Replaced EGR Valve on running 2003 Lincoln LS V8 and now it cranks but won't start.

[jfw1007]

My 2003 Lincoln LS V8 failed emissions due to "P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input" error code.

Research online pointed me to the EGR Valve and a few people online said replacing it fixed that problem.

This video showed how to easily remove it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBwfkAlFI80. I bought a new one from Advance: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-by-bwd-egr-valve-egr1805/20470713-P#fragment-3.

I put in the new EGR valve and the car cranked but wouldn't start. I put the old EGR valve BACK in and now the car only cranks but won't start. Minutes earlier the car was running fine. All I did was swap out the EGR valve with a new one, then put the old one back. I'm sure I installed it correctly.

What could have possibly happened? The new EGR Valve from Advance was the only one in stock in the area and looked used but I put it in anyway. Could it have blown something? I checked the fuses and they're all fine. I cranked it a long time. Also I tested pulling a hose and fuel is shooting out of the fuel pressure regulator.


I'm baffled.

 

[joegr]

... Also I tested pulling a hose and fuel is shooting out of the fuel pressure regulator.


I'm baffled.

I'm baffled as well, since there is no fuel pressure regulator. What did you pull which hose off of?

The fuel pressure sensor is fairly close to the EGR valve and easy to damage while loosening the exhaust tube from the EGR valve assembly. Did you check and see if it was okay? The hard plastic vacuum lines to the EGR valve and fuel pressure sensor are very easy to crack and you might not notice it if it happens under the flex loom that they are in.


(The LS is a return-less fuel system. Fuel pressure is controlled by the PCM reading the fuel pressure and then sending commands back to the REM to speed up or slow down the fuel pump as needed.)

 

[jfw1007]

Oops, I meant sensor. I did notice that it would be easy to break but I was careful and it looks fine. Thanks for the reply.

 

[joegr]

So do you mean that gas was going though the sensor and coming out the vacuum hose attached to it? If so, there's your problem.

 

[jfw1007]

I pushed the car to neighboring shop. I was expecting the mechanic to quickly identify something I missed or did wrong when replacing the EGR valve. Instead, after three days he said the timing chain was broken. He said there was no compression on any of the cylinders and he put a wrench on the crankshaft and could only turn it a quarter turn. He let me take my car without charging the diagnostic fee. The dust was undisturbed on the spark plug cover and the car never moved from it's spot in his parking lot, so it was never on a lift. I don't trust his diagnosis.

My next option is the dealership, which is a long tow. Before I do that I'm wondering:

How can I test the timing chain(s)? Is it even worth considering? Is this a red herring? It seems unlikely to me the timing chain broke when trying to start the car after I'd just put in the new EGR valve.

Assuming the timing chain isn't the issue, you said gas going through the sensor and coming out the vacuum hose is my problem. Are you saying my sensor is damaged?

Thanks.

 

[G-RELL]

pulling a valve cover and plugs will let you rotate and see the chain move....IIRC

 

[joegr]

... you said gas going through the sensor and coming out the vacuum hose is my problem. Are you saying my sensor is damaged?

Thanks.

Yes.
You have an 03, so it is very unlikely that you have a broken or jumped timing chain or bad tensioners. If you have gasoline going through the fuel pressure sensor and into the vacuum hose, you have flooded the engine and you may very well have hydro-locked it with liquid gasoline in the cylinders. (This would stop the "mechanic" from being able to turn the crank by hand.) It's possible this has done damage either by bending a rod or washing down a ring or two. On the other hand, everything may be fine once you get the gasoline out of the cylinders. Don't try to crank it anymore yet.

You need to remove all eight spark plugs. Then turn the crank by hand to force out the liquid gasoline. After that, I would put a few drops (just drops) of oil in each spark plug hole (the spark plug hole, not the well) and turn the crank by hand a couple more times. Next, I would change the oil as it may have a fair amount of gasoline in it. Replace the fuel pressure sensor and reinstall the plugs and coils. Now, see if it will start.

 

[joegr]

... He said there was no compression on any of the cylinders and he put a wrench on the crankshaft and could only turn it a quarter turn. ... The dust was undisturbed on the spark plug cover and the car never moved from it's spot in his parking lot, so it was never on a lift. I don't trust his diagnosis...

There's no way to test compression if the crank won't turn. There's no way to test compression without removing the spark plugs.
(However, there is no need to put it on a lift to check it.)

 

[BlazeWW420]

Have you reset the computer by disconnecting the battery? New parts may be in better condition but if your car is still going off of the saved data from when parts were bad it might cause a no start condition.... If you didn't, then check for gasoline in the cylinders, clear it out and do as the other commenter suggests. Then reset the computer. Only try to crank it over if your sure the fuel in the cylinders didn't damage anything