Rear Brake Tool

5.7sbc

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I'm going to be doing my brakes this week and have a quick question before I get started. The tool used for the rear brakes . . . is this the same tool used on the Ford Taurus SHO's or is it something else? A picture of the tool required would be very helpful if some one could provide. Thanks
 
go to your local auto parts store and ask them for a brake piston tool for a screw type caliper, they probably will loan you one.
 
well I might already have the tool I just want to make sure its the right one
 
yeah it is the cube shaped one. Will that work or is it something different?
 
that will work - but it harder to use since you can't get a lot of pressure down on it.

The best tool looks like this - >
grn27111003.jpg

where it fits into the caliper and has a backing plate that runs up against the caliper housing to give you the torque you need.
 
the cubed shape one works but it notice it doesn't quite fit the ls right. it'll get the job done but be prepared to be frustrated.
 
5.7sbc said:
I'm going to be doing my brakes this week and have a quick question before I get started. The tool used for the rear brakes . . . is this the same tool used on the Ford Taurus SHO's or is it something else? A picture of the tool required would be very helpful if some one could provide.
When I put the Porterfields on my '04, I used the same tool that I used on my '95 SHO. It worked perfectly. It has a two-sided disc, not a cube, though.
 
the cube drove me NUTS on one side...I mean NUTS. Couldnt get it seated properly, the nubs didnt seem to have enough depth, couldnt get enough torque.

The on the other side...it seemed to plop right in...and after a couple of turns...kept applying pressure at just the right spot, and voila. Go figure.
 
Oh..I had better luck placing the caliper on its side against the rotor I think, and using that for a stable backing while I pressed down on the piston while turning
 
Have a round one that goes on a 1/2 square drive.
It looks exactly like the one for my Mustang GT rear brakes but the size of the notches is different, the mustang one will not fit the LS.

IIRC I pulled the caliper off, removed the spent pads, flipped it over and installed a longer bolt from the parts store from the pad side of the caliper. that anchored the pistion side of the caliper against inside of the rotor. Then I could easily press down on the ratchet and turn in the screw.

I also did not turn the piston all the way in, instead I held the new pads up agains the faces of the rotor and using my toolbox "Junk" caliper I got the thickness measurement, then I only turned the pistons back in enough to allow the inner measure side of the caliper to just fit.
then after the deglazing of the rotors everything slid home nice and neat.

Oh and so you know I call the toolbox caliper the 'Junk' one because the markings got all scratched beyond reading. But it is useful in these sort of instances.
 
Quik LS said:
that will work - but it harder to use since you can't get a lot of pressure down on it.

The best tool looks like this - >
grn27111003.jpg

where it fits into the caliper and has a backing plate that runs up against the caliper housing to give you the torque you need.

That's a nice set Quik. Who makes it? I think I'll get one.
 
Is the caliper tool required to do the rear brakes?

I did the front brakes on my 2004 LS the old fashioned way just using a big C clamp and a block of wood to compress the piston. Would this work on the rears?

I recall I had trouble with an 89 SHO way back where I couldn't compress the rear pistons so maybe this was the problem.

Thanks,

Jim Henderson
 
correct - the rear caliper piston is wound back into the caliper - not pushed (because of the integrated emergency brake mechanism. It is very tough the first time.

the piston has a couple of notches in it that the tools lines up with to allow it to be screwed back in.

it is not uncommon to have to 'break it loose' with a set of pilers first - being careful not to damage the piston.
 
Thanks for the line Quik. I'm going to go get that for that price. Even if it breaks every couple of jobs you're money ahead!
 
Well that cube tool is a PITA! You guys were right, I scrapped that thing in favor of a pair of needle nose. So much easier!!! I will never use that cube again!! OH, and the brakes went great and were no trouble at all except . . . . I didn't notice the caliper slides on the rear drivers side (last one before complete) were frozen solid! No grease just rust!! I used every trick I could think of and still can't brake them loose, I used PB, flame, slide hammer, a 10lb sledge, vise grips, screaming, yelling, scaring the neighbors nothing worked. So now I have to wait till tomorrow morning for the parts store to get the parts in.:( Oh and its only another $75 to complete the job. Great huh?:mad:
 
Try re-mounting the caliper by hand tightening the bolts. Get a piece of 4x4 that is long enough to reach from the floor to the backside of the caliper so that when you push against the caliper with "the tool" the 4x4 is wedged against the frame. Took me about 2 minutes to screw in the caliper with the universal square tool.
 

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