No crank, no start

D

dmercurio

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I have a 2000 ls.

Car has been running great, no issues other than needing to replace valve cover gaskets. Today, car would no start. Battery connections good, I did try to jump it, just for fun.. Checked starter motor relay, good. Did all of the normal idiot checks.. yes, car is in park :)

My first assumption would be the starter, but with my previous experience with failed starters it doesn't come so sudden and will start once every 15 to 30 attempts.

I was thinking a ground issue? I've been reading around and saw something about a loose connection behind passanger wheel well, but i don't know..

Any suggestions or links to help would be greatly appreciated! This forum helped a ton when replacing the wheel bearing that was seized to the hub, great fun that was. Thanks in advance!
 
There was an issue where a connector at the base of the steering column (where it meets the dash) comes loose and activates the anti-theft. What are the conditions of the keys? Are you trying a key you just programmed?
 
I did try both keys and the anti theft light isn't flashing. Keys have not been reprogrammed.
 
dmercurio said:
I did try both keys and the anti theft light isn't flashing. Keys have not been reprogrammed.
Click to expand...

The light at the top of the dash doesn't flash at all when you try and start the car? What is the condition of the battery? Alternator?
 
The light on the dash stays solid for 3 seconds when the ignition is turned to the crank position. The alternator was replaced 9 months ago, battery I'm not positive. I did try to jump it and prior to today the car cranked over with ease, no sign of weakness.
 
Any clicking noises coming from under the hood when you attempt to start it?
If you turn the headlights on, do they dim when you try to start it?
 
Can you safely get under it to the starter?
There are three terminals on the back of the starter assembly, and one ground post at the front.
You should have +12V at all times on the "B" terminal. If not, trace the wiring and check the mega-fuse.
You should also check between the case of the starter and the body of the car when the key is turned to start. If you get a reading then (more than 0.1 volts), you have a problem with the ground between the starter and the firewall.
You should see +12V on the "S" terminal when the key is turned to the start position. If not, then check the wiring, fuses, and the starter relay.
If it's good so far, then you can check for +12V on the "M" terminal when the key is turned to start. If it's not, then the solenoid is bad - replace starter assembly. If it is, then the starter motor is bad - replace starter assembly.
 
I have jack stands, so safe access to the starter is possible. Unfortunately I Don't have a tool to check voltage.. I'm aware without the proper diag tools it can be a total crap shoot, but funds are tight these days and towing it to the dealer is last case scenario.

Thanks again for the help guys!
 
dmercurio said:
Unfortunately I Don't have a tool to check voltage.. I'm aware without the proper diag tools it can be a total crap shoot, but funds are tight these days and towing it to the dealer is last case scenario.
Click to expand...

a cheap multimeter is like $10

Craftsman has a pretty darn decent auto ranging multimeter for about $30, its great for beginners and for a lot of people just needing a good reading but don't have the money (or need) to sink a couple hundred dollars into a nice Fluke.

there are so many time you need to meter to test and fix stuff, every toolbox should have some kind of multimeter in it. without one, you might as well just try the chevy trick and hit the starter a couple of times with a hammer and see if that works...
 
Started this morning without hesitation, first try. Drove to work, tried again to start and got only a half crank, now it's back to not starting. Weird...

I will buy a multimeter today, see what I come up with.
 
It could be a sticking solenoid or worn out brushes. Some taps on the starter with a hammer may get it to start so that you can bring it back home.
 
Actually, it being at work is better. I can work on it indoors!

Bad starter for sure. Replaced starter, still no start. Checked new (reman) starter, also bad. Waiting until 330 for second starter. Haha, it is what it is, atleast the problem has been traced down.
 
Second starter did the trick. Used multimeter to trace solenoid failure, twice.

I also found that the valve covers are leaking a lot more than I previously thought and will need attention asap!

This is my first Lincoln, I've had it 4 months and absolutely love it. Thanks again for the quick and helpful responses.
 
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