New sway bar bushings

Andrizzle said:
I will be doing mine one of these days, I know I need it. I will be cutting the ones off the sway bar and adding the energy ones in place
Click to expand...

If the bushings are bad you won't need to cut them off. They will already have separated from the bar. IMHO, that isn't likely to happen.
 
So I know this thread is old but instead of starting a new one I figured I would ask here.
To all the people that have used these bushings how are they holding up after a year or so?
 
It will be two years in August for me, and within the past couple months, Im starting to get some clunking again on the passenger side. Im going to start by re-tightening the passenger side bolts again, as I never could get a REAL good HARD turn on the passenger side bolt closest to the rear of the car.
 
Color does not matter. Just depends on your preference. Bushings are made in red and black.
 
I picked red because they will be easier to inspect for visual wear/tear.

The stock bushings are black.
 
It went well!

I posted a little how-to with some photos, but I think it is buried away in the forum now.
 
so i put my new bushing on yesterday, it is a pain in the neck job, i followed Leaser77 way except on the passanger side, i removed the altnator. keeping that bracket out of the way makes it a pain, but with help from another person its managable
 
is there any way to tell if the creaking noise comes from the bushing? i took my car to the shop because it's creaking in the front passenger side. they said they don't know what's wrong. no play anywhere. he said maybe ball joint but doesn't have play so he's not sure.

change the bushing anyway?

04 ls 111k v8
 
lseguy said:
Success. Following the official procedure worked fine. My initial troubles were my fault, as I misinterpreted Fords official procedure and instead, loosened the DCCV itself from its bracket..vs loosening the bolts that hold the DCCV bracket itself. Removing those two 10mm bolts shown in the pic above allows the bracket AND the DCCV to move away from the head of the 13mm bushing bracket bolt, allowing you to loosen and remove that 13mm bolt. I couldnt really get to that 13mm bolt from under the car, so I removed my air intake and used two 10 inch socket extensions and a wobble connector to angle down between the radiator and engine block to get to the 13mm bushing bracket bolt. Used my left hand to reach down behind the passenger side headlight to shift the DCCV assembly out of the way so that I could get the socket onto that bolt. Took some finagling, but got it. Sidenote: If the alternator were removed, the passenger side would be a LOT easier. The alternator and its pulley can really get in the way. The alternator out would free up a lot of room for this job. Havent test drove the car yet. Still in the garage up on jacks. Tired. Will finish up tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Hey, im in the process of replacing my bushings .. did the drivers side today (which was not easy)... then went on to the passenger side and ran into the big ass metal plate. That pic you posted doesn't really look familiar, but i am going to take a better look tomorrow.. are those two 10mm bolts easily accessible?
 
What is the best way to remove the front bolt from the DCCV on the passenger side. I have the DCCV bracket loose, just not sure how to remove the bolt for the bushing. Any special tool help the process?
 
Hawk03 said:
What is the best way to remove the front bolt from the DCCV on the passenger side. I have the DCCV bracket loose, just not sure how to remove the bolt for the bushing. Any special tool help the process?
Click to expand...

No help, but that bolt is why I took the car in to have it done! Worked on for a couple hours and gave up.
 
Looks like I will be tackling this in the near future, just had a couple of quick questions about the passenger side, both regarding the dccv. I have an 00 V8.

1. Since we are just unbolting the bracket and no the dccv itself, is there a need to drain the coolant?

2. I've never worked in that area before. I know it's in back of the radiator, but where is it easiest to access the mounting bracket? From underneath? Looking from the top I couldn't really see where it was. Though, i didn't remove anything.
 
1) Nope, as long as you can get enough movement with it connected.

2) Sometimes the top, sometimes the bottom. So, uh, "both". Get lots of tools and just be prepared for anything. Just start removing stuff until you have a good shot at it. You may end up needing to remove coolant hoses.
 
Hawk03 said:
What is the best way to remove the front bolt from the DCCV on the passenger side. I have the DCCV bracket loose, just not sure how to remove the bolt for the bushing. Any special tool help the process?
Click to expand...

To follow up my question, I ended up taking it some place to have it replaced. They charged me an hours labor, which I was happy about since I tried at it for 3 hours.
 
it can be unbolted and "moved" over to get to the bolt... you will need to attack form both underneath and from up top with swivels and extensions... two people and two days for me (ran out of time the first day)
 
01 LS V8 GEN I - Re & RE swaybar bushing w/ end links

100_4178s.jpg

100_4159s.jpg

100_4161s.jpg

100_4163s.jpg

100_4175s.jpg

Pretty straight forward, worked mostly from above, had second person below fitting the socket.

Used 3' extension, swivels from above on passenger side. 13mm closed rachet wrench from below.

Passengers side - DCCV on it's bracket lifted out of the way.
Drivers side - Entire airbox removed but not really needed.

Swaybar Bushings and Endlinks in less then 3hrs ( no beer )

~ end results = no more knocking, stiff and tight steering.

100_4178s.jpg


100_4159s.jpg


100_4161s.jpg


100_4163s.jpg


100_4175s.jpg
 
Good work! Wanna come by when it's time to do mine?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 295 (members: 1, guests: 294)
Back
Top