Options for Lincoln LS toe Link / Rear Adjustment Link / Torque Link 6W4Z-5B551-AA 1W4Z5B551AA

[Kumba]

The OEM Ford part number is 6W4Z-5B551-AA for Gen2 and 1W4Z-5B551-AA for Gen1. They are the same part but Ford decided to make it fun and gave the Gen2 a new number.

Fordparts.com has them for $200/ea and will deliver them to your local dealer or ship to your home
Tascaparts.com, fordpartsgiant.com, and others has them for around $140/ea
There's a couple sellers on ebay selling New OEM links for $150/ea as well


And if we step into the Aftermarket and also cross reference a '00-'02 Jaguar S-Type (the LS' British Cousin) we get:
Deutsche Parts (Highly recommend to avoid, not even gonna give a part #)
Beck-Arnley 101-6784
Deeza JA-L607 (Some here have used them and reported good things)
Moog JADS8881
Jaguar XR825750
MTC 7868


And if we get adventurous and include things that could possibly fit but would require someone to buy it and be the first to try we get:
Lemforder 33590 01 (OEM for Jaguar XF which is DEW98 based and replaced the S-Type)
Jaguar C2D51044 (This is the Jaguar branded Lemforder part above)


All of these non-Ford parts eliminate the compression bushing that is present in the OEM toe links. The compression bushing gives the rear of the car a somewhat 'Passive' rear steer effect in tight turns at speed. Instead it will feel more like a traditional car where the rear end pushes to the inside of a turn as opposed to the OEM links making the car push the rear to the outside of a turn. Some people prefer this type of handling since this is how most cars are set-up and its familiar to them. The real world difference is pretty small and I wouldn't put too much consideration into it. There will be minimal to no impact on ride quality or NVH so chose the one that best fits your budget and preference.

My preference is the OEM links as it makes the car react better and feel more nimble in my opinion. For the average daily driver you won't really notice much, if at all, unless you plan to attend performance driving events like an Auto-Cross or just drive aggressively in general.

 

[TooManyToys]

I replaced ours with the OEM links. My wife doesn't notice the passive steering but I always have. There are times when I'm switching around vehicles and drive the LS the effect surprises me as I tend to drive aggressively. I retained it as I felt it is part of the character of the vehicle.

 

[SeaPro]

I really appreciate you reposting this. I'm assuming these are all interchangeable for any year? 2000-2006?

The Internet is filled with conflicting information, some people say jag won't fit, or will only fit the first two years... even ford parts giant lists them fitting 2004-2006 on one line then 2000-2006 on another. They're all compatible right?

Thanks!

Also I am not exaggerating when I said I only got 400km out of a set of Deutsche Parts. They were around $240 CND. I installed them in the winter, the car sat until now. I burned less than a tank of gas before putting new tires on it. Went an alignment and they were shot. NEVER buy cheap suspension parts. I've got through two sets (I've got a v6 and v8). All in all I'm out 40 bucks on Chinese junk.

 

[Kumba]

Yeah, the rear toe links are the same for all LS'. The reason the aftermarket and cross-references are so whacky is because Ford even has two part numbers for the same thing. The likely different was probably using a different rubber boot material or grease or something on the first gen that they changed in later years, which generated a new part number for the same physical and functional item. The correct parlance is that the first gen part number was superceeded by the second gen part.

In theory the Toe Links should be the same for all S-Types as well, but I can't recall anyone specifically using a 2003+ cross-referenced S-Type link. Those who did a cross-reference always used a 2000-2002 S-Type and it worked without a problem which is why I only included those parts in my listing.

 

[Kumba]

I replaced ours with the OEM links. My wife doesn't notice the passive steering but I always have. There are times when I'm switching around vehicles and drive the LS the effect surprises me as I tend to drive aggressively. I retained it as I felt it is part of the character of the vehicle.

Yeah, I definitely notice the difference when getting on it. About the easiest way to 'feel' the difference is when doing a u-turn quickly. You'll actually feel the rear end swinging around almost like it's fish-tailing.

 

[DeviLSh]

Moog JADS8882 (Jaguar 2003+ S-Type, XFR, F-Type, and others)

I just ordered these, they DO NOT fit, they are just a bit too long ( and yes, too long to adjust for). I have returned them, and am ordering the Moog JADS8881 instead.

Will let you know how they work out, thanks for posting the other links and info!

 

[Kumba]

Moog JADS8882 (Jaguar 2003+ S-Type, XFR, F-Type, and others)

I just ordered these, they DO NOT fit, they are just a bit too long. I have returned them, and am ordering the Moog JADS8881 instead.

Will let you know how they work out, thanks for posting the other links and info!

And removed that one from the parts list

 

[DeviLSh]

Great. Similar to the other suspension changes from gen2 LS to the 03+ Stype, this would make sense if they are a bit different based on the same logic. Glad I could guniea pig this and fail.

I should note: I ordered these - Rear Stabilising Link - XR825750 - Aftermarket at www.rimmerbros.co.uk They fit my gen2, but the boots have fallen off the inner ends, and they have play, massive play after about 4,000 mi. Hence me trying out the moogs.

 

[SeaPro]

I've decided to go with ford's links for $500 (for the pair)... It's a shitty pill to swallow but after my horrible experience with after market, I'm sticking with the 2 year warranty...

It's insane how difficult this car can be lol.

 

[Kumba]

I've decided to go with ford's links for $500... it's a shitty pill to swallow but after my horrible experience with after market, I'm sticking with the 2 year warranty...

It's insane how difficult this car can be lol.

Holy crap, $500? That's about what two links cost together!

You need to find you a friend in the US who can ship you some 'used' links they they accidentally ordered new

 

[joegr]

Holy crap, $500? That's about what two links cost together!

You need to find you a friend in the US who can ship you some 'used' links they they accidentally ordered new

Actually, a pair of links should only be about $286 plus shipping.
6W4Z-5B551-AA - Ford Parts Giant

I thought he was talking about both for $500, but that is still almost twice what it should be. On the other hand, he has government healthcare...

 

[DeviLSh]

I was recently quoted $400 after tax for the pair from my Lincoln dealer. This was 2 weeks ago.

 

[Kumba]

You can literally order them from Fordparts.com and have them shipped to you or your dealer for $400. Then there's Tasca and Ford PArts giant who will ship to your home for less. For $500 I'll sell you a set of OEM links! That's crazy money!

 

[SeaPro]

Sorry for the confusion, it is roughly $500 CAD for two.

I think I can get the wholesale price of $210 each, so more accurately $420 + 15% = $483 CAD

Regular price is $280 each from ford, totaling $644 with tax. Outrageous for two little metal bars I could make in my garage for $50... I'm tempted to fabricate my own, but the amount of hassle I'll have to go through to get it right isn't worth my time.

Ford Parts Giant comes to 439.26 CAD Shipped to my door with a delivery time of 2 weeks. They seriously charge $150 to ship to my address (Halifax Nova Scotia)... Any way you cut it it's a shitty deal. Best option is to get them local.

(Actually the best option is to drive the thing into a lake and use it as a mooring for my boat).

I wouldn't even care but I just dropped 1K on new tires, which will be ruined without an alignment which can't be done on bad links.

 

[joegr]

...(Actually the best option is to drive the thing into a lake and use it as a mooring for my boat)...

I think that option would be pretty expensive too, due to environmental cleanup charges, unless you get all fluids out first (really hard to get all of the oil and transmission fluid out).

 

[DeviLSh]

Just wanted to update -

Removed the Rimmerbro links yesterday. Before I did, I noted that if I grabbed the wheel at 3 & 9, I could get it to shift in and out maybe 1/4 - 1/2". :O All movement being observed at the inner end. Took off the links, installed the Moog JADS8881's. Fit like a charm, no more play. Car drove wonderfully on the test drive.

Stay away from the rimmers. I will upload a video of just how little effort was needed to move both ends. Hopefully these moog's last longer.

 

[DeviLSh]

 

[RigsLS]

Hmmm, not good. will have to have a look how mine are holding up.

 

[SeaPro]

Just got back from being away. I delayed the purchase until I knew what I was going to do with the cars. So just to clarify, they're $210 CAD from the dealer, plus tax so a pair is around $483. Buying from the US is actually more expensive with their INSANE shipping. I called the dealer and spent about 20 minutes trying to explain what it was. He couldn't find anything for Rear Toe Links. I had to call back with the part number.

This is a photo of the checkout. $532 for two OEM toe Links.

 

[cammerfe]

Simple solution. Google 'Speedway Motors'. Order their free circle track catalog. Within its pages, you'll find all the components---right-and-left threaded tubing in a variety of lengths, right-and-left threaded Heim ends, and clevises from which to assemble a pair of rear toe links. If you buy the basics, you'll have about $20-25 in the pair. You can get fancy and use ends that are rubber mounted, but for those, you'll likely have to go to the Speedway Street Rod catalog. You'll end up with radius rods much much more heavy-duty that the pencil-diameter stuff from the factory. Yah pays yah monee an' takes yah choice.

KS

 

[MONTE 02 LS]

Great. Similar to the other suspension changes from gen2 LS to the 03+ Stype, this would make sense if they are a bit different based on the same logic. Glad I could guniea pig this and fail.

I should note: I ordered these - Rear Stabilising Link - XR825750 - Aftermarket at www.rimmerbros.co.uk They fit my gen2, but the boots have fallen off the inner ends, and they have play, massive play after about 4,000 mi. Hence me trying out the moogs.

looking for DeviLSh post and stopped here to say my aftermarkets from rimmerbros. were bad too. lasted 2-3 week and then severe tracking issues.

 

[RigsLS]

That's nasty on them Rimmerbro UK Toe adjust linkages. I regret ever sourcing and recommending them.
Will make a point to get them out of my 04 LSE and advise against use going forth.

My bad ... Kudos' Devin.

 

[Broseph]

Simple solution. Google 'Speedway Motors'. Order their free circle track catalog. Within its pages, you'll find all the components---right-and-left threaded tubing in a variety of lengths, right-and-left threaded Heim ends, and clevises from which to assemble a pair of rear toe links. If you buy the basics, you'll have about $20-25 in the pair. You can get fancy and use ends that are rubber mounted, but for those, you'll likely have to go to the Speedway Street Rod catalog. You'll end up with radius rods much much more heavy-duty that the pencil-diameter stuff from the factory. Yah pays yah monee an' takes yah choice.

KS

Replying to this because I’m thinking outside OEM and better quality than aftermarket in replacing my rear toe links. But while looking at this option, this only seems viable for the rear sway links and not the passive toe links.

If I’m mistaken, how are you supposed to accomplish replacing the outer ball joint on the link that is straight (180 degrees) vs a right angle (90). Also, it doesn’t appear a passive option is available but I’d be willing to part with that at the right value (cost and quality) if I can figure out how to assemble one of these correctly.

 

[Jeff M]

If I’m mistaken, how are you supposed to accomplish replacing the outer ball joint on the link that is straight (180 degrees) vs a right angle (90). Also, it doesn’t appear a passive option is available but I’d be willing to part with that at the right value (cost and quality) if I can figure out how to assemble one of these correctly.

You're looking for an inline ball joint. I've checked into it a bit for the Tension Compression rods on an early Datsun Z cars. The most common application appears to be inner tie rod joints and the only ones I've found threaded both sides seems to be in the tractor world. McMaster-Carr has them but they max out with M10x1.5 threads which is pretty small. No passive option using this route of course.

Tractor style one with M18x1.5 threads, should be plenty strong enough. Tie Rod, Inner, Ball Joint To Fit Massey Ferguson® - NEW (Aftermarket)

The one from McMaster-Carr, click on the Inline Ball Joint links McMaster-Carr

 

[RigsLS]

Just wanted to update -

Removed the Rimmerbro links yesterday. Before I did, I noted that if I grabbed the wheel at 3 & 9, I could get it to shift in and out maybe 1/4 - 1/2". :O All movement being observed at the inner end. Took off the links, installed the Moog JADS8881's. Fit like a charm, no more play. Car drove wonderfully on the test drive.

Stay away from the rimmers. I will upload a video of just how little effort was needed to move both ends. Hopefully these moog's last longer.

That's nasty on them Rimmerbro UK Toe adjust linkages. I regret ever sourcing and recommending them.
Will make a point to get them out of my 04 LSE and advise against use going forth.

My bad ... Kudos' Devin.

UPDATE on this, my Rimmerbro UK rear Toe adjust linkages were just fine.
ZERO play, they remain solid in place. Nothing wrong with the ones they send me.
Checked them several months ago just never got around to updating this.

<shrugs>

.