Rebuilt trans still shifts weird

SMOOGER

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I have a 2003 v8 started shifting harsh into 3rd gear an almost seemed like it was slipping into 4th no codes t all had the trans rebuilt and then had the computer updated with all the newest updates an it still is shifting hard in to 3rd we can't figure out the problem... Any suggestions
 
I'd go back to wherever you got the rebuild done, it's their problem.
 
My buddy who works at shop redid it

No offense, but he didn't do something right. Did he replace the solenoid assembly? Did he replace or rework the valve body? Servos? The list goes on. I would say that he is not experienced with this transmission, because if he were he wouldn't have you asking what it could be.
 
No he does trannies all the time an yes we replaced all the mechanical items. Thought the valve body was clogged after everything was rebuilt and put in a replacement and still no luck
 
Dealer did updates and brand new solenoid rebuild valve body new servoes and all the insides
 
tranny could be perfectly fine; disconnect your battery and follow the proper break in procedure (see owners manual for battery replacement) and do a complete drive cycle (search, it was posted in september 2012 ish) and your problems may disappear.

i have rid myself of these exact issues by simply disconnecting the battery to clear the shift specs and like magic the problem went away. if it goes into (or out of) 3rd with a huge clunk pull over immediately, disconnect the battery, and re-do the break in procedure. if after 4 or 5 disconnects you are still clunking into or out of third you have a mechanical fail and as someone noted above it could be anything and is not easily trouble shot on a forum
 
I have a 2003 v8 started shifting harsh into 3rd gear an almost seemed like it was slipping into 4th no codes t all had the trans rebuilt and then had the computer updated with all the newest updates an it still is shifting hard in to 3rd we can't figure out the problem... Any suggestions
My '03 had almost the exact same symptoms. The trans was rebuilt and the shifting didn't change. It turns out the funky 2-3 and 3-4 shifts were caused by a bad PCM which cost $400 for replacement and flash. I've posted on it before. Search my screen name for more detail.
 
Would the PCM go bad and still not throw a code?
Yes. Mine had no codes. First trans shop I took it to said it was the PCM. He had some type of tester, and he felt it showed everthing working ok. He said take it to the dealer. Dealer said the PCM was ok and wanted to to pull the pan charging me $200. I didn't want to tie up $4000 in a dealer trans, so I took the car to a second trans shop who did rebuild the trans. After they finished, they said I also needed a PCM. My trans always kinda shifted crappy and had a torque converter surge when rolling on the gas in high gears. It does shift better and no more surge, so I don't feel too bad about the overhaul, but the real shifting issue was the PCM.
 
Yes. Mine had no codes. First trans shop I took it to said it was the PCM. He had some type of tester, and he felt it showed everthing working ok. He said take it to the dealer. Dealer said the PCM was ok and wanted to to pull the pan charging me $200. I didn't want to tie up $4000 in a dealer trans, so I took the car to a second trans shop who did rebuild the trans. After they finished, they said I also needed a PCM. My trans always kinda shifted crappy and had a torque converter surge when rolling on the gas in high gears. It does shift better and no more surge, so I don't feel too bad about the overhaul, but the real shifting issue was the PCM.

I think I'm experiencing a torque converter surge as well. What did it feel like to you?
 
I think I'm experiencing a torque converter surge as well. What did it feel like to you?
Mostly at expressway speeds 45-70 mph in 5th gear, I'd push on the gas to accelerate lightly but not hard enough to cause a downshift. There was a rhythmic surging perhaps 1-2 times per second. The tach would show a 200ish rpm variance with the surge. If I pushed harder on the gas or went back to cruise, the surging would go away. It didn't always happen, but it was fairly often.
 
Mostly at expressway speeds 45-70 mph in 5th gear, I'd push on the gas to accelerate lightly but not hard enough to cause a downshift. There was a rhythmic surging perhaps 1-2 times per second. The tach would show a 200ish rpm variance with the surge. If I pushed harder on the gas or went back to cruise, the surging would go away. It didn't always happen, but it was fairly often.

Sorry didn't mean to hijack. That's exactly what I'm experiencing. Did you get the TC rebuilt as well or was it the PCM that fixed it.
 
Sorry didn't mean to hijack. That's exactly what I'm experiencing. Did you get the TC rebuilt as well or was it the PCM that fixed it.
It was all done at the same time, but I'm pretty sure the TC was that issue. It seems to be a somewhat common issue on S-Type Jaguars which have lots of common parts to the LS.
 
It was all done at the same time, but I'm pretty sure the TC was that issue. It seems to be a somewhat common issue on S-Type Jaguars which have lots of common parts to the LS.

So the TC was overhauled? Thanks for bringing that up btw, I'm finally in the right direction.
 
if you rebuilt the tranny and didnt properly calibrate your TCC (torque converter clutch) you would have shift and TCC engagement issues above ~45MPH. see my post above about disconnecting your battery and completing a drive cycle to save yourself $$ on further replacements which may not even be necessary. 90% of the LS's I have driven were not properly calibrated and every time work has been done to my LS affecting shift timing/parameters it lost its calibration and shifted like crap. most trans problems on these cars are caused by improper calibration IMO.

properly calibrating your TCC involves starting and stopping in D4 and D5 and throwing it from D4 to D5 at certain speeds multiple times in a single drive cycle (search for the drive cycle post from the shop manual (someone posted it back in september 2012)). I would not consider that 'normal' driving, so every time you mess with anything that factors into a shift timing you should recalibrate your shift specs/KAM to not only ensure the car is operating within spec but also to extend the life of the car in the long run because obviously running a trans slightly out of spec (check light on or not) will cause premature wear
 

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