NO HEAT ISSUE & IT'S COLD IN MINNESOTA!

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JigsawPMB

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I have a 02 lincoln LS 3.9 v8. Upon turning on my heat a couple weeks ago to make sure it was ready for winter I found out that it wasn't! I started to do some troubleshooting so I checked my coolant and topped that off still no heat. Next I moved onto replacing the thermostat that I had bought last year because I figured its time coming soon that I never got around to still no heat. Now upon looking around in the engine compartment I noticed that the actual rubber hose that is the upper radiator hose right where it clamps onto the plastic housing that i think they are calling a coolant crossover is bulging way up when the car has been running for say enough time that it takes to get up to temp. Now these are my facts that I know and can share that the degas bottle is full of coolant, i tried bleeding the system with the hose bleeder that is right next to the degas bottle, none of the three hoses going to or coming from my heater core has any type of temp going in them, the bottom hose I'm imagining is a bypass hose of some sort but still it has no hot temp either. Any help would be very much appreciated!
 
It's the same as the dozens of other no heat complaints. Your plastic cooling system parts have deteriorated and have hundreds of micro cracks in them that you can't see. This lets air in, and air prevents coolant circulation in the heater cores. Replace all of them, not most of them, all of them to solve this problem.
 
Thanks for the reply. I understand this concept and agree with it totally and am in the process of replacing plastic parts with higher quality parts mainly made out of some sort of metal preferably. I guess what I'll throw onto the table as an extra piece of information is my heat worked perfectly well last year and even into the spring when there were a couple colder days here and there and now I get absolute no heat at all! I would tend to think that even a bunch of micro cracks in the heating parts wouldn't be enough to go from heat to absolutely no heat? I could see how a bunch of micro cracks all over would take away from the heat as far as downing it degree and as they worsened so would the degree of heat. Just a thought on what you said, I truly appreciate your insight I just had that thought as I read what you were telling me. I curse the Ford Motor Company for this plastic heating set up and to think that an engineer came up with that idea. They should be taken out back and....well I'm sure you catch my drift.
 
Well you might as well curse ALL cars then?? Plastic cooling system parts are the bane of EVERY car owner after the cars gets to a certain age. They are simply wear parts and while I agree with you this is just the reality of the situation.

You need to understand that people like us are the enemy. What I mean by that is your NOT suppose to repair things!! You are suppose to consume with your brain shut completely off! DO NOT question the great dumb ass media!!!

We are so lucky to have joegr still posting as he is THE expert on all things LS! Even though he has posted that he no longer owns any LS's. What is a much bigger problem is the LS is a completely abandoned car by Ford. So parts are disappearing with no replacements in sight. As your aware Jaguar was owned by Ford for a good while so many things can be sourced that way.

I have moved on to the Jaguar world and I can assure you we have many of the same type of problems on MUCH more expensive Jaguar's!! The good thing is Jaguar does keep supplying parts WAY better than Ford does but the bad thing is the unbelievable cost!

Now get going and change ALL the plastic cooling parts because you will see ton's of people trying to do this one part at a time so you are fighting leaks/over heating for a LONG time. Just bite the bullet and start collecting parts so you can do it all at one time. Otherwise just sell the car and move on.
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Yes, it could be something else, like a clogged DCCV, but also yes the cracks stop all heat, not just some heat. Many of use have experienced it. Once an air bubble forms in certain parts of the cooling system, circulation completely stops, so no heat at all.
For the 1st gen, you can get some of the parts in metal, but not nearly all of them. There's even fewer metal replacements for the 2nd gen.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Or... the DCCV just quit working. Quite possible on a 20 year old car if it is the original one.
Click to expand...
The DCCV default is full heat. Power has to be continuously applied to the solenoids to hold the valves closed. They open if there is no electrical power (a failsafe of sorts).
 
joegr said:
Yes, it could be something else, like a clogged DCCV, but also yes the cracks stop all heat, not just some heat. Many of use have experienced it. Once an air bubble forms in certain parts of the cooling system, circulation completely stops, so no heat at all.
For the 1st gen, you can get some of the parts in metal, but not nearly all of them. There's even fewer metal replacements for the 2nd gen.
Click to expand...
Ok sorry I have been busy with this issue and trying to get it fixed taking advantage of the last few days of nice weather we have had in Minnesota as I have no garage where the car is parked so the more I can do on nice days the better off I am! So update is I tried a few more times to bleed the system and upon doing so this last time when I went to close the bleeder hose the end of it that has the impression for a flathead screwdriver spun right off and broke as I was closing it, and no I wasn't over torqueing it as it didn't close all the way made obvious by the drops of coolant that leak out of it be it very very slow drip I will have to replace that bleeder hose once i figure it out or do away with it completely and use different means to bleed the system. I have a crack in the actual thermostat housihg as i can see it drip from the backside of it somewhere so my new question and would like to think my next step would be to replace that housing with a metal option so if anyone can point me in the direction of where i might be able to obtain such a part would be great! thanks in advance!
 
That bleeder hose that the screw head snapped off... is not available separately.

Buy a new coolant (overflow) bottle, or go to a junkyard for the screw plug.
 
All of the plastic is degraded. Replace it all now, or go torture yourself doing it one piece at a time. The next piece will fail within a day or two...
 
joegr said:
All of the plastic is degraded. Replace it all now, or go torture yourself doing it one piece at a time. The next piece will fail within a day or two...
Click to expand...
That's my main goal but I'd rather replace it with a metal option so if anyone knows a website I can order one from it would be greatly appreciated!
 
AFAIK, there is metal for the thermostat housing and the degas bottle (both aftermarket). There are no metal options for the crossover assembly, the upper and lower radiator hoses, the radiator side tanks, the DCCV, or the aux pump.
 
joeGR....You have any advice on how I'm getting this dccv out? My initial plan upon looking at it from above was to put the car in the air and pull it out from the bottom in hopes that I won't have to pull the radiator and hoses from the front AGAIN! Once i had the car in the air and took a better look at it from underneath I'm seeing tranny coolant lines and such that make it look harder to get at from the bottom so I was wondering if you have any personal experience replacing the dccv and how you went about doing so. Or anybody else for that matter if someone out there has done one and would like to offer me any tips or procedures on the easiest way to tackle this issue I'd greatly appreciate it!

thanks
 
I never dealt with a 1st gen. I'm sure that the hydraulic fan makes those more difficult. The 2nd gen was pretty easy to do from the top, just remove a radiator hose or two.
 
I remember a few years back when AmsterDutch did the DCCV and Aux pump on his Gen 1.

Not only did he make up a few new cuss words... he was constantly working from the top... and bottom at the same time, trying to change out those parts.
 
JigsawPMB said:
joeGR....You have any advice on how I'm getting this dccv out? My initial plan upon looking at it from above was to put the car in the air and pull it out from the bottom in hopes that I won't have to pull the radiator and hoses from the front AGAIN! Once i had the car in the air and took a better look at it from underneath I'm seeing tranny coolant lines and such that make it look harder to get at from the bottom so I was wondering if you have any personal experience replacing the dccv and how you went about doing so. Or anybody else for that matter if someone out there has done one and would like to offer me any tips or procedures on the easiest way to tackle this issue I'd greatly appreciate it!

thanks
Click to expand...
 
JigsawPMB said:
joeGR....You have any advice on how I'm getting this dccv out? My initial plan upon looking at it from above was to put the car in the air and pull it out from the bottom in hopes that I won't have to pull the radiator and hoses from the front AGAIN! Once i had the car in the air and took a better look at it from underneath I'm seeing tranny coolant lines and such that make it look harder to get at from the bottom so I was wondering if you have any personal experience replacing the dccv and how you went about doing so. Or anybody else for that matter if someone out there has done one and would like to offer me any tips or procedures on the easiest way to tackle this issue I'd greatly appreciate it!

thanks
Click to expand...
The first time I did this procedure was on my 2001 3.9 LS it was a PITA ....remember like 04_Sport_LS says 20lbs. of crap in a 5lbs. sack ...but anyway upon having to do it again on my 2002 LSE 3.9 I found the replacement waaaaay easier knowing what to remove and that it's best to leave the holding bracket on and just remove the DCCV... I'm also from MN I know how essential our heat is ...and yes its easiest from the top but if you're going to replace the bracket you may have to go from the bottom also ...but it's best to work from the top ...your lower back will feel this one the next day
 
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