Now a tranny problem what could be next?

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ReMiXeDg

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So I notice sluggish switching from 2nd to 3rd or maybe it was 3rd to 4th and the car didnt want to switch to 5th gear in D5 then I pull over and notice it says E where it says if the car is in drive or reverse//

the car jerks very little when you put it in any gear always done that.

but now it seems whem i jjump of the highway the tranny acts up and I get the E code

How can I pull the codes//

Secound would replacing the solenoid , 4-5 stroke spring and valve cover body fix this if not what should I be looking at?

thanks a lot sorry for all my questions non stop this forum is a stress reliever hopefully

do you think if i drive in D4 will any of this happen i have to try it out
 
Eck, that dreaded E. I had that problem less than a year after owning my LS due to a repair shop that shredded my tranny. Anywho, unhook the battery for about 10 minutes. In that time, just play with all the buttons bells and whistles to ensure that your system is fully drained. Reconnect your battery and drive the car around as this procedure will reset your computers shifting strategy. It's normal to have fairly "firm" shifts during the first few times of driving but it will eventually smooth out if that is the problem.

If you want, we can schedule a time for a meet on monday and we can take it to a personal buddy of mine who owns a tranny shop on Utica Ave and Clarkson Ave and he can diagnose it from there.
 
fudge12 said:
Eck, that dreaded E. I had that problem less than a year after owning my LS due to a repair shop that shredded my tranny. Anywho, unhook the battery for about 10 minutes. In that time, just play with all the buttons bells and whistles to ensure that your system is fully drained. Reconnect your battery and drive the car around as this procedure will reset your computers shifting strategy. It's normal to have fairly "firm" shifts during the first few times of driving but it will eventually smooth out if that is the problem.

If you want, we can schedule a time for a meet on monday and we can take it to a personal buddy of mine who owns a tranny shop on Utica Ave and Clarkson Ave and he can diagnose it from there.
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Sure no problem thanks a lot. I've been driving it around in d4 no problems .

I'll like to see what your guy has to say thanks once again can you retext me I deleted all messages and forgot to keep in mind I never saved your number I had the convo that's why
 
If you have the E there is a failure somewhere. I got the E on mine and it turned out that the planetary gears for overdrive sheered and got metal all through the trans. I replaces the Solenoid, all springs, all gaskets, as well as the master rebuild kit. I also have a new pump and TC. It now shifts amazing.

It needs addressed now or it will be more expensive later.
 
Yea I'm going to redo who whole tranny like you did. ASAP and as that's being worked on I guess I'll get the alternator job ready and then coils lol this car hopefully we be running like a chap by 2015
 
ReMiXeDg said:
Yea I'm going to redo who whole tranny like you did. ASAP and as that's being worked on I guess I'll get the alternator job ready and then coils lol this car hopefully we be running like a chap by 2015
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Yeah unfortunately none of it something that can wait, or it gets much worse. Bad coils unaddressed can lead to cat failure (can be very costly)

Hopefully you can get it all taken care of. Honestly for me the car itself wasn't worth the tranny work I put into it. However no payment and not getting another used car that I don't know the history of was worth it to me.
 
ReMiXeDg said:
I guess I'll get the alternator job ready
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I suggest brushing up on your Tetris so you can get the alternator out of the lower control arm, and when you can't get the long bolt loosen the passenger engine mount and jack the engine up about an inch, using a wooden block between the engine and jack.
 
Telco said:
I suggest brushing up on your Tetris so you can get the alternator out of the lower control arm, and when you can't get the long bolt loosen the passenger engine mount and jack the engine up about an inch, using a wooden block between the engine and jack.
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Or do what I did and pay the shop the hour labour.......
 
LS4me said:
Or do what I did and pay the shop the hour labour.......
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Nah, it's really not that bad. If one has done it before it only takes a little longer than replacing the alternator on any other car. Knowing that the alt comes through the lower A arm with some twisting, and that the long bolt comes out if you loosen the engine mount bolts on the passenger side enough to raise the engine an inch it's a lot easier to do the job.
 
I've notice the E comes on mainly and only when driving on highway in d5 other than that if I'm driving in d4 rarely and sometimes on the highway the car will be doing about 40 and when I step on gas it's like it's in nutrual I then need to let off and rested on it or put it in d5


Can it be the torque converter or the 4-3 stroke spring?

What's about if I have bad coils can that be causing the problems?
 
Update P0795 is the code I get so I need a new solenoid pack .

Any advice
 
LS4me said:
Yup.... Buy the solenoid pack and either replace it yourself or have it done.....
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Will it be a fix? I'm scared I put a new pack and spring then next thing you know I still or the problem occurs.
 
ReMiXeDg said:
Will it be a fix? I'm scared I put a new pack and spring then next thing you know I still or the problem occurs.
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IMHO you can only fix the problem indicated by the code. Worrying about what else may (or may not) be wrong is really a waste of energy. When I had the delayed P-D-R-D engagement replacing the solenoid pack fixed the problem. That transmission now has over 185K miles on it with no problems; and it's an '00.
 
LS4me said:
IMHO you can only fix the problem indicated by the code. Worrying about what else may (or may not) be wrong is really a waste of energy. When I had the delayed P-D-R-D engagement replacing the solenoid pack fixed the problem. That transmission now has over 185K miles on it with no problems; and it's an '00.
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Thanks for your help. I've been reading eveywher some people just replaced the 4-3 stole spring and the problem was fixed. I'm I'm a huge debate right now should I try doing the spring or should I replace both the spring and solenoid?

I notice car only shifts 1-3 when warm that's what a lot others experienced then they replaced spring and problem went away . As to some replaced the solenoid and problem still existed.

I do notice a bit harsh engagement from P-D-R-D but it's not delayed and even sometimes hear a little klunk when putting it in park


Anyone know if when the spring breaks that's the code that comes up
 
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