P0411 2001 3.0 ls

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Towers91

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Hey guys, new here. Just purchased an 01 ls with the 3.0 in it, mint car with 207km on it. Threw 2 codes. 1 for an o2 bank 2 sensor 1, and p0411, the o2 code was easy to deal with, changed out both upstream o2 sensors, now my p0411. The code is for the secondary air system, but my issue is that i cannot find any info on this code linked with an ls, i find info for the taurus, but nothing for this. And knowing this thing clearly isnt a taurus of any breed, i'm gonna assume any credibility to that info being null & void.


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I've read that, but still at a loss for what any of this equipment looks like. Sorry for my noobness.


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Stand by the front passenger side bumper (or lay under the car), have someone start the car. You should hear the pump come on for ~15 seconds after the car starts. My first failure was the connector going to the pump (from a front end accident that allowed the wires to rub on the tire). If the pump runs check out this thread>

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?98179-Secondary-Air-Flow-insufficient-P0411

The electric solenoid is located in front of the crank pulley and needs to be changed by feel since you can't see it from above or below the car.
 
I've gone through, and unhooked what seems to be each individual piece of the secondary air pump system. Tried seeing what codes would throw. Everything i unplugged triggered a different code. Only one i didnt touch would be that one sensor infront of the crank pulley. All of the vacuum seems to be good and strong, again the only piece of the puzzle i couldnt check would be the piece beside that sensor infront of the crank, although the vacuum line seems to have been cut & spliced sometime in the past.


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Also should add in that i can hear the pump work-kindof, not sure what it's supposed to sound like when working properly. But theres a vent/filter below the drivers side headlight that i pulled off and stuck my finger in, it gives off a bit of suction, not comparable to a vacuum line.


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Please do be aware that complete failure (disconnecting) of a component can often trigger a different code than partial failure. For example, disconnecting the EGR assembly will trigger a different set of codes than the typical EGR assembly failure does. P0411 does not indicate complete failure. It indicates that something is a little off.
 
Hm would the 0411 not be a pending code if it was throwing a solid code? Say a p1414 for sake of argument


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Also, from the thread posted here, and another thread posted in that thread, i've decided i'm gonna try and replace the diverter valve? Dorman part 600-400, picked it up today, surprisingly it was in stock at my parts store who typically has no ford/lincoln parts. Gonna swap it out on my lunch and see what the verdict is.


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I've changed the solenoid down by the crank. Now i'm getting a p0301. Any clue? I've checked everything over from the things i touched. Developed once i changed out the sensor. Dorman 600-400


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Would that be the case though, wouldnt a vacuum leak cause the misfire?


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And if so, do i need new upper intake gaskets when i do the coil replacement or can i reuse the old?


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Certainly could, but rarely on a specific cylinder. COPs becoming marginal, on the other hand, is not so rare.
 
Thought I would mention it was interesting to see that Rock Auto is dropping the MC DG529. Just got a email last week of the closeouts they are doing, and it was on there. As of today they have 1 left. Maybe they realized that its pointless to stock the SMP and the Motorcraft.

So far my Delphis seem very good, longevity is the next question.
 
So i replaced the COP with a new one, pulled the intake, did the 3 plugs & just replaced the one coil, put it back together and now it wont fire up... I've double and triple checked all of my connections, gapped all of the plugs and still nothing, it has fuel, havent checked for spark yet, but i'd assume it's there... Any idea where to look?


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I'd first verify that it is pulsing the injectors and coils. Make sure you didn't pinch any of the wiring to those and short it to ground. Check the COP and injector fuses.
 
I found my issue, wasnt getting spark, changed out my coils and tested a known working coil, turned out it blew a 10 amp fuse.


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I've blown that fuse... twice. Scared the crap out of me the first time. It was when I first got the car and doing my first serious car repair (coils+VCGs). I fired it up before I finished putting it back together. When I went to install bucket for the cabin air intake, it popped through the firewall/shock tower brace opening with speed and force, slamming the big wiring bracket there causing it to slide, which then sliced into and shorted the COP wires. The car died, I puckered, and it wouldn't start. Sure enough, it was just a blown fuse.

About 6 months later, I had replaced some of the broken COP connectors, used heat shrink, then went out for a drive. When I hit the gas to cross an intersection, it lurched, then died, with a couple of ignition knocks. I checked the fuse on a hunch, replaced it, went back home and taped everything over with several layers. I learned about the limitations of heat shrink and pointy soldered wires, as well as what the deep metallic clunking noise is that movies play when cars die while driving.
 
Car still has a miss, but no codes are being thrown for it, only when its under harder acceleration though, gonna go pass an emissions today, then see if i cant make a code throw. I'm hoping its just a vac leak.


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All coils and all plugs need to be replaced. OEM stuff. Double check coil click connectors.

Change the fuel and air intake filters. STP injector cleaner in the tank.
 
Ya gotta kick em in the rear end to make it drink?

Yeah ....
 
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