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Yes you need to drain and or flush the cooling system. If that junk is in there... that might mean the heater cores are probably gunked up too.

I think there's a flush procedure in the LS service manual.
 
If nothing else... If you go to your local Ford dealer, they might be nice enough to print it out for you.

A Chevy dealer did this for me for the torque specs and sequence of a Chevy Equinox oil pan.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Yes you need to drain and or flush the cooling system. If that junk is in there... that might mean the heater cores are probably gunked up too.
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I'll have to find how a flush works on these but I did already drain it twice. First to get the green coolant out and then I filled it with water and ran it for like 5 minutes around 2k rpm then drained that and put the G05 coolant in.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Some places have coolant flushing/exchange machines.

Might be something to think about.
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That would be great but the problem would be getting the car there. I'm not getting it towed to and from another mechanics they already wanted way too much to bring it home from 3 miles away.
 
Ok, while searching for how to do it on an LS I guess I was only thinking of an old style power flush where you connect a garden hose and plastic piece that went into the radiator fill to aim the overflow away. I didn't realize that's not the only way.
So I guess I could just get a flush agent, run it through the system per it's instructions, then drain and fill the system with water a few times to clean the flush out and then fill with new coolant?
Which flush agent should I get? I don't see any particulates or other trash in the coolant in the degas or fill tube though I never paid attention to it before all this and don't know how it looked if that mechanic drained anything or when I drained it the first time. I think if it had any of that sealer stuff in the system it was probably before I got the car since it has always had a bit of an issue. It would get too hot if I beat on the car a lot from when I got the car. I'm thinking maybe the radiator's been restricted/clogged since I've had it.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Have you checked the radiator at the upper hose to see if it is broken or cracked like Joegr suggested?
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No both hoses at the top area of the radiator seem to be soft and supple. Didn't see any cracks and haven't found any leaks since I fixed the seal in the thermostat fill cap.
 
To see the front side of the radiator where the hose connects... you have to unbolt the top (passenger side) bracket that holds the radiator in place, and look.

It's not hard to miss. Typically it's a blown out, somewhat circular crack.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
To see the front side of the radiator where the hose connects... you have to unbolt the top (passenger side) bracket that holds the radiator in place, and look.

It's not hard to miss. Typically it's a blown out, somewhat circular crack.
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FRONT side of the radiator? You mean the side where the grille is and opposite the fan? That will take me a bit to get to.
How the hell does a hose even fit between the radiator and the condenser? And if it's "broken or cracked" it can cause my car to overheat the way it is?
 
LunaEros said:
FRONT side of the radiator? You mean the side where the grille is and opposite the fan? That will take me a bit to get to.
How the hell does a hose even fit between the radiator and the condenser? And if it's "broken or cracked" it can cause my car to overheat the way it is?
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I feel like you are not understanding. The two radiator hoses attach to the back side of the radiator (fan/engine side.)

1698160202293.png

As seen here. Note the top hose on the right. This is where the hot coolant from the engine goes in the radiator.

Now, look at the front side of the radiator (grill facing side). This view is rotated from the other view, so the top hose connection is on the left side of the image. I have circled in red where the hot coolant hits the front side of the radiator side tank. This is where it eventually cracks. If it is cracked, you will probably only see some powder residue.
1698160379497.png
 
Yes... that is the location... No... The hose attached to the upper radiator is not the issue, and there is no hose between the radiator and condenser.

Where the upper hose goes on the radiator... the coolant puts a lot of stress on the radiator at that location.

It eventually cracks... and discharges coolant in the form of steam.
 
No... YOU are not understanding.

In that pic of the radiator... the tank on the right is where the upper hose attaches.

On the BACK SIDE of that tank, is where the radiator blows out... but you need to remove the bracket that is holding the radiator in place, in order to see the crack.
 
Straight above the drain petcock, you have the the hole for the upper hose.

The BACK SIDE of where the hose mounts... will crack over time, and it can be easy to miss the steam leaking out... unless you are looking for it.
 
Ok. I get what you guys are talking about now from Joe's illustrating with the pics. I'll look when I get a chance. Wouldn't that also let pressure out if you say steam can come out of there?
I was thinking about getting another radiator anyway because even if it isn't the cause at least it would be another new piece in the system and that much closer to the system working well eventually.
I'll post when I get a look at it or if I have another question. I know I must be a pain in the ass but I do appreciate the help guys.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
YAAAY....
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Hey, you missed my question. Wouldn't the radiator being broken or cracked there also cause it to not build any pressure or would it only start to do that when it gets hot or something? Because it is building pressure now though I don't know if it's 16lbs worth of it.

Also what would be a good brand of radiator to get? I can't afford stock Ford brand stuff but I see RockAuto has some brands. Is TYC a good one to use? It's the most popular one there.
 
I didn't see any question, and yes the cooling system won't build any pressure if the radiator tank is cracked behind the upper hose. ANY failure of the radiator allows loss of pressure, other than being plugged.

As far as a new radiator... the consensus is to go to your local parts store (O'Reilly's or Advance) and order one. If not in stock at store... they should be able to get one from the warehouse in a couple days.
 
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Well I am getting some pressure but I also haven't let it get above operating temperature but I know it's still getting hot too fast. Maybe it's cracked but I'll still check. Still want to get a radiator anyway.

Don't have transportation to go get one locally plus it'd probably be more expensive. Gonna get one online. Cheaper and it'll be delivered.
 
The local parts stores have a warranty on their radiators. I don't think Rock Auto does.

Do you really want to have a radiator shipped by Fed Wrecks... and take a chance on a warranty (damage) claim that could take a month?

Most warranty damage claims through Rock Auto go to/through the manufacturer... IIRC.

Same thing with places like Summit Racing.
 
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