No Heat.

C

Chris03

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Hi All.
My heat does not work. I get codes 2426 and 2798. I know its not 2426, and 2798 is the DCCV. The posts I've searched say that when the DCCV is bad you will get heat, not just outside air. AC worked great all summer. Getting cool here in the north east.
Any Ideas, is this still related to the DCCV? Can I provide any more information?
-Chris.
 
If you unplug the electrical connector to the DCCV, do you get heat?
Do you have a V6 or V8?
gen I or gen II?
Are you losing any coolant (having to add any)?
Do you have any engine overheating issues?
 
Joe, you da man! '03, V8, now 65k miles not loosing coolant (to my knowledge, will look in a minute, and unplug the DCCV), no overheating problems. And the heat worked fine earlier this year. Stay tuned, I will what that does.
 
Ok, I have stupid questions. 1)how do you get the connector off the DCCV? I slid the red button on the connector up and it will not budge. does it pull straight up? Am I doing something wrong? Can I just disconnect the connector it goes to on the fan shroud. I did notice that this connector has two looms that come out of it, one goes to the DCCV the other goes back into the harness behind the headlight. 2)Where is the de-gas bottle...
I said they were stupid.......
 
Yes, you can unplug the other connector.
The degas bottle is at the base of the windshield on the driver's side.
 
Thanks. Degas bottle is fine and at the right level. No fluid leaks. Unplugging the connector did not work. Three metal lines going back to the core, bottom one hot, top 2 cold. Is the DCCV stuck closed, or should I be looking somewhere else?
 
Chris03 said:
Thanks. Degas bottle is fine and at the right level. No fluid leaks. Unplugging the connector did not work. Three metal lines going back to the core, bottom one hot, top 2 cold. Is the DCCV stuck closed, or should I be looking somewhere else?
Click to expand...

If the degas bottle hasn't been replaced in the last five or six years, it's not fine. To see the cracks, you have to remove it and hold it to the light.
DCCV is stuck closed (rare), mesh in the upper radiator hose is clogged (rare), aux pump is dead (usually doesn't kill heat at speed), or you have air in the heater loop (common).

Follow the bleed procedure. If you get any air out, then you have leaks. Those leaks will be from the degas bottle and from the three major plastic cooling parts at the front of the engine, and maybe also from the plastic sections of the radiator hoses.

Bleed procedure: http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x33004.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_142

Note: The micro-cracks in the plastic parts may not let enough coolant out for you to notice, but they are letting air in.
 
Thanks. I will try this procedure tomorrow. Do you need to use the premium gold to top it off? If so is there an equivalent to the Ford brand that you can get at an auto parts store, or walmart, or not recommended?
 
So, I did the bleed procedure. The system took about as much as I bled out. Top two lines still cold and still no heat. Could this still be related to the DCCV, or should I be looking to the temperature sensors behind the center console, or something else like the EATC?
 
Chris03 said:
...Could this still be related to the DCCV, or should I be looking to the temperature sensors behind the center console, or something else like the EATC?
Click to expand...

Unplugging the connector did not work.

Unplugging the DCCV and still not having heat completely eliminated that DATC and its temperature sensors as a possible cause of the problem.

Coolant is not circulating through the heater cores. Possible causes:

DCCV clogged or stuck closed.
Filter screen in upper radiator hose is clogged.
Aux pump bad and clogged.
Heater core return hose clogged.
Both heater core supply lines clogged.
Heater cores both clogged.

Please note that if you have never had heat since you bought the car, the person that sold it to you may have put plugs in the heater lines instead of replacing a bad DCCV. It's happened before.
 
Hmm. Had blazing heat when I bought it in February of this year.
I pounded on the DCCV with the end of a 3/8 extension long enough to get to the top of the solenoids. Top two lines got "warm".
Bottom line too hot to touch. Top two warm. I assume that the bottom must be the supply...
Is the upper hose and screen the hose right above the DCCV? Easy to check, if so, is this connection a supply, or a return to the heater core?
Where is the Aux pump located? Is it easy to check?
I assume that the top two lines are the returns, no?
 
It's the DCCV trust Joegr when he say it, mines did the exact same thing I replaced all plastic parts and degass bottle, bled the system, and I had heat. After the first complete cool down I went out topped off the degas bottle, drove to the store I had heat, shut car off went into store came out drove off no heat.

It was the DCCV chased it for a month or so cause I was being hard headed about it the water pump failed in this time frame also. Replaced the DCCV now I have heat.

Next in line is the aux pump.
 
Chris03 said:
Hmm. Had blazing heat when I bought it in February of this year.
I pounded on the DCCV with the end of a 3/8 extension long enough to get to the top of the solenoids. Top two lines got "warm".
Bottom line too hot to touch. Top two warm. I assume that the bottom must be the supply...
Is the upper hose and screen the hose right above the DCCV? Easy to check, if so, is this connection a supply, or a return to the heater core?
Where is the Aux pump located? Is it easy to check?
I assume that the top two lines are the returns, no?
Click to expand...


Contrary to belief the top two lines are inlet and outlet the lines on the right side the top and bottom are the inlets to the heater core the one on the top left is the return line.

Trust me I found this out the hard way had the lines crossed so it was blazing Hot no adjustments from the dual zone just hot. Lol I had go back in and switch them. So get it right the first time even if you have to mark the lines with tape do it its a headache to get off and on.
 
Chris03 said:
...
Bottom line too hot to touch. Top two warm. I assume that the bottom must be the supply...
Is the upper hose and screen the hose right above the DCCV? Easy to check, if so, is this connection a supply, or a return to the heater core?
Where is the Aux pump located? Is it easy to check?
I assume that the top two lines are the returns, no?
Click to expand...

At the front of the engine, the top two lines are supply.
At the heater core, the bottom line and the top right line (towards the left side of the car) are the supply lines.
At the heater core, the top left (right side of the car) is the return line. It's slightly bigger than the other lines. It also has a tee in it.
Top radiator hose tee is a supply to the DCCV.
The aux pump is below the DCCV.
 
Joegr has always given me "rock solid" advice for all my questions! So, it looks like this pointing to the DCCV. Is this a part that would be better purchasing from Ford, or is a part from say, Advanced, ok? Also, is there a procedure or write up available?
 
It's electrical, so go OEM. Non-OEM electrical items tend to not work well on any car, but the LS is especially sensitive to non-OEM electronics for some reason.

On procedures, can't help you there as I've not tackled one, but a little patience will either get you a procedure or a thread. In the meantime, you can search for a thread on your own as I think it's been covered here before.
 
So, here is the update, sorry so late, but thankfully, I have a second vehicle to drive. I bought a DCCV from stockwiseauto.com, about $100 (they have great prices on original Ford parts). However, I’m not sure that’s what the problem was, so, let me explain. Opened the overflow tank, heater core air bleed, and the engine fill, and drained the radiator at the petcock. I got about 1-3/4 gallons out. I disconnected the upper radiator hose and the electrical clip from the DCCV. I removed the DCCV and all hoses including the hose from there to the upper radiator hose. In the loop at the bottom where that hose goes to the DCCV there was a clog of this very light brown material about 4 inches long through the hose. Squeezed it and blew it out with a hose. Back-flushed the heater core and re-installed everything and performed the proper bleed procedure. The system took the same 1-3/4 gallons, and no problems to date. I put the new DCCV in because after all that hassle, I was not going to put the used part back in to find out it may have been bad too.
Two questions. 1) I don’t think the light brown “stuff” was something Ford put in. My guess is some sort of “stop leak” from previous owner (??), but, so far I have no leaks. 2) The manual states that the system takes 3 gallons, I only got out 1-3/4. Is there a way to get more than that out?
 
Vacuum it out of the engine and the heater cores, or turn the car over and shake it.
If you have contamination, then it would be better to get it fully flushed using one of the machines made for that purpose.
 
joegr said:
Vacuum it out of the engine and the heater cores, or turn the car over and shake it.
If you have contamination, then it would be better to get it fully flushed using one of the machines made for that purpose.
Click to expand...

I will turn and shake, thanks! I think most of the contamination settled in the hose. I just need to remember to turn the heat on periodically during the summer months...
 
I've got warm heat not hot and today when I did the home depot front lip, I could smell coolant and didn't notice any leaks so I will check coolant level in the morning. I also had my check engine light came on this weekend and am throwing codes PO302 and PO308. From what i've been reading on here, I'm guessing cop's and plugs. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Mark
 
If you smell coolant, you have a leak. You just haven't found it. A leak too small for you to notice the coolant level going down right away, is still big enough to cause problems.
 
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