No A/C and Rad fan no worky

D

d3ltax19

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Thanks in advance for the help. :)

'94 Mark VIII
The Blower blows ambient air temp air on cool, and HOT air on heat.

Over the past few weeks the A/C has taken longer to get cold.

Then last week while sitting in the Taco Cabana drv thru she over heats on me. I turn on the heater full blast, drop the windows and the temp drops as I drv the two blocks to work. At lunch, I drv it home and let it idle for 20 minutes. No problems..... Hmmm

I pull up the CD and t-shooting steps diag a bad compressor clutch. Im kinda pinched for free time, daugher graduating from HS with relatives coming into town so I take it to the dealer for cofirmation and an est.

Dealer tells me that the compressor clutch is bad and it has killed the radiator fan. (weird the fan worked fine when i jumpered straight battery to it) and they want 1200 for parts and labor (OUCH! I dont need it fixed that bad) so I pay my 60 bucks for them to look at it and go home.

Now

I have replaced the A/C clutch with an OEM reman from Rock auto, and still no go. ... the clutch does not engage. I have jumpered the connector on the dryer and the clutch does not engage. I have run diag per posts in the forum and no DTC are returned.

Any advice where to look next before I crawl under the dash? Anyone know of a good place in the Dallas TX area to take it too?

Thanks!
Doug
 
Pull the plug on the compressor, jump the dryer connector, and put a test light in there to see if you are getting power to it. If you aren't, it's not in the compressor. The control head could be bad, or it could be a simple fuse.
 
The Fan does not work with the A/C off. I let the temp get 3/4 way to the red line and it still doesnt kick on. But, it does occasionally "jerk" you can see the blades twitch and feel it in the cowl, kinda like it wants to come on but isnt getting continuous voltage. (if i jumper the battery direct to the outside pin of the fan it runs fine. it appears the other outside pin is ground. I dont know what the middle pin is.

I jumpered the connector that goes to the dryer and measured voltage on the connector to the A/C clutch. With engine running and A/C ON, I measure 14 volts there. But the Clutch doesnt engage. I double checked the spacing between the plate and pully. It is on the close side of the space range so it is not too far. What resistance should I measure in the clutch coil? (cant find a number in the CD.

(Slightly off subject, I know why the dealer charges so much for labor, the CD is one of the most counterintuative publications I have read. Not that Im a tech writter and could do any better.....)

Thanks!
 
what are the steps to running a/c diagnostics, my air blows out regular air too, not cold at all, never has for me, i have had the car for about 2 years now, could it just need a freeon recharge?
 
Check the fan relay. ITs probably rotted inside and isn't giving the full uninterupted signal. Most of the realys have the part numbers on them, just switch two of them and see what happens.

You compressor is probably roasted for the other. Sometimes, where the plug goes in just dies, and replacing the clutch won't do it. See if you can take the clutch back and get a full assembly.
 
the weirdness continues.

I disconnected the connector from the fan and jumped a testlight to it. I figured if the voltage was varying it would flicker bad. While the engine warmed up it flickered like a weak flame.

When the gauge was almost at the R it got ALOT brighter and less flickery. for the heck of it I turned on the AC. The light didnt change but the ac compressor clutch strated trying to engage. it was clacking up a storm. So I shut off the ac and for grins reconnect the fan wires (never turnned off the engine) THE FAN WORKS!. I get over that shock and turn the AC back on and IT WORKS perfect. I turn it off and back on, no problems. I let the car run and cool to normal temp and shut it off. sigh, im feeling like I have "coumputer" problem, probably the whole time. I'm a little frustrated to say the least.
 
You've got a loose or corroded connection somewhere. You've just managed to move it in a way that it's currently working. The problem is most like still there. Keep looking:shifty:
 
Try removing the VLCM connector and checking for any corrosion. You might have a bad VLCM. It is right in front of the fan, a little to the drivers side. This is what controls your FAN, A/C clutch and Fuel pump, on orders from the PCM via the databus.
 
Checked all the grounds up front I could find, cleaned them. Checked the connector of the VCRM = spotless. Compressor still wont engage. Anyone in the Dallas area that has a spare VCRM I can swap in to test?
 
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