Quick TStat question

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cwhorley

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When I've replaced a thermostat on other vehicles I had to gob up the housing with sealant. I took the housing off the ls an it doesn't look like there was a gasket or sealant or anything. I'm guessing there's not a gasket but do I apply sealant or no?
 
Thanks. I hate to be this guy but I've seen a hundred posts referring to bleeding the cooling system but none with step by step. Can anyone help with a link to the post I'm missing?
 
Your instant self-realization has saved you from severe hazing. Congratulations.
 
Fedex just dropped off my Jag Aluminum T-Stat housing to replace the plastic OEM crap on my 02 LSE V8 this weekend.

Probably a stupid question, but does the same apply for me? No sealant & no gasket?

Thanks in advance. You folks rock!
 
hard2say said:
Fedex just dropped off my Jag Aluminum T-Stat housing to replace the plastic OEM crap on my 02 LSE V8 this weekend.

Probably a stupid question, but does the same apply for me? No sealant & no gasket?

Thanks in advance. You folks rock!
Click to expand...

Looks like you already got yours installed, but in case anyone hits this in the future: you do NOT need sealant on the thermostat housing on Gen 1 or Gen 2. O-ring or rubber based seals do not need sealant except where separate ones butt into each other, such as on the timing cover.
 
yep no sealant, I used only the O - ring when i replaced my tstat.


to drain your cooling system, its just a little white hex had plastic screw, on the bottom right side of your radiator. Open this, and your de-gas bottle, and the system will drain in around 15 minutes. Sqeeuze the rad hose next to the water pump if you want a good drain.
 
royalT said:
...and the system will drain in around 15 minutes. Sqeeuze the rad hose next to the water pump if you want a good drain.
Click to expand...

Actually only a little over half or so of the coolant will drain out. The passages in the engine will remain filled.
 
To be honest, i pumped every hose when I was doing the water pump tstat and belt.

I got a GOOD amount out, more than I could put back in..
 
royalT said:
To be honest, i pumped every hose when I was doing the water pump tstat and belt.

I got a GOOD amount out, more than I could put back in..
Click to expand...

Yes, I imagine that removing the water pump would allow more coolant to drain. I certainly hope that you followed the factory fill and bleed procedure to get all of the coolant back in.
 
No i did not. I did a simple flush of rad and some of the plumbing, and simply poured the coolant back into the degas, idled until Tstat opened, poored more.

Simple top up after the next following drives, so the rad got filled, and the heater core and block got filled etc.
 
royalT said:
No i did not. I did a simple flush of rad and some of the plumbing, and simply poured the coolant back into the degas, idled until Tstat opened, poored more.

Simple top up after the next following drives, so the rad got filled, and the heater core and block got filled etc.
Click to expand...

You should be good by now then. I think that the factory procedure would have been easier.
 
Even though I have the repair manual, I never looked up the proper technique haha.

Care to share?
 
probably first.

ive replaced

- alt
- Water pump
- serpetine belt twice
- battery
- tstat
- regulators

nothing else to major at the top of my head. Alot of these components have the tendencies i find to be highly under engineered, only lasting for a period which the part is warrentied. Mostly talkimg about their " Fail safe windows regulators " <- as advertised.

2001 gen 1 i asusme.
 
Last edited:
Gen 1 is 2000-2002, Gen 2 is 2003-2006.
Check the "Tech Articles" link at the top of the page, then "draining the Ls cooling system".
The LS does not have a typical cooling system.
 
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