New problem

LunaEros said:
Both. It slows down going up when it's stationary, About a quarter as fast I guess but when I'm driving it's going up way too fast. It's about half as fast if I shut the AC off. Last night when I got home and parked I sat there for a minute because even if it was north of 210 if I sat there in park with the AC on the temp would slowly cool back down but not last night. Instead it went up.

It's an 02 v8 Sport
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My daily driver is a 2002 V8 LSE you have the hydraulic cooling fan system components...Question? Does the fan kick up higher when you turn the AC on? Question? Does your AC work and get nice and cold?
 
LunaEros said:
Ok. I let the temp gauge get to the halfway point and it was about 195 degrees. tried squeezing both radiator hoses where I could get at them near the top and neither seemed like there was much pressure in them.
The fan also does not seem to be spinning very fast or pulling much air through it. Don't know if this is anything but the AC doesn't seem to be blasting cold air but then again it's 95 degrees out and the car was closed before I went to try again.
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My apologies I didn't read this post...Joe is right you most likely have to change out ALL coolant components...unfortunately your hydraulic fan actuator is blocked up preventing the hydraulic fan pump to work properly...you can remove the actuator and clean it with electrical cleaner or WD40 but with the 1st Gen LSes it's a double edged sword...I would suggest having your AC purged/Vacuumed professionally and recharged with refrigerant at a Ford/Lincoln knowledgeable shop with the Snap-On refrigerant Machine...if you do all these things you will not have to worry about overheating for the next several years or more
 
AmsterDutch said:
My daily driver is a 2002 V8 LSE you have the hydraulic cooling fan system components...Question? Does the fan kick up higher when you turn the AC on? Question? Does your AC work and get nice and cold?
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Pretty sure it's supposed to. Especially in 95° weather like I've been having.
And yes it's nice and cold. At least it was until the next day. It didn't seem to be getting cold quite as well as before but I attribute that to the fact it was even hotter the next day, I wasn't driving the car when I was checking it and the windows were up. The clutch was kicking in and out like it's supposed to. If I had gauges I would've checked the AC lines. High side, I think. If the mechanic can't get it worked out, I do have one of those charge cans with a gauge on it now that I think about it. I'll put that on when the car's back and see what it shows.
 
AmsterDutch said:
My apologies I didn't read this post...Joe is right you most likely have to change out ALL coolant components...unfortunately your hydraulic fan actuator is blocked up preventing the hydraulic fan pump to work properly...you can remove the actuator and clean it with electrical cleaner or WD40 but with the 1st Gen LSes it's a double edged sword...I would suggest having your AC purged/Vacuumed professionally and recharged with refrigerant at a Ford/Lincoln knowledgeable shop with the Snap-On refrigerant Machine...if you do all these things you will not have to worry about overheating for the next several years or more
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How much does that cost these days. I'm not exactly well off or even "comfortable". I'm about the level of about a notch above getting by.
 
AmsterDutch said:
My apologies I didn't read this post...Joe is right you most likely have to change out ALL coolant components...unfortunately your hydraulic fan actuator is blocked up preventing the hydraulic fan pump to work properly...you can remove the actuator and clean it with electrical cleaner or WD40 but with the 1st Gen LSes it's a double edged sword...I would suggest having your AC purged/Vacuumed professionally and recharged with refrigerant at a Ford/Lincoln knowledgeable shop with the Snap-On refrigerant Machine...if you do all these things you will not have to worry about overheating for the next several years or more
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Shit. I need to read my whole post over before I hit the button. When I was talking about when I squeezed the radiator hoses it was supposed to say there WASN'T much pressure not "was". smh

I really hope the mechanic comes through and is able to work it out even more now since my friend's Jeep she got from her mother that she said I could either use as long as I need or even buy I now find that the tags are expired and she hasn't even got it in her name yet. I know she's on a fixed income and has even less extra money than me but she's also always been a bit of a flake when it comes to doing stuff.
I'll have to check other avenues, I guess. Anyone got and extra good condition LS I could make payments on? LOL! jk.....kinda
 
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LunaEros said:
Shit. I need to read my whole post over before I hit the button. When I was talking about when I squeezed the radiator hoses it was supposed to say there WASN'T much pressure not "was". smh

I really hope the mechanic comes through and is able to work it out even more now since my friend's Jeep she got from her mother that she said I could either use as long as I need or even buy I now find that the tags are expired and she hasn't even got it in her name yet. I know she's on a fixed income and has even less extra money than me but she's also always been a bit of a flake when it comes to doing stuff.
I'll have to check other avenues, I guess. Anyone got and extra good condition LS I could make payments on? LOL! jk.....kinda
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So your LS is in the shop? What was the estimate you were given?
 
LunaEros said:
Shit. I need to read my whole post over before I hit the button. When I was talking about when I squeezed the radiator hoses it was supposed to say there WASN'T much pressure not "was". smh

I really hope the mechanic comes through and is able to work it out even more now since my friend's Jeep she got from her mother that she said I could either use as long as I need or even buy I now find that the tags are expired and she hasn't even got it in her name yet. I know she's on a fixed income and has even less extra money than me but she's also always been a bit of a flake when it comes to doing stuff.
I'll have to check other avenues, I guess. Anyone got and extra good condition LS I could make payments on? LOL! jk.....kinda
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I suggest if your having health problems you stay away from the LS due to the fact if you can't work on the car yourself most Mechanics don't know much as about these cars, Toyota, Honda, or if looking for a Fast rear- wheel drive car Mustang would be a better choice...just being honest
 
AmsterDutch said:
So your LS is in the shop? What was the estimate you were given?
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He hasn't gotten back to me yet.
Aside from the fact that I love the car just as most everyone on the board loves theirs, I didn't have the health issues when I got the car And I don't have tons of money (yeah I know), so I prefer to keep the car since with the cost of cars these days it will be very difficult for me to get another. Especially on short notice.
 
Hell, even if money were no obstacle, I'd still keep the car fix everything up but the drive train and convert it to electric.
 
The batteries alone would make it 1000-lbs heavier & you'd need special wheels and tires. (I Googled ‍)
 
LunaEros said:
Car temp was running relatively well considering the 90-100 degree heat lately. As long as I ran the AC. But last night on the way home that luck seemed to run out. 11:30 at night in 78 degree temps I ended up having to turn the AC to full heat because the car temp seemed to be climbing fast up to 213.
Checked this morning as best I could since I have cardiac problems now and only basic tools but I can't see any leaks anywhere and the coolant level seems to be right. The fan doesn't seem to get very fast. I would think it would be running fast when the temp starts getting up towards the higher end. Is there any easy way to check it?
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My guess is that the increase in coolant temp created and or exacerbated an air bubble and it reduced coolant circulation. I have experienced this. The way to cure it is to open the water vavle adjacent to the radiator top and release the pressure. Be VERY careful as the coolant is scalding hot. Best way is to use towel over the valve and open valve very slowly and let pressure bleed off. Don't hurry it.
 
Ok. Mechanic finally started working on it. He pulled the actuator and cleaned it up and tried it but said it apparently has gone bad so I told him to go ahead and convert it.
I took the actuator to try it myself and granted don't know what to expect when testing it but since I know it is actually a solenoid I tried putting power to it but do not hear anything from it other than a slight spark from the wire when I touch it. I tested it with an ohmmeter and it's showing continuity with about 13 ohms.
Can anyone who tested one of these actuators tell me what happens when power is applied to it? Is it supposed to make a clunk noise or is something supposed to move??
 
The actuator is probably shorted/grounded then.

I think I have read on this forum, that the actuator for a Jeep Cherokee/Grand Cherokee will work as a replacement.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
The actuator is probably shorted/grounded then.

I think I have read on this forum, that the actuator for a Jeep Cherokee/Grand Cherokee will work as a replacement.
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I've read that too but I've also read someone say that although it looks identical that the threads are different.
Moot point now anyway for me since I told him to go ahead with the conversion. Plus I'm waiting for Oddball to get back to me so I can order one of his controllers he made.
Thanks for the info though, Sport.
 
LunaEros said:
I've read that too but I've also read someone say that although it looks identical that the threads are different.
Moot point now anyway for me since I told him to go ahead with the conversion. Plus I'm waiting for Oddball to get back to me so I can order one of his controllers he made.
Thanks for the info though, Sport.
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My solenoid was doing the same thing. No sound when applying voltage. Plunger was hanging up. Kept spraying carb cleaner into it and it started working again. Must have had some grit in it. Re-installed and it works fine now.
 
Yeah... my guess would be that most Gen 1 owners never took the time to flush and fill the hydraulic pump.

That would cause fine debris to clog the actuator.

It's kinda the same with the power steering pump and steering rack.

I typically suck out the PS fluid from the reservoir and refill with new fluid once a year.
 
55CrownVic said:
My solenoid was doing the same thing. No sound when applying voltage. Plunger was hanging up. Kept spraying carb cleaner into it and it started working again. Must have had some grit in it. Re-installed and it works fine now.
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You were the one I was thinking of. I just couldn't find the post.
 
LunaEros said:
Sometimes I wish my friend wasn't at my place a couple of years ago when I dropped dead from my heart just stopping.
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YOU are still here for a reason. Do NOT forget that, nor underestimate that either.

I have run out of fingers and toes to count... as to why I am still walking this earth.
 
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