Rear Radius Rod---Passive steer delete---Fabrication help

[cammerfe]

I've got a 'bootie shake' sort of motion to the rear of my '02. Since there is no noise associated, such as might indicate a loose rear cradle, I'm guessing that the radius rods with their compliant 'give' sections have finally 'gone south'. I have 152 K miles on the car.

As I noted in another thread recently, tubing with swedged threaded ends is readily available from circle track suppliers in half-inch increments and in various sizes. Creating replacements only requires dimensions from the factory parts. Threaded rod screwed into one end of the tube and a tie-rod-end or Heim joint screwed into the other and bob's-your-uncle.

The difficulty is that the car is required, due to family schedules, to be used on a daily basis. Therefore it's not possible to remove a rod to get the dimensions necessary.

Can someone supply OAL and threaded diameters for me? I'll do a write-up including sources when I get to that point.

Thanks!

KS

 

[cammerfe]

I'll add that, if necessary, I'll buy one any of you have laying around after you did a replacement and take measurements myself---if necessary. Although not quite in the 'emergency' category, This IS a priority project. Thanks!

KS

 

[Kumba]

Why not just get the Deeza JAL607? it's a toe-link that's already made and it has no collapsible bushing in it. They're $84 on rock auto right now.

 

[cammerfe]

Much less deflection to the tubular part and the cost to assemble my own is less than half of the cost of the RA part. Less than $15 each for the tubes. Heim-type ends from a low of $10 each, a length of all-thread (if it turns out that I don't already have the proper size) and a handful of nuts. I'll fine-tune the length from the threaded-rod end.

Thanks for your input!

KS

 

[Kumba]

Why not just pop the link off, measure it, and put it back on. Can't see that taking more then an hour or so. Just don't disturb the lock nut on the link and you should be fine.

I'd probably just measure the length and add/subtract 1/2" and consider that my adjustment range. you are probably going to get more then that from the threaded ends anyways.

Judging from your parts list it seems like you are going to have around $50 not counting time into each link. I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with.

 

[FDR]

I have my originals laying around. I can measure them later today

 

[FDR]

The length from the center of the outer bolt hole to the face of the inner mounting surface (face that mates to the body with the stud going through it) is 20.5" on one of mine set to however it was on the car. I straightened the stud on the end. Outer bolt hole is 10mm. Inner stud is 12mm.

 

[cammerfe]

I am MASSIVELY appreciative of your help. I'll be doing this job over the next couple of weeks---depending on parts shipping time---and will report here on the results.

KS

Later---

It seems that the tubes are $14.99 each and chromemoly /kevlar/teflon rod ends are about $11.50. Suggests that I'll have $ 50-$60 in the pair. I'll detail this work in the 'Land Speed LS' thread in the HP section. Thanks much for all your input!

KS

 

[FDR]

You're welcome. Let me know if you need anything else with these. For the time being, they're sitting next to the driveway, in the rain, punished. They know what they did. So are the UCAs. And my front discs, but they at least got a coating of undercoat. Now they're tent weights.

 

[tijoe]

is this what you were thinging of doing? This is a set of toe rods I put togeather for my Jaguar STR. They ended up costing significantly more than stock toe rods. So unless you are trying to stiffen and or strenghten your rear suspension, probably best to stay with stock toe rods.

 

[FDR]

is this what you were thinging of doing? This is a set of toe rods I put togeather for my Jaguar STR. They ended up costing significantly more than stock toe rods. So unless you are trying to stiffen and or strenghten your rear suspension, probably best to stay with stock toe rods.

That's interesting. About how much did it come out to? If I remember correctly, Telco really wants to get rid of the passive steering entirely. The Deezas are $87/ea

 

[tijoe]

That's interesting. About how much did it come out to? If I remember correctly, Telco really wants to get rid of the passive steering entirely. The Deezas are $87/ea

Roughly $95 each. (I added in shipping costs for the parts) Could piece them together for less in larger quantities. I used Chinese made rod-ends for these prototypes at a cost of around $30 each. The same OEM rod ends cost $65-$75 each. I used $25.00 QA1 rod ends. With LH, nuts, Thus closer to $30 each. One could probably build them up on your own between $75 each and $150 each, depending on the parts you purchase. The tie rods are custom. You wont find any off-the-shelf tie-rods with threads compatible with this selection of rod ends. (It took over 3-months to get them made since I only purchased 4 of them. )

 

[cammerfe]

I've found that suspension parts vary wildly based on where you source them. On one hand, street rod focused outfits commonly ask around $600 or more for a pair of 'A' arms. But on the other hand, circle track parts suppliers ask about $30 apiece for very much the same thing. I have contact with such a source who wants $11.50 each for Kevlar/Teflon rod ends in an appropriate size for this project. I don't know why the pictured items are mostly rod with only a short section of tube, but the proper length of tube for the LS goes for $14.99 each. You pay shipping whatever you order so it is only of concern in the overall expense.

Gotta go---more later.

KS

 

[FDR]

That's interesting. About how much did it come out to? If I remember correctly, Telco really wants to get rid of the passive steering entirely. The Deezas are $87/ea

Sorry, mixed up Telco And Cammer, though, I'm pretty sure both of you dislike the "feature"

 

[tijoe]

It will be interesting to see the procees you use to determine the parts you want to use. I purchased more than 5 different pairs of rod ends with varying length arms before settling on the pair I used. I looked at catalogs and rod ends in auto part stores, and the majority of the "short ones" had problems with them where they wouldn't work. Eventually you will run into the same problems I did, and I bet you will end up following a similar path to your solution. You questioned why I used a long tie rod, they are the factory length for the one I decided was best for my application. I only needed shorter tie rod tubes to get the correct overall length.

 

[Telco]

Sorry, mixed up Telco And Cammer, though, I'm pretty sure both of you dislike the "feature"

Yes, I did, and am currently running Deeza links in the back. It drives a lot better now.

 

[joegr]

Yes, I did, and am currently running Deeza links in the back. It drives a lot better now.

Of course, it's not a completely fair comparison.

Worn out factory parts - compared to new aftermarket parts.

 

[cammerfe]

Rear steer delete

Please understand that my assumptions may be 'all wet' and I may be wading into a swamp. On the other hand, I've put suspensions together with parts from a variety of sources while doing previous projects and am not actually starting from zero.

I am assuming that the rod, when in place and at rest, is in an extended position and collapses somewhat as it participates in passive rear steer. The length of the tube should therefore be ascertained quite easily and should only require 1-2 inches of adjustment. Since the tubes come with right and left threaded ends, a length of RH all-thread will easily make up the stud end. I'll use a LH Heim. Rod ends have at least two diameters of threaded length and one diameter provides adequate 'lap' for maximum strength.

If anyone knows that any of the above is in error, please tell me. I'm only waiting to be sure my assumptions are correct before I order the parts.

I'll use 1/2 inch diameter parts instead of trying to use metrics. I'll ream the holes in the hubs and the body brackets to do so.

KS

 

[RigsLS]

Why not just get the Deeza JAL607? it's a toe-link that's already made and it has no collapsible bushing in it. They're $84 on rock auto right now.

https://mibearings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=84502#axzz2xDfgYFgw




$64 back when I picked up a set. you guys get free shipping.



NOTE: No Lincoln LS ever left the WIXOM PLANT with a "REAR STEER" feature, it's know as "PASSIVE STEER".

 

[cammerfe]

Actually, I suppose 'passive rear steer' is most correct. It's a feature that provides a degree of steering assist and it's assuredly part of the rear suspension.

KS

 

[RigsLS]

No need to explain to me what it does or where it located, I'm well aware.

and I opted to try it without.

 

[cammerfe]

Thanks for the photo. Much appreciated!

KS

 

[tijoe]

Based on the image, what is your plan for the inner joint? I couldn't find one that isn't metric.
Let me know if you can find one that has 1/2" threads on the rod... it is a Metric world for car parts these days.

 

[RigsLS]

^ You on drugs or something?

It's the DEEZA links, they are in already, they are a direct fit. Now we need to bitch about this?

 

[FDR]

^ You on drugs or something?

It's the DEEZA links, they are in already, they are a direct fit. Now we need to bitch about this?

tijoe asked "What is your plan...Let me know if you find 1/2" ". That definitely was directed towards Cammer since your picture has the part installed and you would have already found the bolt.

No need to explain to me what it does or where it located, I'm well aware.

and I opted to try it without.

It's just conversation and explanation for others since this is the most recent thread discussing the links and rear steer.

Also, you guys get pedantic about it being "passive steer" and not just letting "rear steer" slide. We all know it's passive