Rear Window Defroster Dead?

[nghtshd88]

So my rear window no longer defrosts. I noticed the roof was pulled down a little by the 3rd brake light by the last owner. I checked the fuse and its fine. Is there a relay or something? The button is working fine. Or when this happens I need a new windshield??

 

[joegr]

About midway up each C pillar is a connection to the defroster grid in the glass. Check and see if one of those has detached from the glass.

The last owner didn't pull your headliner down at the 3rd brake light. It came down by itself. Search this forum for solutions.

The defroster relay is relay 3 in the trunk junction box.

 

[nghtshd88]

I didnt see anything by either side. Is it under the pillar? Also I believe that relay has other things on it?

 

[joegr]

I didnt see anything by either side. Is it under the pillar? Also I believe that relay has other things on it?

Yes, they're under/behind the pillar cover.
Relay 03 also powers the side view mirror heaters, but nothing else.
The relay is controlled by the REM.

 

[nghtshd88]

Find it hard to believe they fell off behind the pillars. Maybe a dumb question but whats the REM?

 

[scjmc]

REM = Rear Equipment Module

 

[LS4me]

REM = Rear Equipment Module

Rear ELECTRONIC Module.......

 

[nghtshd88]

If this relay is bad would you here a rattle in it? My lighting relays that went bad always had a rattle in them when they broke.

I looked at the defroster fuse and L & R REM fuses in the trunk and they are all good.

 

[1LoudLS]

have you checked to see oif there is any voltage at the two plugs for the window(this will tell you if the problem is the glass itself, or something in the car)

 

[joegr]

have you checked to see oif there is any voltage at the two plugs for the window(this will tell you if the problem is the glass itself, or something in the car)

This and a resistance check of the rear window grid it the only sure way to tell. I guess you checked and the buttons are still attached to the sides of the window?

 

[nghtshd88]

Checked the buttons on the window. Don't see how "something" in the car killed it. The fuses for each side are good though, havent tested the voltage at the plugs yet. Was just curious about the relay though.

 

[1LoudLS]

If this relay is bad would you here a rattle in it?

well, i guess its possible if something inside the relay broke, like the spring, or contacts, but most if not all relays i have seen go bad (which is not a lot at all) have not made any noises.

is the relay triggering when the defroster is turned on and off?

Don't see how "something" in the car killed it.

not saying that anything killed it, but there is clearly a failure of something, if I had to track down this problem, i would start at the glass, and work my way back to find the issue, testing the glass > voltage at the glass's plugs > voltage at the relay socket > trigger at the relay > trigger at the REM...

also just because the fuses are good, doesn't mean that there is not a open circuit somewhere, just no shorts.

 

[dannyquest]

Any luck on this?

 

[1LoudLS]

are you having the same problem?

 

[dannyquest]

Yeah, same issue.
My car has the 100,000 death clock. soon as I hit 100,000 miles, everything broke. lol

 

[1LoudLS]

so which steps from above have you checked or tested?





HINT: if the answer is anything less than all of them, then your kinda wasting your and our time as we would just be starting over saying the exact same stuff...

 

[lsemex04]

is your rear window tinted?

 

[dannyquest]

No, no tints, also check connections on rear window and swapped relay in trunk. no luck

 

[kenbelanger]

Rear window defrost issue solved

Rear window defrost issue solved.
My rear window was not defrosting. The fuses and relay were fine, The rear view mirror heaters worked. The connection to the window were OK.
The light on the button showed it was on but still no rear defrost. So I ripped the rear package tray off and and here was the problem.
The electrical connector was melted.


Anyone know why this would happen?

 

[joegr]

...Anyone know why this would happen?

It was making a poor connection there (loose and/or dirty contacts maybe). This generated a few watts of heat where none was expected, and the plastic melted.

The box will probably have to be replaced (along with the connector on the cable), unless you can unsolder the connector and solder the wires directly to the device.

 

[kenbelanger]

I tested the box and luckily it still works.
I cut and added a new wire and terminal.