Looks pretty simple,but I learned a few things along the way. BTW,pre-soak the nuts with penetrant a day ahead if possible.
(1) Set emergency brake. Chock the opposite front wheel.Chocks in front and rear of that tire.
(2) I used a small trolley jack inserted from front of tire under the outermost point I could get to that still let jack clear the tire and I jacked up the wheel I chose to work on.
(3)Remove lug nuts and tire and slide an immovable object under axle,like what I used was a wheel ramp.This so car cannot fall on you if jack fails.
(4) Your alignment is still correct,because you kept the weight of the car body collapsing the suspension when you jacked it up under the lower A frame(control arm),SO measure from the center of the head of the outer mounting bolt to a point on the body or axle as a reference measurement later when new part is installed.
(5)WRITE DOWN that measurement to the 32nd of an inch.
(6)Remove the outer bolt and pry out the end so it hangs loose.
(7) Now the inner end has a 8mm or 5/16ths hex so you can hold it while loosening the 18mm nut and remove the rod.
(8) Now that you have the whole toe link out, straighten the ball joint stud at the end and lay it flat. Now lay the new assembled link next to it and adjust the new length to as exact match of the old link's length.Snug the locknut to keep it at this adjustment.
(9) Inject some oil under the ball joint boot so that when you finally tune your adjustment in, the boot won't bind up and get damaged.Found this out the hard way.
(10) Install the link,inner mount first,torque to 65 lbs.,then install the outer end,AND it slants one way(the bushing)and that's the way to make sure it's positioned.You'll see what I mean.
(11)Tighten outer link to 45-50 lbs.
(12) NOW you refer to your written down measurement from the center of the bolthead to your reference point. Loosen the locknut and adjust as CLOSE as you can.
(13) I used never-seize silver on the adjustment threads and the nuts for the alignment people's convenience.Turned out I had measured so closely,they said they didn't have to touch the rear toe.(Don pats hisself on the back!) LOL!
(14) Don't forget to remove the ramp or whatever you use from under there and the wheel chocks.
(15) Repeat for other side and ALWAYS be careful! don-ohio
^)
(1) Set emergency brake. Chock the opposite front wheel.Chocks in front and rear of that tire.
(2) I used a small trolley jack inserted from front of tire under the outermost point I could get to that still let jack clear the tire and I jacked up the wheel I chose to work on.
(3)Remove lug nuts and tire and slide an immovable object under axle,like what I used was a wheel ramp.This so car cannot fall on you if jack fails.
(4) Your alignment is still correct,because you kept the weight of the car body collapsing the suspension when you jacked it up under the lower A frame(control arm),SO measure from the center of the head of the outer mounting bolt to a point on the body or axle as a reference measurement later when new part is installed.
(5)WRITE DOWN that measurement to the 32nd of an inch.
(6)Remove the outer bolt and pry out the end so it hangs loose.
(7) Now the inner end has a 8mm or 5/16ths hex so you can hold it while loosening the 18mm nut and remove the rod.
(8) Now that you have the whole toe link out, straighten the ball joint stud at the end and lay it flat. Now lay the new assembled link next to it and adjust the new length to as exact match of the old link's length.Snug the locknut to keep it at this adjustment.
(9) Inject some oil under the ball joint boot so that when you finally tune your adjustment in, the boot won't bind up and get damaged.Found this out the hard way.
(10) Install the link,inner mount first,torque to 65 lbs.,then install the outer end,AND it slants one way(the bushing)and that's the way to make sure it's positioned.You'll see what I mean.
(11)Tighten outer link to 45-50 lbs.
(12) NOW you refer to your written down measurement from the center of the bolthead to your reference point. Loosen the locknut and adjust as CLOSE as you can.
(13) I used never-seize silver on the adjustment threads and the nuts for the alignment people's convenience.Turned out I had measured so closely,they said they didn't have to touch the rear toe.(Don pats hisself on the back!) LOL!
(14) Don't forget to remove the ramp or whatever you use from under there and the wheel chocks.
(15) Repeat for other side and ALWAYS be careful! don-ohio
^)
