Rear hub redrill

ford nut said:
Its not a adapter, its a guide to re drill your rear hubs for a mustang bolt circle.
The front you swap to mustang hubs.

It opens your choice for wheels.
He used a adapter to make the guide because he is cheap and wont drop the coin on mustang rear hubs :)
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I understand what he did, wish I could buy the drill guide to do this. I just do not have the tooling to make my own.

Then swap in front sn95's, drill the back and be done. I did find some adaptors on ebay so I may swap the fron and do the adaptors on the back.

I would suppose the new rims should then be 17's plus.
 
Sapperfire said:
Every time I hear the word "stock" I think "budgetted" because that's what most factories do. If there's better to be had, I want it.... because better
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It's the American way!
Not to mention drilling the stock rotors to a mustang pattern is silly when factory upgrade parts can be had fairly cheap these days.
 
right on the mark

97MarkJA said:
It's the American way!
Not to mention drilling the stock rotors to a mustang pattern is silly when factory upgrade parts can be had fairly cheap these days.
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because rightonthemark does things like this and does it well -- he can!

friends don't let friends drive drunk.jpg
 
JAX.TRUX said:
because rightonthemark does things like this and does it well -- he can!
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Hmmm.. my comment was directed at the brake upgrade not the hub drilling.
When I rebuilt the rear end and suspension I put new hub bearings in, if I were to hub swap I'd be looking to do it just like he did.
Right on the mark does great work, if I had the depth of machinists skills he has I'd never leave the garage.
 
keVIIIn said:
So right on the mark what size tire is going in the rear? Height width and cross section? I'm guessing since those are weld pro stars you will have some sort of dot slick or drag radial? How about fronts? Skinny front runners driller style?
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Alot of guys just call me ROTM for short now lol Faster to spell out. The rear tires are used M/T 26x8.5 slicks I bought for 40 bucks. The new rear rims are not Welds there knock offs from Ultra. Not paying 400 plus for 2 welds The fronts I stole off my stang.
007-3.jpg

The reason for the front adapters is really because with the large cobra rotors and calipers you have to space the rim OUT to clear the large cobra stuff because of the small 15 inch rim size. And since I had to have spacer I could now make it bolt on to 4.250 bc and have 4.500 bc where front runner mounts all in one shot.
 
90boss said:
So please clarify, you are using the adaptor on the front right? Why not use an adaptor on the rear? Cost?

So without an adaptor on the rear is the front wider with the wheels and tires on the car?

If I sent you an adaptor would you make more of these?

I too an looking for the simplest form to run the 4.5" spacing and I do not care to update the brakes as I have no need to do so the stock brakes are fine.

Would it be easiest to swap the front hubs, (bolt on) and then run adaptors on the rear? I do not know and looking for input here.

I suppose having adaptors on the rear will put more stress on the whole system when launching it at the track!
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Yes adapter on front ONLY, to mount my 15 inch front runners on. Not on the rear because I want to run 8 inch wide rim with 5.5 back spacing and not have it stick out past wheel well. In pics you can see that these are in as far as can be with 15 inch rim.
The easiest way is yes hub swap up front these come off in minutes. The rear hub swap is more involved IE undoing control arms pulling axles pressing out hubs. Plus I could NOT find any adapter 4.250 to 4.500 anyways.
 
97MarkJA said:
Hmmm.. my comment was directed at the brake upgrade not the hub drilling.
When I rebuilt the rear end and suspension I put new hub bearings in, if I were to hub swap I'd be looking to do it just like he did.
Right on the mark does great work, if I had the depth of machinists skills he has I'd never leave the garage.
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LoL you never leave the garage now!

Frank is a kick ass machinist/fabricator.
Look forward to all his write ups.
 
ford nut said:
LoL you never leave the garage now!

Frank is a kick ass machinist/fabricator.
Look forward to all his write ups.
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Lol.. not true, I work 12 hrs a day or so, sleep about 4.5... And I don't have a bed in the garage yet.
Although it has been threatened I will end up sleeping with my car.
 
.. eh its like sleeping in a leather recliner..not too bad. Lol
 
ROTM, ever think about renting out your jig with the bushings in it to let others do what you did? I would be interested...
 
DieselDan said:
ROTM, ever think about renting out your jig with the bushings in it to let others do what you did? I would be interested...
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I have but then I would have to supply all center drills and drills. These would get killed all the time. I had to resharpen many times during the drilling. I have been searching Ebay for hardened drill bushings where one fixture would take all the same OD bushings but all the different ID sizes needed. I keep looking.
 
Damn I was gonna do this when I was in need of doing a red-rill of my rear hubs. Now that I have another Mark and my truck as spare cars I should really get off my A$$ and do something :rolleyes:
 
I know that this an old thread, but a great one anyway.

I have a jig for redrilling the rear hubs, was wondering how important it will be for a hub centric ring, and how you overcame that.

I figured the tapered lug nuts will take care of the wheel being on center, but hub centric would help bear the load.

Any advice?
 
DieselDan said:
I know that this an old thread, but a great one anyway.

I have a jig for redrilling the rear hubs, was wondering how important it will be for a hub centric ring, and how you overcame that.

I figured the tapered lug nuts will take care of the wheel being on center, but hub centric would help bear the load.

Any advice?
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I make these. They are for my 2000 GT rims. I don't like plastic like all the store bought ones are. Sloppy fit and soft. When I run the Welds I don't use hub rings because the str8 shanks hold it and nothing will change that.
000_0170.jpg
 
It's really simple, just smack them once or twice with a small hammer.
 
i'm sure it's up there and I missed it, but after the rear stock hub is re-drilled, what holds the new lugs in place? the factory stud/hub union has splines, yes?
 
dnsherrill said:
i'm sure it's up there and I missed it, but after the rear stock hub is re-drilled, what holds the new lugs in place? the factory stud/hub union has splines, yes?
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The splines are on the LUGS. The lug spline area is little larger then the hole drilled. This creates a press fit. Holes have to be drilled correct size.
 
I paint resurrecting old post but what size hub centric ring is needed I was told 17mm but since you've made your own I was toying with using the 4.25 adapter to 4.5 in thehub varied from 70 to 74 mm .I found that information on American muscles website under wheel hub spacers they don't offer pattern changes. I found another site with the pattern changes but still have hub center bore varience issues.Chris mentioned theme arcade hub at 63. Something millimetersthere's only a few people opinion I respect around here since you've been around longer than I have and have done most of the things I want to and by the way are you going to still use those or are they still on the shelf? even thoughI will probably end up drilling the rotors and hubs anyway but the same situation will arrise, no?you said you didn't use the Rings on the rears because the shanks will hold them in place so you would only use the hub centric rings with the spacer or adapter?about what hub centric ring to use and how does it go inside the rim or in the hole around hub.any pics?I was trying to search all your previous posts: but didn't get yours but a mix I checked the box that says hoes put your name in the second box with post from user,but what do I put in the upper box for search and the lower box 4 tagged to pull up all your thread?you explain this in an old red and followed exact directions but there's No second arrow Ben supposed to pop up where you can write all threads started by user
 
Rings can vary with rims. The one dia that stays the same is the ID of ring because that's the cars hub and never changes. The rim maker can make the ID of their rims any size they want. So you have to know the ID of your rims to find out what rings you need. I use the rings on all my STREET rims. The Weld rims are drag rims and the lug shanks hold rim concentric.
 
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