Odd overheating issue

[FDR]

Yea i think i need to just order a big bag of those. Probably have close to 20 missing including the ones that hold interior carpet and stuff in place. Off topic, but i managed to break the plastic head off of my radiator drain plug when letting some coolant out. Luckily, I was able to fit a hex head allen wrench into the broken plug to tighten it the rest of the way in, as it was very slowly leaking. Seems to have stopped the leak, and im just wondering if theres any way to replace it without getting coolant everywhere or draining the entire system.

Considering it's the drain plug, no, you have to drain the system. If you've got some talent and if it's the same style plug used in the 96-05 Taurus, you can probably unscrew it very quickly, yank it out with a visegrip preset to "mildly crush". Make sure both retaining hooks come out. Pop the new one in and screw it quickly. Do it when the engine is COLD and have a large bowl under it. Like those 10qt oil change pans. If you leave the degas cap on it shouldn't drain that fast. On the two Tauruses, there were two stopcock styles. One was a hex-head with a hex hole, the other was fin that you're supposed to be able to turn by hand. They're interchangeable.

Or just skip the drama, drain it into a clean container, grab a drink, replace the stopcock, pour the "old" coolant back in, and bleed the air again.

 

[LS4me]

Lol yup. And i cant believe they tell you those plastic push retainers for the cowl are reusable..maybe for the first time. I need to stock up on those. Ended up having to wrap the threads of every single one with electrical tape so theyd hold in place. Also one question for anyone..the strut tower support bar that spans the engine bay, what is its purpose? Does it really privide support, structurally, for the car? Because out of the 7 bolts that tighten it down, 4 had been previously rusted bad and the heads broken off leaving the threads in place. Thinking about drilling them out and replacing if anyone thinks its worth it. Thanks, Nate.

Yes, the shock tower brace is important. It ties the front together and helps stiffen the chassis. Do you think the engineers would design in and spend the money on something that didn't have a purpose? Ever drive a convertible or a car without the brace? Many aftermarket companies make them for many cars. Some cars even have a shock tower brace available for the rear.

Oh, I've reused those push-pins many, many times.

 

[regiment1]

Oh, I've reused those push-pins many, many times.

Mine have started to break down from old age. So I replaced them all for $7, shipped direct from China.

 

[RigsLS]

... you think the engineers would design in and spend the money on something that didn't have a purpose?

Where should we start on 'that' list? LOL

 

[LS4me]

Where should we start on 'that' list? LOL

I'll bite.....

Start naming. But remember, a few of us got to talk to the engineers early on and they explained the reasons for the, shall we say, "exotic" stuff. And you can't blame the engineers for a "Chinese quality" supplier.

 

[1LoudLS]

those push pins can be used over and over as long as they are removed correctly, however they do have a limited lifespan, once they get brittle and start cracking, they need to be replaced.




and if you don't think that brace is important, just look at one of the very first things people who track their cars put on.... strut/shock tower braces!
the handling of this car is a symphony, every instrument has its part to play.

 

[RigsLS]

I'll bite.....

Start naming. But remember, a few of us got to talk to the engineers early on and they explained the reasons for the, shall we say, "exotic" stuff. And you can't blame the engineers for a "Chinese quality" supplier.

then there is no point to the list.

 

[nastynaters]

I thought the brace was pretty important just by looking at it. I just didnt know for sure. It really pisses me off how the previous owner didnt seem to care about something like that

 

[RigsLS]

^ Someone's been in to replace the degas bottle possibly ... it requires removal or at least loosening of that brace.

I color matched mine when I had it out during my cooling system overhaul.

 

[nastynaters]

I have access to a tool that i can hopefully extract those broken bolts out with. Wish i would of known about this earlier..i would have had it fixed early on and not ever drove aggressively until it was fixed. Do you think i should get the bolts from the dealer? Or should any bolt of the same specs do the trick?
Thanks

 

[Telco]

I have access to a tool that i can hopefully extract those broken bolts out with. Wish i would of known about this earlier..i would have had it fixed early on and not ever drove aggressively until it was fixed. Do you think i should get the bolts from the dealer? Or should any bolt of the same specs do the trick?
Thanks

Any bolt of the same spec or stronger will work. You can likely get the metric equivalent of Grade 8s (has a name, escapes me at the moment) at the local hardware store for about a buck each, possibly less. The same bolts from the dealer may cost a buck each, may cost as much as 20 bucks each. Dealers are usually VERY proud of their bolts.

 

[nastynaters]

Lol..yes dealers are proud of alot of things. Thanks alot though. Appreciate it

 

[LS4me]

I have access to a tool that i can hopefully extract those broken bolts out with. Wish i would of known about this earlier..i would have had it fixed early on and not ever drove aggressively until it was fixed. Do you think i should get the bolts from the dealer? Or should any bolt of the same specs do the trick?
Thanks

Any bolt of the same spec or stronger will work. You can likely get the metric equivalent of Grade 8s (has a name, escapes me at the moment) at the local hardware store for about a buck each, possibly less. The same bolts from the dealer may cost a buck each, may cost as much as 20 bucks each. Dealers are usually VERY proud of their bolts.

What he said. Don't forget to match the thread pitch.

 

[nastynaters]

Okay. Ill probly check the dealer out first and see what their prices look like

 

[nastynaters]

So i brought one of the bolts from that support brace to a dealer today. First, he couldnt even find the part listed, even asked if it was aftermarket. Im like..."uhh i think those are on every LS.." After no luck looking up the part with my VIN, i handed him the bolt for measurement and he supplied me with the exact specs. Went to a hardware store and was able to get all new matching bolts, except one minor detail. They were out of the "25" length, so i had to go to "30", which is just a bit longer. Havent looked into it yet, though im assuming itll work just fine. One other thing, i wasnt able to find the correct hardened steel washers, so i bought some regular ones of the same size. Just wondering what anyones opinion on this is, if i should go ahead and use the washers i bought, or look around some more until i find the correct hardened steel washers..i was told as long as the bolt is correct, i shouldnt have any issues. Also, does anyone know the torque specs for these? Believe its 20ft/lbs.
Thanks for any advice

 

[joegr]

...Also, does anyone know the torque specs for these? Believe its 20ft/lbs.
Thanks for any advice

20 Nm, which is about 15 ft-lb.

 

[nastynaters]

Thanks for the quick reply. Think ill be fine with the standard washers?

 

[joegr]

Thanks for the quick reply. Think ill be fine with the standard washers?

Yes.

 

[nastynaters]

Your the sh*t joe. Almost like a LS-specific mechanic thats on call 24/7. Really appreciate people like you, keeps the forum moving forward and straight to the point. And now i shall let this thread sink and die.
Thanks again,
Nate