Remote start question

[LSter]

I just had a CompuStar CS700 remote start system put on my 04 LS V8. First off, is the instrument panel supposed to work when I've remotely started the vehicle? The only thing that powers when I remote start is the HVAC system and the lights. The instrument panel and radio are still off.

Second, I got a CEL today saying that the fuel level sending unit was faulty. Would the new remote start cause that part to fail?

Opinions???

 

[joegr]

...Second, I got a CEL today saying that the fuel level sending unit was faulty. Would the new remote start cause that part to fail?

Opinions???

I don't think that is has caused failure of any parts. I think that it is not correctly wired in and this is causing the error code. I don't think that the remote start is powering up everything that it needs to, or in the right sequence. I suspect that 1LoudLS will be able to help you with more specific advice.

 

[1LoudLS]

thanks Joe, yes they did not power everything up correctly..

first off the compustar brains do not have as many on board relays as most other brands do, but even then the LS needs a couple of extra relays because there are extra ignition circuits that needs to be powered up.


everything on the dash should light up exactly as if the key was used to start the car, if the gauges are not lighting up, that is one circuit that is not being powered

then if you don't power up a certain extra ignition circuit, you will get that exact same fuel code (however it does not come every time, you usually have to remote start the car a couple of times before it shows up)

long story short, your shop didn't do their job right, and if they tested it and gave it back to you like that, either they shouldn't be working on cars this new, or they are just trying to get by as cheaply and quickly as possible(which with certain cars can destroy computers, engines and transmissions).

hell since they didn't bother using enough relays for the ignition switch, I'm really surprised that they even bother to go into the door to disarm the factory security system (although they had to, to get the locks to work (same wires)) and if they would have pre wired it correctly, they could have also set it up to roll up or roll down all of your windows from the remote without any extra parts (which isn't really too hard to do later on right at the brain)...


the radio staying off isn't really that big of a deal as it is just a second acc circuit and with most fords can be left out (as long as the HVAC systems is on a separate circuit) but the cluster not getting power is very interesting since the PATS is handled by the cluster, i would think that it would have to have power for the engine to start...


long story short, call the shop, complain and have them fix it, makes sure they use enough relays so that every circuit is powered up... by looking at the ignition harness, you can see that there is a hell of a lot more wires that just the 4 or 5 that the CS systems handles.

 

[LSter]

So is everything that needs to be powered on the ignition switch or do they have to run relays to and from the distribution box? Just so I know whether they've done it right this time around.

 

[1LoudLS]

So is everything that needs to be powered on the ignition switch or do they have to run relays to and from the distribution box? Just so I know whether they've done it right this time around.

remote starts systems are basically just a computer using relays to hotwire the car (and a bypass to make the car think that there is a coded key in the car)

...they didn't bother using enough relays for the ignition switch...

...by looking at the ignition harness, you can see that there is a hell of a lot more wires that just the 4 or 5 that the CS systems handles.

no distribution box, just needs more relays at the ignition switch

 

[112 LS]

the above suggestions sound spot on to me.

when I had frays in my engine harness I used to get that fuel sender error too.

 

[1LoudLS]

at a minimum, my shop software (Directechs/Viper) says


12 constant input - RED
2nd 12v constant input - RED

Ignition - GREEN/BLACK

Accessory - PINK/WHITE
2nd ACC - PINK/YELLOW
3rd ACC - YELLOW

there is also a key sense wire that should be hooked up to keep the automatic seat movement synced up
the bypasses RX and TX wires are also up with/near the ign harness at the PATS harness


I don't remember exactly what it is, but there is one discrepancy (and it may not be with this but the 1st gen diagram...) but on one of my LSs there was a small difference with one of them that caused the fuel code, and it was either one of the ACC wires was actually an IGN wire (meaning that the 12v did not drop out during crank) or that there was one wire that was unlisted. its easy to test each wire to verify with a meter before beginning to be sure of which.

100% sure that at least one of those ACC wires did not get powered up (the one that the radio is on) and 100% sure that one of them DID get hooked up (the one that the climate control is on). the third one is iffy, I've never needed to figure out which is which.





I also originally didn't hook up the ACC wire for the radio so that when i remoted started my car from a mile away, if i forgot to turn down my stereo, I wasn't setting off a sonic bomb in some neighborhood.but i need to switch that after I got my AVIC F series that needed over a minute to boot.so i switched it to power that circuit on start but just kill the radio only when the alarm is set.

 

[joegr]

... my AVIC F series that needed over a minute to boot...

My JVC is not nearly as bad, but still it takes more time to boot than the factory NAV did. To resolve that issue, I have it wired to turn on and start booting when I open the driver's door. That way, by the time that I am ready, it is ready.

 

[Blueberryyum02]

I

My JVC is not nearly as bad, but still it takes more time to boot than the factory NAV did. To resolve that issue, I have it wired to turn on and start booting when I open the driver's door. That way, by the time that I am ready, it is ready.

I need to bring my car to you. And have you install my remote start. Cause I would love to have my radio boot up on entry.

Also is there a factory OEM remote start for our cars.

 

[joegr]

I
I need to bring my car to you. And have you install my remote start. Cause I would love to have my radio boot up on entry.

Also is there a factory OEM remote start for our cars.

I don't have remote start, but I did add a custom electronics module of my own to both of my LSes.
There was never a remote start for the LS from the factory. I do think there was a Ford re-branded dealer installed remote start.

 

[1LoudLS]

I do think there was a Ford re-branded dealer installed remote start.

most dealers do have a ford branded remote start system (some models are rebranded CODE systems) that they will usually install into any of their cars, while the LS is a little tricky, its not too much worse than most fords (from the fusion on are about the same difficulty)

 

[1LoudLS]

My JVC is not nearly as bad, but still it takes more time to boot than the factory NAV did. To resolve that issue, I have it wired to turn on and start booting when I open the driver's door. That way, by the time that I am ready, it is ready.

no, nothing can be as bad at the original F series! lol

all the new radios usually are all around 15-25 seconds, even quicker if they don't have nav built in...



my pioneer AVH is really quick, i usually just get in and start the car right away, then buckle up. buy the time i'm ready to start moving, its pretty much ready to go, also the back up camera will function about a quarter of the way through the boot process! so it really doesnt bother me

 

[FDR]

I have a question. I have a DEI remote start. HVAC and the radio turn on, but advancetrac does not operate after remote start until I restart it normally. How can I try to track down the issue? Everything else seems to work fine driving. I didn't mind the heat over the summer with remote windows, but it's going to get cold. I haven't found much info regarding DEI. Any chance of remote window close?

 

[1LoudLS]

dei is viper or clifford or hornet or sidewinder or python.



if you're having troubles with your advancedtrac but only after remote starting, then your problem is the same as above (except for its a different wire that is not being powered up...)

Any chance of remote window close?

as in you would like the windows to close from the remote? this is very easy, but it depends on if your system has the right kind of aux output (model dependent)

the lock wire (the wire the system needs to tap into to lock the doors) (black/blue - at the DDM, 20pin plug, pin16) is also the factory alarm arm wire, it is also the roll the windows up wire.

so when wiring up the system, you connect the dei's lock wire, factory alarm arm wire and an aux channel all to the same wire using diodes to isolate them from each other, then this "three into one wire" connects to the lock wire @ the DDM.

then to roll up the windows, you either need to program that aux channel (a) best option, to a timed output, at least 18 seconds no more than 30. OR (b) to stay on as long as you press it, then you have to stay in range and hold the button long enough for all the windows and sunroof to close (18 seconds).

 

[FDR]

Sounds like a bit of a pain... Both of my cars have electrical issues I need to track down and it sucks. Just as I finished the suspension, too

 

[1LoudLS]

Sounds like a bit of a pain...

the whole car is a pain in the ass to do, but thats actually the easy part...

even if the system you are using doesn't have locks and its only a remote start system, you still have to run one wire into the door to disarm the factory alarm (the same disarm wire will also unlock doors, and rolls down the windows)

then if the system does have locks also then its not really any extra work to pull a second wire into the door to the lock wire (this wire also arms the factory alarm and will roll the windows up)

the only difference here is each new wire coming out of the door will just connect to a couple of extra wires. its really only about 5 minutes of actual work with maybe an extra two minutes of work during programing, not really that much more when you're talking about a 4 hour or more job.

 

[FDR]

So then why doesn't holding the lock button on the remote close the windows from the factory? I do know there's one wire tapped into the ddm harness. So I guess you're right, its not difficult. I do t have any info in the unit though so I wouldn't know where to start

 

[joegr]

So then why doesn't holding the lock button on the remote close the windows from the factory? I do know there's one wire tapped into the ddm harness. So I guess you're right, its not difficult. I do t have any info in the unit though so I wouldn't know where to start

Because that is a different input to the DDM. Put your key into the lock on the driver's door. Turn it to lock and hold it there. After a delay, the windows will all roll up. They will stop if you release the key.
The remote start gets wired to the lock/unlock switches that are triggered by the key in the door.

 

[1LoudLS]

^ yep, the factory remote buttons being pressed are a different signal...


now they could have made the factory remote roll up the windows like you can with unlock/down, but they chose to leave that out on purpose(probably some safety BS...)

 

[Blueberryyum02]

^ yep, the factory remote buttons being pressed are a different signal...


now they could have made the factory remote roll up the windows like you can with unlock/down, but they chose to leave that out on purpose(probably some safety BS...)

Ok my question is can you wire that function into the factory remote system to have all windows roll up when the lock button is pressed if so how would we go about doing it.

 

[1LoudLS]

nope, the factory is what it is...

 

[FDR]

Oh, I think I understand the issue. The remote start would have to tap into the keyhole>DDM lock wire, whereas the remote just communicates to the DDM and the DDM then sends the lock signal to the locks? So it's nut just "hold lock, any lock" but rather "signal lock from the key sensor wire" if that makes sense to you guys. Thanks

 

[1LoudLS]

thats it...

the windows will ONLY roll up from the key in door, not from the fob, and not from the lock switch on the door.


also, not from the keyless entry pad(7/8+9/0).


they are all different code in the computer (although some parts may be the same)

 

[joegr]

...now they could have made the factory remote roll up the windows like you can with unlock/down, but they chose to leave that out on purpose(probably some safety BS...)

Using some software (probably ripped off from BMW), I was able to alter some of the features of my 325i. One of these was a check box that enabled the windows to close by holding the lock button on the factory remote. Next to this option, it said something along the lines of "Do not select in America."

 

[LS4me]

So then why doesn't holding the lock button on the remote close the windows from the factory?

Because we live in an EXTREMELY litigious society. It's to keep Ford's lawyers (and their insurance rates) happy, happy, happy!!!!!