New motor time :(

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fastcobra1982

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So i think i am needing to just either rebuild the motor i have or swap a rebuilt motor into it. I dont have alot of money right now, but would like to find a good rebuilt motor to drop in. I saw laser when he did his and how long did it take for the swap?? Anyone know of any good places to buy a rebuilt motor or someplace i can take it to have it rebuilt. It still runs but i have a knock or something when i rev it....confused. i tried to take the valve cover off to check to see if there is any cam damage or any other ovious damage, but only could pull it back enough to see, the brake booster was in the way and i think im in over my head with this. So ANY help would be appreciated from anyone. i love the car and dont want to get rid of it just want it fixed.
 
Aside from a good runner used swap the rebuilds ain't to cheap for the Marks. Someone might know of something out there tho :confused:
 
Well if you are over you head removing a valve cover, imagine replacing an engine. If your getting a ticking sound it could be a broken spring. Of course your username and post does not say what year. But if its a 95, good chance.

And if you dont have a lot of money, I would certainly looking at fixing the problem before dropping $2,500 on a new engine.
 
Sorry all, my mark is a 1994 with 181k on the motor. i dont have a way to post a video but i will try and see what i can do. the sound isnt really there just idling but when you rev it up to 2k or more you gets louder. i know the valve cover is a pain but do you have to remove the brake booster or is there a trick to do this??
 
Is it more of a 'ticking' sound that gets faster as you rev it up or does it sound like a hammer? It could be your lifters.
 
It's probably gunk build-up making the lifters stick. Usually if the engine revs and there is a piston issue, it will hesitate. Start using some better oil!
 
That's a lot different and something I'd have to hear to understand. I'm sure the guys can help ya out more though. ;)
 
Was it conventional oil or fully synthetic?

5W30 Mobile 1 fully synthetic is what I would run if it were me. Yes it's high but worth it. I don't think anyone on this site uses Penzoil, not in a Mark anyway. Not saying that's going to fix your ticking. It would have to be heard to tell you what it most likely is.
 
i run royal purple , synthetics have a better detergent package and will clean up the garbage in there. also seafoam that puppy in every orifice intake , fuel and oil . those imrc"s are probably crudded up and so the car wont rev.
 
ok i guess i will run some seafoam tommorrow through the oil. i already did the intake and the fuel, but i did notice some crude inside the valve cover and was thinking of doing that. Thanks all for the advice. i will start with flushing the oil.
 
Yes, when you use fully synthetic, it is possible that if you have a spot in the oil pan gasket or valve cover gasket, it will leak a little but not all have that problem. Mine leaks about 2 to 3 drops per night with synthetic in and then I swap over to Mobile 1 clean 5000 5W30 and the leaking stops but the FS will give it a good cleaning. In the 94 I had, I ran FS in it for 7K miles in between changes and it was always fairly clear when changing it but it too had a small leak with that oil. Nothing major though. Just added a half a quart every 2 months or so to top it off.
 
Synth may make leaks more noticeable, but thats it. In other words, it will not MAKE leaks, just make then more visible. Even then its more a myth than fact. On the Benz forums people are running synth in cars form the 50s without issue. In fact, most Benz owners run synth. They also notice, in most cases, that the engines run a lot quieter.
 
unity said:
Synth may make leaks more noticeable, but thats it. In other words, it will not MAKE leaks, just make then more visible. Even then its more a myth than fact. On the Benz forums people are running synth in cars form the 50s without issue. In fact, most Benz owners run synth. They also notice, in most cases, that the engines run a lot quieter.
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I read about that, too. It seems the system likes the "evenness" of the blend, but I'm not sure why unless they use some special metal blend for the engine.
 
Well, as mentioned above my post, the Synth blends have a habit of cleaning out the engines very, very well. This things dont stick as much. Valves operate much better. Overall then the engine is quieter. Not something one would expect from a "thinner" oil. But it works well.
 
unity said:
Well, as mentioned above my post, the Synth blends have a habit of cleaning out the engines very, very well. This things dont stick as much. Valves operate much better. Overall then the engine is quieter. Not something one would expect from a "thinner" oil. But it works well.
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When I go back with it again, I want to go with a thicker weight but really don't know what to go back with. 10W30 maybe? Have to remember, it gets hot down here where I live and the hotter it is, the thinner it's gonna get. I don't see where running 10W30 FS would hurt anything during the summer.
 
NoLimit95 said:
When I go back with it again, I want to go with a thicker weight but really don't know what to go back with. 10W30 maybe? Have to remember, it gets hot down here where I live and the hotter it is, the thinner it's gonna get. I don't see where running 10W30 FS would hurt anything during the summer.
Click to expand...

I've assembled quite a few of these engines and they are designed to run with a specific weight oil. Running a heavier viscosity may seem to be good in hot weather but it makes the engine work harder to get the oil were it needs to be.

Run what you wanna run but my last Mark had an owner that didn't care about the car. He ran what ever oil was on sale? I switched to Mobil 1 and changed it every 10k till the trans died @208k but the engine was still running fine. You will also get better mileage running the recommended viscosity but thats just a suggestion ;)
 
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