new owner / 2000 ls

elephantrider said:
finally traced down the blinking tc light issue. turned out to be the brake booster sensor.
took us a full day to do line by line testing to get to it.

this car is crazy lmao
Click to expand...

Nice work, man. Good to see people take the time to think things out and solve a problem.
 
calling joe, calling joe !!! :)

so.. the shop i was at where we traced down the booster sensor tried ordering this
part, to no avail... while they were trying to remove it, the pig tail broke, of course,
due to the plastic housing being brittle. so, do you ( or anyone else ) know what this
part is exactly ? i know it has SOMETHING to do with the advancetrac, but my factory
manual doesnt specifically call this out, other than an "electrical connection"... just
trying to see what the part is so i can try and order it...

1604851_10206297006967028_3135965615491021360_n.jpg


11013484_10206297006287011_3227382468590225760_n.jpg
 
elephantrider said:
calling joe, calling joe !!! :)

so.. the shop i was at where we traced down the booster sensor tried ordering this
part, to no avail... while they were trying to remove it, the pig tail broke, of course,
due to the plastic housing being brittle. so, do you ( or anyone else ) know what this
part is exactly ? i know it has SOMETHING to do with the advancetrac, but my factory
manual doesnt specifically call this out, other than an "electrical connection"... just
trying to see what the part is so i can try and order it...

1604851_10206297006967028_3135965615491021360_n.jpg


11013484_10206297006287011_3227382468590225760_n.jpg
Click to expand...

I don't like the look of that degas bottle.
 
not the diag plug.. lol the one under that in the pic. it goes into the bottom
driver side of the booster itself.
 
I see now, you took the connector off to get to it, the part down further which seems to have some light green inside of it.
 
Yep, not the test connector. Sadly, you'll need a new vacuum booster now. AFAIK, there's no other way to get that part. It's why they call it an "Active brake booster." I think that connects to pedal position and force sensors inside the booster.
 
ew ouch.. okay. wonder how that intertwines with the advancetrac..?

will start looking for a booster tomorrow :(
 
just fyi, the white plug / sensor is what i'm after. been searching online all morning,
and nothing... going to call the dealer on monday and see what they have to say.

may end up having to change out the whole dam thing lol go figure.

$_57.jpg
 
okay, so called the dealer and as suspected, that part is not serviceable.
so ordered a reman'd unit ( since new is discontinued ) and should be
here on wed.

fun fun !
 
just got the car back from the dealer. new booster due to the non serviceable part - and
for reference, that sensor is an integral part of the ivd / advancetrac on the car, so once
you hose it up, you'll have to replace the booster.

...and come to find out, it was a simple reprogram that was needed to get the tc light to
stop blinking - the mechanic that i used didnt have the right scanner, so that was a $300
lesson :)

car is back and running great.
 
elephantrider said:
... that sensor is an integral part of the ivd / advancetrac on the car, so once
you hose it up, you'll have to replace the booster...
Click to expand...

This is what kept confusing
me about your quest to
find it. It's not a sensor,
it's an electrical connector
to components integrated into
the booster.
 
right joe - i gotcha... i wasnt sure what was on the other side ( inside the booster ), so just called it a sensor.
those carry a $50 core @ rock auto if you guys have one laying around :)
 
...so whats the deal again with the ls jumping to almost 3k rpm's when you first fire it up ? thought i read somewhere that
the dealer could update the ecm to keep it from doing that..?

may get it on the dyno and get it tuned - would be nice to change that. no way its good for the valve train.
 
3k seems high, when i start mine, it revs to 2k maybe a tiny bit higher, and stays there for about 20 seconds before it slowly drops back down under 1k. i though it does it to get up to a certain temp, cause if the car has only been sitting for a few minutes and it gets started back up, it drops back down almost right away.
 
yup - agree.. if its already warm then it doesnt do it. still not good for it at all even
revving to 2500 or so. its "cold" here today and rainy, so when i go to lunch ill see
what it opens up to before calming down.

suprised that hasnt caused any failures over time, especially for folks up north. curious
how fast the oil pressure comes up. i know on my ls gto it takes a few seconds to build
pressure when cold firing, and i have a super pimp oil pump !
 
The oil light goes out immediately after starting on both of mine. Of course, I don't have an actual pressure gauge, so I can't say how high, how fast. The brief high idle when cold is purely for emissions. If it worries you, switch to 0W20 oil. With the exception of the gen I timing chain tensioners, internal engine oil wear issues seem to be pretty rare on these.
 
confirmed this morning on cold startup that it fires up to ~ 2300rpm, not 3k :)

buying an oil pressure gauge and sandwich adapter to keep an eye on it. curious
as to what it is on start up.
 
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