Oil and water don't mix...right?

[rrtchad]

All-

Does anyone have experience with this "situation"? I have a 2002 Lincoln LS 3.9 auto trans that was operating fine until suddenly heating up on the highway (AC on) traffic stopped. It never touched red but climbed high for a brief period of time until I was through traffic. As soon as i was up to speed it cooled back down to normal. I noticed anytime I slowed it would slowly heat up again (never to red). I got it home and parked it to find milky/pinkish oil in my coolant reservoir.

1. no water/coolant in oil
2. after a flush of radiator it seems no oil in radiator itself?
3. oil in coolant reservoir is continuous

The easy answer is a head gasket but why not oil and water mixing other places besides just the reservoir container? This is after flushing the radiator with proper procedure and giving it a test drive. Still heats up, still only oil in the reservoir.

Could it be transmission fluid and would that cause the overheat?

Any advice prior to taking it in would be great!

Thanks for reading

 

[G-RELL]

where is your "Coolant reservoir" located? where did you see the milky mix?

 

[rrtchad]

Thanks for the reply and pic, nice LS! Its the container to the left of the engine in between the shock tower and front of the car.

 

[rrtchad]

where is your "Coolant reservoir" located? where did you see the milky mix?

Thanks for the reply and pic, nice LS! Its the container to the left of the engine in between the shock tower and front of the car.

 

[joegr]

Thanks for the reply and pic, nice LS! Its the container to the left of the engine in between the shock tower and front of the car.

Okay, you (or someone) have put coolant in the hydraulic fan reservoir. That reservoir is only ever supposed to have Mercon V ATF in it. (Your owner's manual will say Mercon, but Mercon V is now recommended.) That hydraulic fan system will cost thousands to replace (yes, it really does). Maybe if you have it completely flushed, cleaned, and refilled with Mercon V, you will be able to save it.

(Your coolant reservoir is at the base of the windshield on the driver's side.)

 

[G-RELL]

thats what I was afraid of....

That is not your coolant reservoir... that is the coolant fan oil reservoir. If you've added coolant to that tank, you'll need a full tare down of that system to get the water out. The coolant reservoir is up in the top right near the window (look at you manual for confirmation)... sorry bud

 

[rrtchad]

wow...thanks guys! I will attempt to flush out that system and hope I can avoid major repairs.

 

[joegr]

wow...thanks guys! I will attempt to flush out that system and hope I can avoid major repairs.

G-Rell is right, you'll need to disassemble it (disconnect the hoses, reservoir, pump, and fan motor), and clean everything really well. Otherwise, you risk a little left over water causing corrosion on the tight tolerance parts of the pump and the motor.

 

[G-RELL]

Yep... there is a frothy mix within the pump (and lines, etc.) itself, blocking the hydo fluid from doing its job.

A flush MIGHT, get it out...but thats risking alot. If you want to risk it (by not doing a tare down), if things start to fail.. you may want to look into an electric fan swap (google it) before you start replacing failing hydraulic parts...

ON TOP of fixing the overheating problems... which is most likely air in your system due to hairline cracks in your degas bottle or cooling system parts (lots of threads on both).

Once you get the pump cleaned out. you can start with bleeding the cooling system CORRECTLY. you must follow these steps PERFECTLY.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/drain-lincoln-ls-cooling-system/

GL

 

[rrtchad]

Just an update. I flushed our the hydraulic fan and it's working again. I will be considering the electronic fan option for the future. I changed the thermostat and flushed/bled the system following the given steps from GL. Test run tonight with no overheating after about 30 minutes of idle and 15 miles of in town driving. Thanks for all the help. I'll take it to work tomorrow for ultimate test. (60 miles round trip)

 

[G-RELL]

Good to hear and good luck

remember most overheating problems start with hairline cracks in the degas bottle, that introduce air into the system, or cause the coolant to bleed out. so it may work fine for a bit, then start overheating..(sucks right!?!)