REAL OFFICIAL LINCOLN LS OWNERS GUIDE!!!! Basic tips and info.

Robot said:
For such a high compression engine, I am still perplexed why the rpm hangs when I blip the throttle. I don't remember my 1gen acting like this. Does anyone else experience this?
Click to expand...

What do you mean by this exactly? Are you doing this in park or neutral?
The gen II has electronic throttle control. There is no physical connection between the gas pedal and the throttle. The PCM takes the gas pedal position as an indication of how much power the driver wants. It then uses the throttle, the transmission gear, and other engine controls to accomplish what the driver wants. In park or neutral, the system goes into a diagnostic mode that gives very slow throttle response and limits engine RPM.
 
joegr said:
What do you mean by this exactly? Are you doing this in park or neutral?
The gen II has electronic throttle control. There is no physical connection between the gas pedal and the throttle. The PCM takes the gas pedal position as an indication of how much power the driver wants. It then uses the throttle, the transmission gear, and other engine controls to accomplish what the driver wants. In park or neutral, the system goes into a diagnostic mode that gives very slow throttle response and limits engine RPM.
Click to expand...

I do this in park or neutral. I understand the limit on rpm but, I would expect the rpm to drop immediately or almost so. Now, when I do it, the rpm stays for a couple of seconds before it drops to idle.
 
Robot said:
I do this in park or neutral. I understand the limit on rpm but, I would expect the rpm to drop immediately or almost so. Now, when I do it, the rpm stays for a couple of seconds before it drops to idle.
Click to expand...

Normal operation.
 
LS4me said:
Normal operation.
Click to expand...

I figured as much. I wonder how much extra fuel is being burned because of that. In town driving kills mpg and I was trying to figure out some way to help that. I don't see any reason to burn fuel when its not required like when coasting. I guess I expected it to freewheel when off throttle.
 
Robot said:
... I don't see any reason to burn fuel when its not required like when coasting. I guess I expected it to freewheel when off throttle.
Click to expand...

In gear, above a certain speed, when coasting no fuel at all is consumed. The PCM shuts all fuel injectors off and lets the momentum of the car turn the engine.

Please note that the slow throttle response only happens in park or neutral!
 
Once when I was younger and more foolish than I am these days, I got so (too) close to a speeding greyhound bus in the fast lane with my Camaro Z28 when suddenly I realized I didn't even have to have my foot on the accelerator pedal to maintain the high rate of speed we were traveling at.

It was a 5 speed manual with the four bolt main, I recall popping it in neutral while performing this careless drifting technique.

It was fun for a little while but I got of his tail when fear of either sudden death or reckless-driving/following-too-close tickets came to mind.


~ not advised!
 
If you must get service done at the dealer and they rotate your tires, for God's sake take your own torque wrench. Those gorillas insist on using impact wrenches and they will over torque your lug nuts. One of the reasons I don't go to the dealer anymore is because they torqued some of my nuts to almost 300 ft lbs and damaged some of the nuts on two wheels.

Sticky Please!
 
Hey everyone,

I stumbled upon this (Ford of Europe) website: http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do while looking for information about key compatibility when I switched to keys with the remote built into the head a few months back, anyway I went back and started digging around on this website this evening and on a whim entered my VIN number for my 06 LS on the vehicle lookup page; low and behold it came back with the full build details (sans the actual build codes unfortunately) so I figure that it may also decode the VIN numbers of other US built Ford/Mercury/Lincoln vehicles, best of all there is no login, no money and no waiting.

I have no idea how far back or how extensive this may be so perhaps everyone could spread this info far and wide and let's see how deep the rabbit hole goes...
 
Remind your significant others to put premium only in the tank!
 
Hello
! My name is Tim. My father has a 2001 LS with about 178000 miles on it and its the love of his life! I am a diesel mechanic and he has the timing chain noise so I was going to do the chains, guides, . . . . . for him. Have all the parts but the torque to yield cam sprocket and crank dampener bolts. Call the dealer and they are about $35 a piece and I am told I will have to order them from all over the us. Joined this forum hoping to get some advise and hopefully a source!! Any help would be great!!
 
timwc3e4 said:
Hello
! My name is Tim. My father has a 2001 LS with about 178000 miles on it and its the love of his life! I am a diesel mechanic and he has the timing chain noise so I was going to do the chains, guides, . . . . . for him. Have all the parts but the torque to yield cam sprocket and crank dampener bolts. Call the dealer and they are about $35 a piece and I am told I will have to order them from all over the us. Joined this forum hoping to get some advise and hopefully a source!! Any help would be great!!
Click to expand...

Time for a rabbit trail.....

My mom was raised in Tacoma. I remember visiting my great-grand parents (first here from Norway on my mom's side) in the mid-60's. They were getting the secondary streets paved for the first time!! Believe it or not, I kind of miss the smell of the pulp mills!!

What loud said......
 
ls4me said:
p0304, p0308, p1234....... 32-18-24..... 6733, 1200, 1236, 7500, 7600.....
Click to expand...



ahah.gif


Code: 
1110011 1110011 0011001 0011001 100111 100111 010111 010111 ...
 
zrxinch said:
tried using super glue on mine and it did not work, ended up using a soldering iron to "re-melt" the plastic around the screw studs. worked great.

also for addition to the thread:

For the AUDIO setups with the SUB in the rear deck, there is a harness that supplies the left and right sub (low input that can be tied into RCA pigtails for low amp input) and a remote amp turn-on that can be used for trunk "box" setups. that way you dont have to tie into the fuel pump power for a switched input. (the harness has a yellow wire on the end #9 that is remote turn on from the deck.)

The great part is that even the cars that have the "factory sub delete" (for weight reduction purposes they say) still have this same harness.

-This is for the GenI Alpine 6 disc with or without rear deck subs-
Click to expand...


What harness is it? I'm planning a build really soon with a set of 10" subs, as well as a double din DVD Nav unit. Taking out the factory Alpine 6-disc changer. I have the subs in the rear deck alpine edition.
 
What kind of Octane gas do you guys use? I'm using the Shell 91 "V-Power" gas
 
91 chevron, mobile, or shell

Send using Tapatalk on
Samsung Galaxy S4 SPH-L720
WICKED X 10.8 Rom
Android Lollipop 5.0.1
Aurora Kernel
 
markjc said:
What kind of Octane gas do you guys use? I'm using the Shell 91 "V-Power" gas
Click to expand...

COSTCO 91 (the highest octane pump-gas available in The People's Republik). I'd go higher if I could. I always stick w/Top Tier...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 123 (members: 0, guests: 123)
Back
Top