Overheating, p1299, sitting at stealership

izzy

izzy

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00 LS V8 Sport. 69,800 miles.

Started over heating last night. Temp gage raced from normal to redline when getting into stop and go traffic. CEL came on with "check engine temp" and "engine performance decline". Pulled over, pulled code P1299. Cleared code.

Let it sit for about 10 mins, engine off. Cranked up, normal temp on gauge, turned heat on and was able to make it home without another code showing up. Coolant temp anywhere between 210 up to about 225. (10 miles to get home)

This morning same thing. Crept up to 258 before I could get pulled over. Same everything as above. (In only 1.5 miles) Limped to firestone. (Where all my vehicles go) Coolant was low, they did pressure test and pressure was normal. They said that the coolant was low because it was getting so hot it was coming back out of the degas tank. That didn't make since to me. They diagnosed it as the hydraulic fan motor since the fan wasn't kicking up to high. Fan would run just not kick up. They wouldn't touch it since none of the techs had experience with hydraulic fans. Suggested I take it to the dealer. YAY for me.

Pics are just because and from this morning.

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Yes, if the fan isn't working your coolant will boil into steam and be expelled out the pressure relief on the degas cap. Would you rather that it just explode?
(Still, the odds are good that your degas bottle and some other plastic parts need to be replaced if they haven't recently been replaced. This is not your problem right now, but it may be next week after you get the fan fixed.)

At the least your hydraulic fan actuator has failed. This has been covered a thousand times on here...
 
joegr said:
Yes, if the fan isn't working your coolant will boil into steam and be expelled out the pressure relief on the degas cap. Would you rather that it just explode?

At the least your hydraulic fan actuator has failed. This has been covered a thousand times on here...
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No, I would rather no explosions. Thanks, LOL. I'm definitely not any type of certified mechanic and I will admit this car is out of my league mechanically. But I'm pretty good at turning wrenches on the easy stuff. I'm learning in the last 1.5 months of owning this vehicle that it's fickle and is needy. LOL. I'm quite sure it sat for a long time without being driven given that it has less than half the miles on it that it should have for its age.

Yeah I was researching some threads on here last night. Didn't know where I fit since I wasn't able to clearly diagnose it myself.

On a side note, I just got my new coils yesterday and will be changing those and the plugs out tomorrow. I know I can do that myself. :D
 
Be prepared for sticker shock on this from the dealer...
 
joegr said:
Be prepared for sticker shock on this from the dealer...
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They are saying the fan and fan motor are working fine. That is a leaking degas bottle. $800+.

Anything at the stealer ship is nuts.
 
izzy said:
They are saying the fan and fan motor are working fine. That is a leaking degas bottle. $800+.

Anything at the stealer ship is nuts.
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$800 FOR A DEGAS BOTTLE??!?!?!? my god... Do it yourself!! The part is $150 and the write up is EVERY where on here... very easy job - the HARDEST part is getting the clamp off the lower hose!
 
jjcool00 said:
$800 FOR A DEGAS BOTTLE??!?!?!? my god... Do it yourself!! The part is $150 and the write up is EVERY where on here... very easy job - the HARDEST part is getting the clamp off the lower hose!
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$800 with the labor, coolant flush/fill, labor. Not just the bottle.
 
And, if your fan is not kicking to high speed, it won't fix your actual problem. (I don't doubt that you need the degas bottle replaced also.)
 
izzy said:
$800 with the labor, coolant flush/fill, labor. Not just the bottle.
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This will cost you $200 max, if you do it yourself. And even if you're a derp with a wrench take a max of 3 hours.
 
jjcool00 said:
This will cost you $200 max, if you do it yourself. And even if you're a derp with a wrench take a max of 3 hours.
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Not so much a derp. But I got wrenches. I'll have to check the write ups. They said the fan/fan motor is working fine.
 
izzy said:
...They said the fan/fan motor is working fine.
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So, when it was overheating, was the fan really loud? Louder than you ever heard it before, kind of a jet engine noise?

Start the car with the AC off. Turn the AC on. Does the engine fan speed up a good bit (not as much as when overheating, but a good bit more than with the engine cold and the AC off)?

If not, then you have a fan problem too.

Of course, in this case, if you have time there is nothing wrong with fixing one thing at a time.
 
joegr said:
So, when it was overheating, was the fan really loud? Louder than you ever heard it before, kind of a jet engine noise?

Start the car with the AC off. Turn the AC on. Does the engine fan speed up a good bit (not as much as when overheating, but a good bit more than with the engine cold and the AC off)?

If not, then you have a fan problem too.

Of course, in this case, if you have time there is nothing wrong with fixing one thing at a time.
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I refused their services. I'm going to tackle this myself. (fingers crossed)

I couldn't tell any difference in the speed of the fan.
 
I think the "leak" from the degas bottle is just where the coolant is getting so hot it is steaming out and I don't feel like the thermostat is bad either. The more I research this issue, the more I am leaning towards the fan actuator. I am going to do the degas bottle and thermostat too. But won't do those until I do the actuator. I want to see if that is the actual issue like I'm finding more and more evidence of.

Called to 2 Ford dealerships and the part is running $212 before tax. WTH? all the previous posts I'm seeing them at the dealerships for $150 or less.

Can I use the green stuff or do I need to cut off a nut and use the caviar coolant?
 
Prestone extended use universal anti-freeze is just fine.

There are on-line Ford dealers that sell parts at a discount, but I assume that you need them right now.

Don't get the non-Ford (Dorman) degas bottle.
 
izzy said:
Even if I get a lifetime warranty on it?
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Well, if you don't mind changing it out every 6 months, and don't mind the cost of the lost coolant, and don't mind that you might be stranded...
 
joegr said:
Well, if you don't mind changing it out every 6 months, and don't mind the cost of the lost coolant, and don't mind that you might be stranded...
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I should say it isn't dorman. It is from 1aauto.com.

It says it replaces dorman, Hollander and oem.

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izzy said:
I should say it isn't dorman. It is from 1aauto.com.

It says it replaces dorman, Hollander and oem.

...
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I'd bet that it's really the Dorman with a different name stamped on it. Of course, I don't know this for a fact.

The OEM part is around $175, mail order (or $250 retail).
 
joegr said:
I'd bet that it's really the Dorman with a different name stamped on it. Of course, I don't know this for a fact.

The OEM part is around $175, mail order (or $250 retail).
Click to expand...

Agree..... I saw one of those also and even though it said replaces Dorman, it was actually an updated Dorman.
 
To sum up what has already been stated in about 1000 threads, the aftermarket degas bottles are cheaper because they are made thinner... Because they are thinner they don't last long - you'd be lucky to get over 6 months out of one. How do I know? Because I - did not heed the advice of this forum when I first bought my car and replaced mine with the Dorman. 6 Months later I was in complete disbelief that it failed again.

The only positive I could take away from it all was that I can change the degas bottle with my eyes closed now. ALSO, please make sure that after you change any cooling component you follow the tech article above to bleed to air from the system properly. Follow it to the letter.
 
joegr said:
I'd bet that it's really the Dorman with a different name stamped on it. Of course, I don't know this for a fact.

The OEM part is around $175, mail order (or $250 retail).
Click to expand...

They wanted $300 at Parks Lincoln here in Tampa, FL. All the others I'm finding for mail order are between $150 and $280 with only 30 returns or no warranty. I find it hard to not have some kind of warranty to fall back on. Even if it is 5 months down the road.

I'm really not trying to cheap out. I just don't want to get stuck on top of having to pay almost $300 a second time so soon because I'm outside of 30 days.
 
izzy said:
... I just don't want to get stuck on top of having to pay almost $300 a second time so soon because I'm outside of 30 days.
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If the OEM replacement bottle goes for six days, it'll go for six years.
If this is really what's bothering you, go back to the dealer and have them install it. You'll get a good, long warranty that way, but you'll pay for it.
 
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