Question for anyone w/cross-drilled and slotted rotors

01lssport

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Well yesterday I put a set of cross-drilled and slotted rotor, new pads and painted the callipers. I had to let the calipers dry for 24 hour. Today I took it for a drive and it sounds like SH!T. The brakes are rubbing constatly on the rotors. Is this suppose to happen? Are the slots on the rotors suppose to rotate in a certain direction? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will not drive the car if it continues to sound so horrible. Thanks in advance.
 
yes - the slots are directional.

Did you cut the front and back edges of the brake pads on an angle? Some pads come that way - while many (especially performance pads) do not - expecting you to do it as part of the installation.

if you didn't the sharp leading edge may be catching the edge of the slots...
 
You'll love this one. So I take all the wheels off the car and start looking for something out of the ordinary. Turns out that on the driver-side front I had bent the brake dust sheild. It was rubbing on the rotor making the loudest noise. Just thought everyone would get a kick out of that story. Thanks for the help.
 
Does it stop any better than with the factory brakes? Just curious. Also, what rotors did you buy? Cost?
 
Ya I understand that slotted/drilled rotors may increase braking power, but I am curious if these sets for $200ish on Ebay are going to hold up. Anyone had experience with these?
 
Motodrew said:
Are they still holding up their shine?
Shine? The surface the pads contact are "shined" every time I apply the brakes. The edges are still rust free.
 
whatsupadrian said:
If you don't want your rotors to rust right away then you should get the zinc plated ones right?


The braking surface will always rust. After all, it is cast iron. The non-braking sueface is still rust free. The zinc coating helps the non-braking surface from showing rust. The rotors I bought are zinc plated.
 
Just a thought, but did you re-grease the caliper pins?? That will have a bearing on noise also if a caliper isn't fully releasing.

Also, keep a close eye on the rotors. I don't advocate using a cross drilled rotor in ANY street car. They're extremely prone to cracking and can pose a serious safety threat. Heck, even my buddy with a VERY expensive Baer setup on his 95 Z28 has cracking after just a few hundred miles.

Slotted and dimpled is a great compromise (I run this on one of my Trans Am's), slotted alone will do you just fine.
 
JC1994 said:
what brand were they? I just got a set from R1 concepts, for my Mark VIII for 140.00.


IIRC, they were from iRotors.
 
Im debating on what set to buy on ebay..They are pretty cheap but alot hearing alot of negatives about drilled...The brembo ones look nice, so what is the best to get guys, Slotted not drilled or what?
 
Anything that is NOT drilled. You'll be replacing the rotors every few hundred miles.

Brembo makes good discs. Blanks are fine, slotted will stay a bit cooler, clean the pad better, but also chew through it a little quicker. Same thing with slotted and dimpled (if you can find that) except that's pure eye candy without the cracking of a drilled rotor.
 
I agree......
see!!!

good looking.jpg
 
SO you guys say no or yes to drilled?? Brembo makes quality stuff so I wouldnt think any of that would crack...
 
Heat = Cracks

Just about every form of metallic brake rotor will crack. The reason that it is usually more noticable on drilled rotors is due to the fact that most people who have drilled rotors tend to be a little more spirited with their driving. They also have a tendancy to get their rotors and brakes hotter and then not cool them sufficiently before putting the car in the garage or parking. Many times I have pulled next to a performance car in a parking lot, and could actually feel the heat from tha rotors as I walked past. I have had slotted, drilled, and slotted and drilled rotors on most of my vehicles over the past 15 years and I can say from experience that if they are taken care of, they will outlast and provide better stopping capabilities than plain rotors. The only reasons that the slots or holes are put in the rotors is to allow the gasses to escape from between the rotors and pads under braking pressures. They will also help to dissipate the heat, but it is the design of the fins in between the actual braking surfaces that do the majority of the heat dissipation. Rotors are almost always directional in nature and if you or your friends are experiencing severe cracking of slotted and or drilled rotors, this is the first place to check. As a brake tech for many years, I can tell you that plain rotors usually have more cracking than slotted or drilled rotors, it just usually does not show as well due to the dragging effect of the pads on the rotors. In effect the metal is dragged into the cracks at high temps and the rotors look like they are smooth. Look at them under a magnifying glass and this will become apparent.

If drilled and or slotted rotors are so bad as stated, then why do all of the high performance and exotic cars have them factory installed?? I have never seen a viper or Ferrari without them.
 
as I said - I have had mine for two years now - I'm not easy on brakes - 40,000 miles - fourth set of pads, fourth set of tires.

My drilled/slotted rotors are fine.
 
I had factory installed slotted rotors on in Dodge Viper R/T10 for 7 years wothout any problems and I wasn't exactly easy on them.
 
If you buy them on eBay, they are Chinese!

i-Rotors and R1 are all Chinese GARBAGE rotors that are the cheapest on the PLANET from China! Why would you even consider that on a Lincoln?

They are JUNK! They are $5-8 each from China.....= manufacturing cost of $1-$3 EACH!

Get a clue man!

You'll put your safety and that of others on the line because of some good deal on eBay that YOU know is wrong?
 

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