rear wheel bearing?...WTF?

Looks like I'm about to join this group. If there's a write-up on the process, I'd appreciate someone pointing me in the right direction. If not, I guess I'll wade thorugh the shop manuals. (Of course, I'll probably do that anyway, but it always helps to see another person's point of view on the process.)

Thanks,

Andy
 
I just did one of mine. 3 hour job for a noob like me. I rented from autozone: universal hub puller, 36mm socket. Followed the repair guide on autozone.com for removing the wheel bearing, specific to your car of course. I took my knuckle in to NAPA and had them press out and press in the bearing for $26. I should've done a write up with pictures but didn't think of it.
 
Glad to hear it was an easy job. I'll dig into the shop manuals (couldn't find the info ion the Autozone site?) and make sure I'm prepped.

Andy
 
You have to make a log-on on their site to access the repair guides. Once logged in, you go to the repair help tab, and find vehicle repair guides. It's all specific to the car and accurate. Been using those guides on there for years!
 
I registered and hunted around a bit, but wasn't able to find the right section. No worries, though, as I have the service manual section printed out.

Thanks for the tip, though. I'll probably go back yo AZ and hunt some more.

Andy
 
Well, I got it done, and I have two words for the process:

Ridiculously easy.

The most difficult part was actually getting the rotor off. After being in place for 9 years and 55K miles, it had decided to "weld" itself to the hub a bit. (I know it had not been off, as it still had the original push-fit keepers in place.) Even at this mileage, the brake pads still have about 50% life, as well, which surprised the heck out of me! *

No surprises in the rest of the job. Thanks for the hints and tips.

Andy

EDIT: *After thinking about this, most likely, the dealer from whom I bought the car had changed the pads, but did not machine the rotors. No magic pads, I guess.
 
mharrison said:
The knuckle only takes like MAYBE 6 bolts. However, you do need the big a$$ socket for the axle nut. I think it was a 36mm.

FYI....you will also need to buy a new axle nut from FLM. It is a one-time use nut that WILL self destruct when removed. My dealers DID NOT stock it so I was down for a few days.
Click to expand...

Not sure you're still active here but were your threads on the axle completely rusted away? I'm about to do this but am afraid I have to buy new axles because the threads are completely rusted away. Since new axles are $240 and $270 each, I'm entertaining the autozone re-manufactured route for $65 each.
 
even if your threads look rusted away, you can still get the axle nut off. The part of the axle bolt closest to you that looks rusted away doesn't get threaded when you take off the nut.

I just heated the :q:q:q:q out of the bolt and broke it loose with a breaker bar.


I went to my local FLM and the rep said that 1. you can re-use all the bolts and 2. any common auto parts store will stock the axle nut as it's very common.

something tells me they are dix.
 
112!!!! where the hell you been... U still driving that thing!?!?!
 
G-Rell I drive it every summer, take the winters off lol
 
112 LS said:
even if your threads look rusted away, you can still get the axle nut off. The part of the axle bolt closest to you that looks rusted away doesn't get threaded when you take off the nut.

I just heated the :q:q:q:q out of the bolt and broke it loose with a breaker bar.


I went to my local FLM and the rep said that 1. you can re-use all the bolts and 2. any common auto parts store will stock the axle nut as it's very common.

something tells me they are dix.
Click to expand...

I bent over and did the ankle grab, though still got out cheaper than new knuckles. Ordered new axle assy's for both sides plus the nuts. I'll have them there as backup in case the old stuff is not good enough to reuse. I find it hard to believe that it would be reusable though. The thought of an autozone reman handling 400 ft-lbs of torque made me cringe a little. Who knows what was wrong with them and if they're truely in good shape. While the parts are in shipping, I've been spraying the axle and nut with WD-40 for the past couple days hoping it will make removal a little easier. Also got some Euro shocks for rear while I'm back there.
 
WD-40 does nothing for rust, it was formulated as a water displacement fluid for electronics, formula # 40.

PB Blaster does a much better job. The best thing to do is to use a Dremel wire brush or a hand held wire brush and go after the exposed threads first, removing all the oxides. Then let PB Blaster do it's thing for a day.
 
02 Linc I promise you, no matter what the end of your axle bolt looks like, if you get a pep-boys blow torch and a breaker bar your axle nuts will come off like butter in under 5 mins.

soak em up the night before with PB blaster, then heat the nut up for 5 mins (off and on getting it a lil red) and she'll break loose


my problem was separating the knuckle from the axle, I wound up pulling the entire axle out and taking it to a shop. they hit it with an air hammer for a few minutes and it popped. I would have been beating on it with a hand hammer for hours until the aluminum deformed.
 
here's what mine looks like

2q1rz7t.jpg
 
Holy f-bomb!

And yeah, I used a pair of autozone remans for $55 or so last year, no problems.

Use lots of anti-seize on the splines. I had to remove an axle for a knuckle change and in one year, the thing was hard to get back out again. I used a push tool from autozone, worked like a charm but it did build a lot of pressure on the pushing while it was working the one year installed axle back out.
 
112 LS said:
here's what mine looks like
Click to expand...

Holy crap. Did you reuse the axle? I'd be a little apprehensive after heating it that much. I plan to take my axles out anyway for the traction loc install. Should make removing the knuckle easier.
 
I took my 2001 LS V8, 85,000 miles into the dealership today for a tune-up and was
given the nasty news that I have bad rear wheel bearings. I was given a quote by
the dealership of $3,000.00....most of which is for parts, only something like $280.00 is for labour. After reading this thread I am thoroughly confused. Any suggestions/advice/help/razor blades would be appreciated.
 
Buy new bearings from Rock auto. Find and bring to independent shop. Probably need control arms, toe links etc. These can also be purchased online. If you can afford it buy all the parts and have it done the same time. Good Luck.
 
REDBED said:
Buy new bearings from Rock auto. Find and bring to independent shop. Do they really want 3 grand to just do the rear bearings? O.M.G.
Click to expand...

Must be replacing the half-shafts too. Still the parts don't add up to $3K
 
Yep, $3,000.00. I am admittedly clueless....I guess I'll try to find an independent shop.

Thanks for your responses.
 
Try Tascaparts.com for OEM (cheapest place ) Amazon(some OEM and MOOG) and Rock Auto.com.
 
The problem is that I am completely ignorant as to what parts are needed. I think I have
to find a reputable shop first and go from there.
 
What part/parts did they specify in the estimate. Can't just be new bearings and axle nuts.
 
The whole knuckle assy. (the way Ford wants it done) let alone is around $1000.
 
M4rk said:
The whole knuckle assy. (the way Ford wants it done) let alone is around $1000.
Click to expand...

Kind of like when you want to buy some guide rails for the moon roof, they insist on selling it with the actual glass, which separates with four torque screws.

They won't sell any parts individually on the moon roof assy because the rails and guides are riveted together to the frame assy.

Motor you can get separately but not the glass, it must be purchased as part of the assy unit.

~ stupid.
 
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