway bar bushings come as part of the sway bar in the Gen 2 (yours). You can either replace the whole thing (a lot of work) or replace the bushings and bushing retainers (also a lot of work, but less money), which involves some metal cutting in situ and sourcing the discontinued Gen 1 retainers (can get Jag ones). Bar and bushings are different thicknesses for Sport and non-sport.

Olaf said:
You have to discharge the ac to replace the sway bar? That seems ludicrous. I think I’ll have a specialist address the sway bar after I’ve done the rest. It seems to turn and move freely enough.
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A lot of things on this car are ludicrous. If you're going to a mechanic, they're going to replace the whole bar.
Some useful threads:
Gen II V8 Sport - replaced front sway bar bushing
Sway bar bushings- sport or non-sport

Don't remember where the whole bar replacement bar thread is, but here's the manual:
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

Here's the Gen2 bar itself, with bushings and retainer brackets attached:
Standard suspension: Stabilizer Bar Bushing - Ford (3W4Z-5482-AA) | TascaParts.com
Sport suspension: Stabilizer Bar Bushing - Ford (3W4Z-5482-BA) | TascaParts.com
 
Ok, I’ve been back by on my way to the junkyard. The sway bushings seem fine from what I can see. Finally something I didn’t break! Thanks for helping me find those Grey.
I’m not sure how I wrecked the rotor. Joe put the kibosh on me blaming the prior state of things for the wreck. So it’s just my driving skill I guess. Or my crashing skill!
 
Well, it doesn't mean that one of them didn't fail as you were making that turn and caused the wreck. I only meant that they couldn't have been that way a turn or three before that.
 
Sorry for no update yesterday, I had to sit in a dentists chair all day and couldn’t really deal with this. Only thing I found at the junkyard was the black plastic cowl and flap, everything else was trashed worse than mine. And they didn’t have the wheels. So still looking for a wheel, and maybe a shock/spring.

I was able to get the car towed home this morning. Joe had said 30 bucks, but he obviously doesn’t live in Seattle, so it cost me 60 bucks. Better than the 271 dollar quote I got!

C2A0C2AB-7ADD-4257-B811-9FBCE0A46A36.jpeg


I also ordered parts today at Rockauto, they should all be here by next wednesday. I’m hoping to do the work Thursday-Saturday next week. Until then, I’m going to be reading manuals and getting a list of things like wrench sizes and torque specs so I can keep it simple when doing the job. About how long would you expect this whole job to take?

I will fess up that I cheaped out and ordered Movetech Supreme parts instead of the Motorcraft. The cost was about a third as much. Actually, I think I paid about the same for the upper, lower, knuckle and sway link as a Motorcraft lower control arm alone. And rock didn’t have the knuckle from Motorcraft so I’d have to find that elsewhere if it still is made.

Anyway, I think I’m probably being a chump, but only time will tell. I’ll try and post some updates down the line on how these hold up. For now, I need to do some of the other things I had planned to do before my thanksgiving trip. Any good leads on an obd scanner that works? Mine from the town car doesn’t connect to forscan. And “obd” is too short a search term for the search function here. I may start a new thread for those minor issues.

Anyway, thanks again guys, couldn’t do it without ya!
 
Olaf said:
Sorry for no update yesterday, I had to sit in a dentists chair all day and couldn’t really deal with this. Only thing I found at the junkyard was the black plastic cowl and flap, everything else was trashed worse than mine. And they didn’t have the wheels. So still looking for a wheel, and maybe a shock/spring.

I was able to get the car towed home this morning. Joe had said 30 bucks, but he obviously doesn’t live in Seattle, so it cost me 60 bucks. Better than the 271 dollar quote I got!

View attachment 828570815

I also ordered parts today at Rockauto, they should all be here by next wednesday. I’m hoping to do the work Thursday-Saturday next week. Until then, I’m going to be reading manuals and getting a list of things like wrench sizes and torque specs so I can keep it simple when doing the job. About how long would you expect this whole job to take?

I will fess up that I cheaped out and ordered Movetech Supreme parts instead of the Motorcraft. The cost was about a third as much. Actually, I think I paid about the same for the upper, lower, knuckle and sway link as a Motorcraft lower control arm alone. And rock didn’t have the knuckle from Motorcraft so I’d have to find that elsewhere if it still is made.

Anyway, I think I’m probably being a chump, but only time will tell. I’ll try and post some updates down the line on how these hold up. For now, I need to do some of the other things I had planned to do before my thanksgiving trip. Any good leads on an obd scanner that works? Mine from the town car doesn’t connect to forscan. And “obd” is too short a search term for the search function here. I may start a new thread for those minor issues.

Anyway, thanks again guys, couldn’t do it without ya!
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I went Movetech knuckle on my 2001 V8 and just remember it’s aftermarket so there will be plenty of play in the lower ball joint and make sure you use Locktite when placing the lower nut on that lower ball joint it wouldn’t surprise me if it would come loose without it ...Unfortunately my Motorcraft Knuckle bent while a shop pressed in Moog Problem solver ball joints due to aiuminum knuckles and it was my own fault because I didn’t take heed to Joegr’s warning ⚠️ you will find it much easier to loosen the circuit box when replacing upper control arm it’s pretty tight or at least the 1 gen was when I did mine if you’re going aftermarket Autoshack.com is a good source I had good luck with all their parts and they arrived in 2 business days when ordered Monday thru Thursday usually...the torque specs are all over this forum no biggie there ...Like I said look for MotorCraft Shock Absorber and Coil on EBay they sell some like new shocks out of Keller, Texas Parts dealer or just go Brand new MotorCraft you’ll be sorry if you go with Gabriel, Monroe, or other generic crap...good luck keep us posted ...expensive experience ...the parts for these Relic’s are dwindling down to nothing ...be careful and drive safe
 
Olaf said:
Sorry for no update yesterday, I had to sit in a dentists chair all day and couldn’t really deal with this. Only thing I found at the junkyard was the black plastic cowl and flap, everything else was trashed worse than mine. And they didn’t have the wheels. So still looking for a wheel, and maybe a shock/spring.

I was able to get the car towed home this morning. Joe had said 30 bucks, but he obviously doesn’t live in Seattle, so it cost me 60 bucks. Better than the 271 dollar quote I got!

View attachment 828570815

I also ordered parts today at Rockauto, they should all be here by next wednesday. I’m hoping to do the work Thursday-Saturday next week. Until then, I’m going to be reading manuals and getting a list of things like wrench sizes and torque specs so I can keep it simple when doing the job. About how long would you expect this whole job to take?

I will fess up that I cheaped out and ordered Movetech Supreme parts instead of the Motorcraft. The cost was about a third as much. Actually, I think I paid about the same for the upper, lower, knuckle and sway link as a Motorcraft lower control arm alone. And rock didn’t have the knuckle from Motorcraft so I’d have to find that elsewhere if it still is made.

Anyway, I think I’m probably being a chump, but only time will tell. I’ll try and post some updates down the line on how these hold up. For now, I need to do some of the other things I had planned to do before my thanksgiving trip. Any good leads on an obd scanner that works? Mine from the town car doesn’t connect to forscan. And “obd” is too short a search term for the search function here. I may start a new thread for those minor issues.

Anyway, thanks again guys, couldn’t do it without ya!
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That would be my fault on the motor craft knuckle being out at Rockauto. Just came in earlier this week for me. Was the last one they had in stock I believe. I have what I believe to be a Moog balljoint going out, so instead of adding more stress and going to the press again, I went with Motorcraft.

Mevotech seems to get mixed results. I have my 5-month old going in this car so the risk isn’t worth the $200 to me.

There are other places that have the motorcraft knuckle. Albeit anywhere from $75 to several hundred more.

What wheel hub will you be using? I replaced mine with skf a month ago and now have some play in the bearing which I’m not happy about but summit racing is returning, so I’m going with motorcraft hubs as well to go in both sides.
 
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joegr said:
Yes, aftermarket quality can be pretty bad on some of those.
You need the sway bar end links, not the sway bar.
Don't forget the coil on shock assembly (aka "strut" even though it isn't). I am guessing that it is bent slightly now.

Note that you can't get good shocks new anymore.

By the way, it is essential that you do not reuse the Nyloc nuts. You must get new ones.
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Joe, where can you purchase the Nyloc nuts? I can’t locate part numbers or find online. Is it dealer only? Or are we just left with finding generic millimeter nuts with nylon inserts (I’d hate to do this option).
 
Mevotech has an "original grade" line and a "supreme" line with about 20% price increase. Any experiences on the actual differences? I imagine it's better quality, but that's not always the case.

Wish they'd sell directly to me - their head offices are a 10 minute drive from me. :mad:
But again, as was mentioned above, most things are not worth the savings (Mevo Supreme upper control arms are 10% cheaper than MC).
 
Broseph said:
Joe, where can you purchase the Noc nuts? I can’t locate part numbers or find online. Is it dealer only? Or are we just left with finding generic millimeter nuts with nylon inserts (I’d hate to do this option).
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If you have a dealer close by, you should try to call them, honestly. They were charging me 50 cents a piece for the elliptical sway bar link nuts. Cheaper than any hardware store, tbh (for hardened steel nuts).

I have the same question though - if I can bundle them in with a shipment though, I'd rather do that than waste a trip to the dealer.
 
Broseph said:
Joe, where can you purchase the Nyloc nuts? I can’t locate part numbers or find online. Is it dealer only? Or are we just left with finding generic millimeter nuts with nylon inserts (I’d hate to do this option).
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Local dealers or FordPartsGiant or tascaparts.

I've looked at generic Nylocs, but couldn't find them with the correct shoulders and couldn't be sure of the strength and corrosion resistance.
 
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GreyWisent said:
If you have a dealer close by, you should try to call them, honestly. They were charging me 50 cents a piece for the elliptical sway bar link nuts. Cheaper than any hardware store, tbh (for hardened steel nuts).

I have the same question though - if I can bundle them in with a shipment though, I'd rather do that than waste a trip to the dealer.
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Honestly, that’s a cheap price. I was thinking a few bucks a piece, which isn’t much, but if you’re doing bushings and ball joints like me, that adds up.

There is a dealer just over a mile from me, I’ll give them a call. I agree, a suspension fasteners overhaul kit would be nice. Oddly enough, my motorcraft UCA came with a nut, but the knuckle didn’t. Same with the wheel hubs that require new bolts.
 
joegr said:
Local dealers or FordPartsGiant or tascaparts.

I've looked at generic Nylocs, but couldn't find them with the correct shoulders and couldn't be sure of the strength and corrosion resistance.
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That’s why I don’t like generics. They dont have the shoulders or flanges that match what we have.
 
Broseph said:
Honestly, that’s a cheap price. I was thinking a few bucks a piece, which isn’t much, but if you’re doing bushings and ball joints like me, that adds up.
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Surprised me too!

Broseph said:
Oddly enough, my motorcraft UCA came with a nut, but the knuckle didn’t. Same with the wheel hubs that require new bolts.
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Drives me insane! I'm all for giving the consumer as much choice as possible, but if the manual asks for a replacement nut when you change the part, they should shove it down your throat and make you buy it as a bundle. I don't think anyone would complain that they spent a couple of cents more as opposed to having to spend the time figuring out what comes with a nut and what doesn't and then ordering it if it doesn't.
 
Well the Nyloc M16s go for a bit more than the end link nuts. $5.50.
Hub bolts - $6.50

4x$6.50 = $26.00 or 1/4 the cost of a motorcraft wheel bearing
 
GreyWisent said:
Surprised me too!

Drives me insane! I'm all for giving the consumer as much choice as possible, but if the manual asks for a replacement nut when you change the part, they should shove it down your throat and make you buy it as a bundle. I don't think anyone would complain that they spent a couple of cents more as opposed to having to spend the time figuring out what comes with a nut and what doesn't and then ordering it if it doesn't.
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Agreed. Charge me a few dollars more and save the hassle and possible damage from part failure.
 
joegr said:
I usually go here: Parts.Ford.com | The Ford Parts Site | Buy OEM Ford Parts Online‎
There are decent diagrams there to get the part number from (takes a little clicking, but you will figure out the navigation), then go to one of the other sites to order it.
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Right, this is a great resource.

But say I want the front lower ball joint nut.
I go to this page: Arm Assy - Front Suspension | FordUS (LCA)
or this page: Knuckle - Front Wheel | FordUS (knuckle)

The nut is listed as HN2 in the former and HN1 in the latter. How do I go from there to getting a part number? :(
For other parts it's easy: slap an XW4Z in front of the number (or *W4Z and another * as a suffix on most part sites) and you're on the right track
 
Select related parts.
Press the down arrow under HN2
It says: Part#: W705518
This is not the full number. Go to FordPartsGiant or similar.
It matches up to -W705518-S427 on the page with the front lower control arm.

There should be a better way, but this usually works. Jaguar does seem to do a better job with the parts call outs with full numbers and with including the misc parts that you need with the major parts.
 
Ok guys, I’ve finally gotten all the parts and a day free and I started working this morning.

Well, it took far too long to disassemble, and the lower control arm was amazingly difficult to get out. It seems like the UCA and knuckle were not in fact bent, and the shock and coil do seem fine. But… but…

The lower control arm was difficult to get out because it was bent, and in fact the thing it goes into at the front is bent as well. I’ve got three pictures below, first a comparison of the old and new, then a wide shot and then the back of the lca showing how far back it is from the place where it ought to be. It’s about a half inch.
36192B5E-0487-45A4-8F5B-270C33AECD5D.jpeg
9BAFDED1-25F9-4939-A774-6CF9BF1E09DB.jpeg
12F0166F-8839-4305-A540-0891DAEC91C6.jpeg

So now what? Is there anything I can do here? Is this call a specialist time? I tried hammering the front mount and I tried cursing loudly. It does not seem to have budged. Are there any stronger curses I should invoke?
 
Olaf said:
Ok guys, I’ve finally gotten all the parts and a day free and I started working this morning.

Well, it took far too long to disassemble, and the lower control arm was amazingly difficult to get out. It seems like the UCA and knuckle were not in fact bent, and the shock and coil do seem fine. But… but…

The lower control arm was difficult to get out because it was bent, and in fact the thing it goes into at the front is bent as well. I’ve got three pictures below, first a comparison of the old and new, then a wide shot and then the back of the lca showing how far back it is from the place where it ought to be. It’s about a half inch.
View attachment 828570920 View attachment 828570921 View attachment 828570922
So now what? Is there anything I can do here? Is this call a specialist time? I tried hammering the front mount and I tried cursing loudly. It does not seem to have budged. Are there any stronger curses I should invoke?
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We all knew the lower arm was messed...so what I hear you saying is the lower control arm ball joint towards the front won’t fit into slot?
 
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