New sway bar bushings

LeaSr77

LeaSr77

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2005
Messages
1,417
Reaction score
11
Location
Wichita Falls
I just got my new sway bar bushings in today and didn't realize I ordered two pair,:bash:. They are from Engery Suspension and are made of polyurethane. The size is 1 3/16" parts# 9.5171R. I ordered them for an 01 LS Sport. So if anyone needs them just let me know.

P1050796.JPG


P1050797.JPG


P1050799.JPG
 
aarrgh. I JUST ordered a set from Autozone's website on Sunday. In the store, they had NO idea what I was talking about. Part number didnt show up on their system, and they had NO listing for 30mm sway bar bushings at all.
 
Have you replaced them yet? Wondering what the labor is like for just a bushing replacement on the 2000-2002 models..
 
I took at look at doing this yesterday. The two bolts closest to the front of the car were enough to make me put the car down and close the hood. Im guessing removing the air intake would make enough room to get to that drivers side front bolt, but that bolt closest to the front of the car on the passenger side? Yikes. Im guessing with a wobble socket and enough finagling, I'd get it..but the days of laying on my back for hours on the concrete while trying to get to bolts in tight spaces in dark areas, are OVER for me. Pep Boys quoted me $112 labor to do the job. So it's off to them this week.
 
Sway bar bushing update!

Just got my car back and had the energy suspension bushings installed. Man what a difference. Car rides like it's new. No clunking or vibration of the bar. Took it on base to the hobby shop and the mechanic charged me $71. Here are some pics of what the old rubber bushings look like.

P1050800.JPG


P1050801.JPG


P1050802.JPG
 
Do any members have the part number/definite size for a 2001 standard LS (non-sport)sway bar bushings? I've done a search and after looking back to '06 posts I failed to find it listed.

I've replaced the lower ball joints and one control arm, next are these noisy little monsters.

s.
 
TDUB said:
You have to get alignment done after doing this correct?
Click to expand...

I can't see why you would "have" to get an alignment after replacement. The sway bar doesn't effect track, camber or toe-in, but someone else may want to confirm.

s.
 
Changed my mind, and went ahead and attempted this yesterday. Removing the airbox (all of ten minute job) gives plenty of access to the most forward bolt on the drivers side. 13mm socket with a ratchet and two 10 inch extensions and a wobble end got that bolt out in 1 minute. Crawled under car and took awhile to get the rearward bolt on the drivers side. My ratcheting box wrench was too thick to fit into the tight recessed stock bushing bracket to get on the bolt, and not enough room for a socket/ratchet. Used a regular box wrench..1/4 turn at a time.

TIP: Make sure you have both sides of the front of the car up at the same time, evenly. Otherwise, the sway bar is pressed down on the side that is up in the air, making removal of the OEM bushing more difficult, and making installation of the replacment almost impossible until you get both sides of the car up evenly. Ask me how I know. Used plenty of the supplied grease on the bar and inside diameter of the Energy suspension bushing, tightened it down, and went to the other side. Even using the diagram on the Lincoln DVD, I could NOT figure out how to get that heater valve thing moved out of the way in order to get to the most forward bolt on the passenger side. Is it two 10mm bolts that need removal, or three bolts? Gave up after an hour of trying in that tight area. Will either re-attempt if someone tells me more info, or most likely take it somewhere and have a shop do it.

Observation. The stock bushing and bracket are noticeably wider and beefier with more surface area than the Energy Suspension. I sure hope these things do the job for the long haul.
 
This pic helps me, and might make me take a second stab at that passenger side bushing. Shows the bolt and the nut that need to be moved to get that DCCV out of the way enough to get to that front passenger side bushing bracket bolt...

valve.gif
 
Hey 02LSV8...that hose dead center of the pic above. THATS the one that is sitting right on top of the forward passenger side bushing bracket bolt. And while I had the right nut off and another nut on the opposite side of that nut, i didnt have the nut up on the left off, so the valve body wouldnt move..and couldnt even begin to get to that bolt. Its still a tight fit under/inthere, so I may pass on trying it again.
 
So I gave it ONE more shot. No dice.
What that pic above doesnt show, is some sort of thin black metal bracket that the actual DCCV unit sits on. That bracket is between the hose you see in the middle in the pic above and the actual bushing bracket bolt. For the life of me I could NOT see how to loosen/move the bracket over the bolt. So..off to a shop..Saturday or next week.
 
LeaSr77 said:
According to some reading and research me and a friend did, the size for the non sport models is 27mm. See the attached link. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.5162
Click to expand...

ever since my suspension was serviced i've been hearing an annoying little noise that sounds like an old creaking door or a wooden floor. i've been looking to get this done and i need to know which bushings to buy .

so would the sway bar bushings in this link be compatible with a {2000} V6 Non-Sport Lincoln Ls}??

thanx in advanced lvc...
 
slabls said:
ever since my suspension was serviced i've been hearing an annoying little noise that sounds like an old creaking door or a wooden floor. i've been looking to get this done and i need to know which bushings to buy .

so would the sway bar bushings in this link be compatible with a {2000} V6 Non-Sport Lincoln Ls}??

thanx in advanced lvc...
Click to expand...

Yes that bushing should work because the non sport models have a smaller sway bar than the sport models.
 
took the car (2002 LSE V8) to the local Ford dealer this morning. Their estimate to replace JUST the passenger side bushing with my energy suspension poly bushing? 3 hours of labor and approx $300 because "the subframe must be dropped to get to that bolt". wtf.
 
that doesn't sound right... other people have done it themselves.... and others have paid to have it done for less than half that.
 
Not to mention, thats not what the factory DVD states...nor does AllData, to my knowledge. If I had to guess? They simply didnt want to tackle the job. I've run into that before. Some jobs are EASY to actually do, but generate a fair amount of labor book hours. Other jobs are NOT easy..and dont generate a lot of labor book hours.

Regardless...all i know is, I cant get to that front bolt. There definitely is some sort of bracket sitting across/going over that bolt, and I cant even see where that bracket mounts/connects to. The DCCV lifts upward (after I loosen the 2 10mm bolts and that 1 10mm nut and out of the way..leaving that danged bracket blocking the front bolt.
 
I may try the Lincoln Mercury dealer on Monday..and let them give me their estimate. Im somwhat hesitant to try Pep Boys for something like this..
 
So I went back out and spent a good while looking at that bushing AGAIN..this time from under the hood. Took the plastic engine cover off to get a better look. I now see a bolt that I never removed, that quite possibly prevented the DCCV bracket from lifting upwards. This bracket is the one that is blocking my access to the front passenger side stablizer bar bushing bolt. If I am looking at this photo properly, this photo was taken from the angle of the car being on a lift, with the "photographer" standing dead center in front of the car, looking upwards and to the passenger side. The two bolts with the arrows: The bolt on the left faces towards the front of the car. I had removed that bolt. But, I could not see the bolt on the right..from under the car. There was another bolt that I removed, as well as a nut. The bolt I removed and nut I removed, allowed the DCCV valve to lift out of the bracket shown in the photo, but would not allow the actual BRACKET to move out of the way. So it appears I simply need to loosen and remove the two bolts in the photo, which will allow the bracket AND the DCCV to move upwards at the same time. I can then get to that front bolt. I'll give this a shot..tomorrow.

bracket.gif
 
lseguy said:
took the car (2002 LSE V8) to the local Ford dealer this morning. Their estimate to replace JUST the passenger side bushing with my energy suspension poly bushing? 3 hours of labor and approx $300 because "the subframe must be dropped to get to that bolt". wtf.
Click to expand...
Yea that is waaaaaay too much for that. I only paid $71 and my mechanic didn't have any problems.
 
Well, I'm glad I'm reading up on this... if only someone would do a rear swap so I can get some info on that!

My rear end squeaks like crazy and I'm thinkin it's the bushings!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 298 (members: 0, guests: 298)
Back
Top