Rear hub redrill

R

Right on the Mark

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I wanted to get the 4.500 B.C. on back of car to fit some new rims. Like always didn't want to spend ANY money cuz I bought the rims. (had to match fronts) I didn't want to take hubs off car. I was thinking gotta make drill fixture then was like already made 2. Grabbed the front wheel adapters I made and made steel drill bushings to thread in.

Ok I'm going to have to make a disclaimer here because this is my car and I work on it how I please. This write up does not imply that this is the only way to do this or the best way.Just way I did it. That said,on we go


Adapters with steel drill bushings.
005_zpsdd10910c.jpg


On and ready to center drill then drill .312.
008_zps42aaa7f8.jpg


Here's all holes drilled. center drill, then .312, .400, .515. The rear studs have a .600 dia that presses into hub. I didn't want to drill holes that large so I pulled all studs out of extra front hubs. The holes for those are .515.
009_zpsb6a12444.jpg


Here are rims on. They are 15x8 with 5.5 back spacing.
012_zpsef9e3e9f.jpg


This was the closest spot that will need some clearance. No biggie 45 and it will have 1/4 clearance.
014_zpsf4098fd5.jpg


Going to make some new hub rings tomorrow to finish up.
 
very nice. how did you get the studs in it though? it doesnt look like enough room to press in from the back?
 
Wait, so what you are saying is grab a spacer that has both our lug pattern (108) & then Mustang bolt pattern(114), install it on the hub, drill new holes where the Mustang holes are on the spacer, uninstall the spacer, take off the old bolts from the hub, install them in the newly drilled holes & voila?
 
mossbergman said:
very nice. how did you get the studs in it though? it doesnt look like enough room to press in from the back?
Click to expand...

I would put them in there as far as I can then pull them slowly by tightening them with the nut from the front side. The more you tighten, the more it pulls the bolt in.

I really like this idea.
 
UltimateSVT said:
Wait, so what you are saying is grab a spacer that has both our lug pattern (108) & then Mustang bolt pattern(114), install it on the hub, drill new holes where the Mustang holes are on the spacer, uninstall the spacer, take off the old bolts from the hub, install them in the newly drilled holes & voila?
Click to expand...

yep

i wish i had that spacer to redrill rotors with..
 
UltimateSVT said:
Wait, so what you are saying is grab a spacer that has both our lug pattern (108) & then Mustang bolt pattern(114), install it on the hub, drill new holes where the Mustang holes are on the spacer, uninstall the spacer, take off the old bolts from the hub, install them in the newly drilled holes & voila?
Click to expand...

You have to make steel drill bushings to guide the center drill. I takes some time to do all the drilling also. I forgot to mention I went thru with .150 drill after center drill. If you try to use an alum spacer for guide the drill will eat it up.
 
mossbergman said:
very nice. how did you get the studs in it though? it doesnt look like enough room to press in from the back?
Click to expand...

Whats nice is the front studs(mk8) I used have a flat machined on the back dia that stops the stud from pulling thru. You have to bang out the old rear studs because there a tight fit and drag coming out. New ones go in super easy from the larger B.C.
 
chris2523 said:
this is also only gonna work in the rear. no go for the front.
Click to expand...

The front hubs I pulled off parts 97 car don't have super thin hub in spots that are not where studs are. But there is not a little bit of built up material that makes back of hub "flat" where you would want to drill new stud hole for stud to seat to.
 
That's how I did my rears since I didn't have time to have the car down. Only difference was I made the drill jig and my bushings weren't threaded. I swapped the fronts.

Partially finished adapter.

P1010001.jpg


I used Mustang studs, and pulled them in with an impact using a long lug nut and a couple of greased washers.
 
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The front hubs I took off my 96 are thinner and tapered in the area that would need drilled for the new studs.

like this...

1271906194328_hz_myalibaba_web13_854.jpg
 
So right on the mark what size tire is going in the rear? Height width and cross section? I'm guessing since those are weld pro stars you will have some sort of dot slick or drag radial? How about fronts? Skinny front runners driller style?
 
So please clarify, you are using the adaptor on the front right? Why not use an adaptor on the rear? Cost?

So without an adaptor on the rear is the front wider with the wheels and tires on the car?

If I sent you an adaptor would you make more of these?

I too an looking for the simplest form to run the 4.5" spacing and I do not care to update the brakes as I have no need to do so the stock brakes are fine.

Would it be easiest to swap the front hubs, (bolt on) and then run adaptors on the rear? I do not know and looking for input here.

I suppose having adaptors on the rear will put more stress on the whole system when launching it at the track!
 
Its not a adapter, its a guide to re drill your rear hubs for a mustang bolt circle.
The front you swap to mustang hubs.

It opens your choice for wheels.
He used a adapter to make the guide because he is cheap and wont drop the coin on mustang rear hubs :)
 
90boss said:
I do not care to update the brakes as I have no need to do so the stock brakes are fine.
Click to expand...

So.. a smaller car on the same chassis uses larger brakes, and you think a Marks are sufficient? How - explain your lack of thought
 
90boss said:
So please clarify, you are using the adaptor on the front right? Why not use an adaptor on the rear? Cost?

So without an adaptor on the rear is the front wider with the wheels and tires on the car?

If I sent you an adaptor would you make more of these?

I too an looking for the simplest form to run the 4.5" spacing and I do not care to update the brakes as I have no need to do so the stock brakes are fine.

Would it be easiest to swap the front hubs, (bolt on) and then run adaptors on the rear? I do not know and looking for input here.

I suppose having adaptors on the rear will put more stress on the whole system when launching it at the track!
Click to expand...

you can run the 4.5" stang pattern with stock mark viii brakes if you want. i did for awhile.
 
Sapperfire said:
So.. a smaller car on the same chassis uses larger brakes, and you think a Marks are sufficient? How - explain your lack of thought
Click to expand...

I can relate..I'm not going to ever be road racing my car, I use it as a daily driver, stock brakes work just fine for me as well.
 
double-facepalm_zpsf4957f72.jpg


If you could have ONE upgrade on your car... why in the he!! wouldn't it be the ONLY system that brings your car to a stop and possibly save your life.. helping you live longer
 
Sapperfire said:
double-facepalm_zpsf4957f72.jpg


If you could have ONE upgrade on your car... why in the he!! wouldn't it be the ONLY system that brings your car to a stop and possibly save your life.. helping you live longer
Click to expand...

when it comes down to it, in a panic brake situation these cars will just lock up the fronts anyway regardless of braking power..the abs sucks..also helps to not drive like an a$$hole to keep yourself out of those kind of situations in the first place..
 
Sapperfire said:
So.. a smaller car on the same chassis uses larger brakes, and you think a Marks are sufficient? How - explain your lack of thought
Click to expand...

Whats there to explain, it stops fine. Aside from guys on forums like this, none of the marks will have or ever had brake upgrades. What percentage of Marks do you suppose ever had a brake upgrade relative to the number of them ever made? less then .05% would be my guess.
 
Every time I hear the word "stock" I think "budgetted" because that's what most factories do. If there's better to be had, I want it.... because better
 
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