JoshMcMadMac
Dedicated LVC Member
It seems like my fan is running at high speed way too much and way too quickly anymore. Is there a particular place to start looking among all of these parts that may be the issue?
Replacing cooling components (genII V8)
- Thread starter SoulSoak
- Start date
I'm unaware as to whether or not one of these particular/individual parts failing would be the cause of your fan malfunctioning. I believe that the fan speed may be affected by the temperature of the engine which can be affected by one of these parts failing.. But as to narrowing down exactly which piece would come down to visual inspection and disassembly.
However, if you plan to replace any cooling plastic, replace them all.
Anyhow, update. Finally finished the LS last night. Me and my son took her for a good cruise. I don't know if it's just my paranoia at the moment, but is my temp gauge normal? It seems like it might be a hair over perfectly horizontal, but it may be my imagination too.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Normal. That's where both of mine stay.
RigsLS
Dedicated LVC Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2012
- Messages
- 7,756
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Excellent work SoulSoak, looks real good!
had not seen a GEN II 8 opened like this before for coolant parts replacement. (have yet to see a GEN II V8 motor in person actually)
definitely a bit different then my GEN I process.
+1 enjoy!
had not seen a GEN II 8 opened like this before for coolant parts replacement. (have yet to see a GEN II V8 motor in person actually)
definitely a bit different then my GEN I process.
+1 enjoy!
Thanks !!
Super happy
My only internet source is my crap phone, but I will be doing a detailed thread write up on the whole process when I get a chance at my Mom's. Big thanks to everyone, saved me a ton of $$$ and also have the peace of mind of having it done right. Plus I got some quality time with my baby
God bless !!!
FrankAnthonyDavis
New LVC Member
First of all thanks to everyone for their help with this project. I ended up ordering (mostly) everything I needed from Tasca Parts. I wanted to contribute by making the ordering process just a little bit easier for others in the future.
I have complied a list of the parts I ordered. Complete with a part description, part number with direct links to each parts webpage, quantity and current pricing.
When submitting your order to Tasca I recommend filling in your VIN on the checkout page. I had initially ordered part 3W4Z-8260-BB but after placing the order Tasca sent an email stating that part 3W4Z-8260-BC was the correct part for my VIN.
I have added "Reservoir 5W4Z-8A511-AB" to the list for convenience. Even though I personally got lucky and found mine on Ebay for $30 cheaper w/ free shipping. I have also added a list for FordPartsGiant as this should make it easier for those who wish to bargain shop each individual part.
TASCA PARTS
TUBE ASY 2W9Z-9N499-AC - 1 - $26.52
LOWER HOSE 3W4Z-8286-CB - 1 - $68.94
THERMOSTAT HOUSING 3W4Z-8548-AD - 1 - $43.13
THERMOSTAT COVER 3W4Z-8592-AA - 1 - $38.31
RING - RUBBER -W707299-S300 - 2 - $14.04
THERMOSTAT HSNG SEAL XW4Z-8255-CA - 1 - $3.80
GASKET 96JV-8255-CB - 1 - $3.80
THERMOSTAT GASKET 2W9Z-8590-AB - 1 - $7.62
MANIFOLD GASKET 2W9Z-9439-AA - 2 - $27.94
THERMOSTAT 2W9Z-8575-AB - 1 - $19.38
HOSE ASY 3W4Z-9F814-AA - 1 - $23.52
UPPER HOSE 3W4Z-8260-BC - 1 - $51.03
WATER PUMP 2W9Z-8501-BB - 1 - $130.13
BOLT - HEX.HEAD -W500215-S309 - 4 - $7.96
SERPENTINE BELT 2W9Z-8620-GB - 1 - $29.42
THERMOSTAT HSNG CAP 3W4Z-8A511-AB - 1 - $33.27
RESERVOIR 5W4Z-8A080-AA - 1 - $171.49
FORD PARTS GIANT
TUBE ASY 2W9Z-9N499-AC - 1 - $27.21
HOSE ASY 3W4Z-8286-CB - 1 - $70.74
TUBE – WATER INLET 3W4Z-8548-AD - 1 - $44.25
CONNECTION – WATER O 3W4Z-8592-AA - 1 - $39.31
RING - RUBBER -W707299-S300 - 4 - $28.80
GASKET XW4Z-8255-CA - 1 - $3.89
GASKET 96JV-8255-CB - 1 - $3.89
SEAL 2W9Z-8590-AB - 1 - $7.82
GASKET – INTAKE MANI 2W9Z-9439-AA - 2 - $28.68
THERMOSTAT ASY 2W9Z-8575-AB - 1 - $19.88
HOSE ASY 3W4Z-9F814-AA - 1 - $24.13
HOSE ASY 3W4Z-8260-BC - 1 - $36.67
PUMP ASY - WATER 2W9Z-8501-BB - 1 - $127.87
BOLT - HEX.HEAD -W500215-S309 - 4 - $8.16
V-BELT 2W9Z-8620-GB - 1 - $28.91
CAP ASY - RADIATOR 3W4Z-8A511-AB - 1 - $34.14
TANK ASY – RADIATOR 5W4Z-8A080-AA - 1 - $175.96
Hopefully this is helpful to someone!
I have complied a list of the parts I ordered. Complete with a part description, part number with direct links to each parts webpage, quantity and current pricing.
When submitting your order to Tasca I recommend filling in your VIN on the checkout page. I had initially ordered part 3W4Z-8260-BB but after placing the order Tasca sent an email stating that part 3W4Z-8260-BC was the correct part for my VIN.
I have added "Reservoir 5W4Z-8A511-AB" to the list for convenience. Even though I personally got lucky and found mine on Ebay for $30 cheaper w/ free shipping. I have also added a list for FordPartsGiant as this should make it easier for those who wish to bargain shop each individual part.
TASCA PARTS
TUBE ASY 2W9Z-9N499-AC - 1 - $26.52
LOWER HOSE 3W4Z-8286-CB - 1 - $68.94
THERMOSTAT HOUSING 3W4Z-8548-AD - 1 - $43.13
THERMOSTAT COVER 3W4Z-8592-AA - 1 - $38.31
RING - RUBBER -W707299-S300 - 2 - $14.04
THERMOSTAT HSNG SEAL XW4Z-8255-CA - 1 - $3.80
GASKET 96JV-8255-CB - 1 - $3.80
THERMOSTAT GASKET 2W9Z-8590-AB - 1 - $7.62
MANIFOLD GASKET 2W9Z-9439-AA - 2 - $27.94
THERMOSTAT 2W9Z-8575-AB - 1 - $19.38
HOSE ASY 3W4Z-9F814-AA - 1 - $23.52
UPPER HOSE 3W4Z-8260-BC - 1 - $51.03
WATER PUMP 2W9Z-8501-BB - 1 - $130.13
BOLT - HEX.HEAD -W500215-S309 - 4 - $7.96
SERPENTINE BELT 2W9Z-8620-GB - 1 - $29.42
THERMOSTAT HSNG CAP 3W4Z-8A511-AB - 1 - $33.27
RESERVOIR 5W4Z-8A080-AA - 1 - $171.49
FORD PARTS GIANT
TUBE ASY 2W9Z-9N499-AC - 1 - $27.21
HOSE ASY 3W4Z-8286-CB - 1 - $70.74
TUBE – WATER INLET 3W4Z-8548-AD - 1 - $44.25
CONNECTION – WATER O 3W4Z-8592-AA - 1 - $39.31
RING - RUBBER -W707299-S300 - 4 - $28.80
GASKET XW4Z-8255-CA - 1 - $3.89
GASKET 96JV-8255-CB - 1 - $3.89
SEAL 2W9Z-8590-AB - 1 - $7.82
GASKET – INTAKE MANI 2W9Z-9439-AA - 2 - $28.68
THERMOSTAT ASY 2W9Z-8575-AB - 1 - $19.88
HOSE ASY 3W4Z-9F814-AA - 1 - $24.13
HOSE ASY 3W4Z-8260-BC - 1 - $36.67
PUMP ASY - WATER 2W9Z-8501-BB - 1 - $127.87
BOLT - HEX.HEAD -W500215-S309 - 4 - $8.16
V-BELT 2W9Z-8620-GB - 1 - $28.91
CAP ASY - RADIATOR 3W4Z-8A511-AB - 1 - $34.14
TANK ASY – RADIATOR 5W4Z-8A080-AA - 1 - $175.96
Hopefully this is helpful to someone!
EsaEsLaElEs
LVC Member
I did a search for 19A095 and page 3 of this comes up.
This is mine AFTER overhaul and bleeding done.
Coolant overhaul done (many struggles! ha), by-the-book bled, 30 miles on it, no leaks, huge sigh of relief!!!
This maybe belongs in a different thread but I did the entire fill/bleed process, engine running, all the while without this 19A095 ground wire hooked up. It was clicking and missing as if bad coil(s) and/or injectors (it didn't do this previously; I was puzzled but proceeded).
Bleeding done, I then looked around and found the ground hanging in back of main harness junction plastic. Just great. Would I have done damage with it running like this for about 15 minutes?
With ground attached, where it belongs!,, it ran much more smoothly, no clicking sound, yet still as if one bad COP.
As a side note btw, with IM out, I DID change the spark plugs (platinum AGSP32FSM). RH side went quickly although I didn't test each coil. LH side went slower, but I did test each coil and the 4 tested good. BUT on each side 1 or 2 COPs seemed to go in as if not seating onto the plug real good - a bit too easily (I did use dielectric).
Back to the main question: coolant system replaced, new IM gaskets, torqued by the book, new spark plugs, bleeding and idling 15 minutes . . . ground wire not attached. Did I damage anything by this?
This is mine AFTER overhaul and bleeding done.
Coolant overhaul done (many struggles! ha), by-the-book bled, 30 miles on it, no leaks, huge sigh of relief!!!
This maybe belongs in a different thread but I did the entire fill/bleed process, engine running, all the while without this 19A095 ground wire hooked up. It was clicking and missing as if bad coil(s) and/or injectors (it didn't do this previously; I was puzzled but proceeded).
Bleeding done, I then looked around and found the ground hanging in back of main harness junction plastic. Just great. Would I have done damage with it running like this for about 15 minutes?
With ground attached, where it belongs!,, it ran much more smoothly, no clicking sound, yet still as if one bad COP.
As a side note btw, with IM out, I DID change the spark plugs (platinum AGSP32FSM). RH side went quickly although I didn't test each coil. LH side went slower, but I did test each coil and the 4 tested good. BUT on each side 1 or 2 COPs seemed to go in as if not seating onto the plug real good - a bit too easily (I did use dielectric).
Back to the main question: coolant system replaced, new IM gaskets, torqued by the book, new spark plugs, bleeding and idling 15 minutes . . . ground wire not attached. Did I damage anything by this?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It's possible that you damaged the PCM, but more likely that there are more bad COPs. All should be replaced at the same time, with the spark plugs. How did you "test" the coils? Resistance tests are nearly useless and will not catch the main way the COPs fail.
EsaEsLaElEs
LVC Member
Pretty thankful at this point to say the least.
Unfortunately, in my rush I only did Ohm test, that is very correct (HOW-TO on changing spark plugs, at the end of that is a not-so-great Tube video). Each 4 tested, climbed to 1.0 (one was 0.9). The other thing with RH side, didn't check plug gap. LH side I did, but again too hurriedly. They were consistently 1.4 mm gap, left them that way. Mistake. It's the 3.0L that has 1.3 to 1.45 mm gap, the 3.9L, as you already know, 1.0 to 1.1 mm (are they pre-gapped for the 6? hmmmm).
But good news (and more bad news, haha).
The simplest thing and not mentioned, it sat for 7 weeks on 1/4 tank of gas (fluctuating fall temperatures and such)(condensation collecting and ethanol soaking in the moisture for the bottom). On Sunday after the first 10-12 miles, I filled up with non-oxy. 91, then an additional 12 miles. Monday only 4 miles. Then this morning decided to put 4 miles on it. Amazement to follow: from starting up it was smoother and after returning running smooth as ever, possibly more so! Firing on all 8 and a fine ride. After today there's 79 miles on it.
Similar to the members comment I quoted above, fix one thing and the EGR will start hissing. I didn't replace a new metal gasket and, although aware, at that point I didn't even care which way it was oriented (50/50 chance); I only wanted it in and without dropping it into the abyss. I'll re-check that the 2 bolts are tight but man did i struggle with that thing on removal, , not pretty. Might be done for.
With all the above I still plan to take it to an auto parts or other to have a scan done (don't have that tool).
The Past Sat/Sun here in MN the day temp was 50F, thus my hurry. (Monday late afternoon, got the 4 splash guard pieces on and it started sleeting and raining on me). Today (Tuesday) the day temp was at 20F. It also turned out to be the best day in a while for this car.
The worst bad news, sadly, this car needs all fresh VC gaskets real bad - no surprise to notables and others here. Some oil in each plug well and QUITE the layer of oily gobby muck in every air intake (even way up to the plastic of the IM). No time for that over the weekend and even on seeing that mess I only hoped to get C/S assembled and to be problem-free for a few more miles. Yea, we happy Vincent!!!
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
A resistance test is useless. It will only detect gross failures of the coils. Please see the pdf linked below for the correct (useful) way to test the coils.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...05-22-08.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3txEPhq02h9jieBSYi36Yt
EsaEsLaElEs
LVC Member
I will do a searching of how to properly test CoilOverPlugs. Overall very happy and feel pretty fortunate (lucky) that it's as good as it is right now . . . learned what I know of this car on the LVC. Did I mention even the A/C works (with new DCCV). I really need it, HA
Did I mention even the A/C works (with new DCCV). I really need it, HA
EsaEsLaElEs
LVC Member
You read my mind, or my draft, hahaha, thanks and I'll try to "contribute" if I ever have anything. I'm going to read the attached manana, and big THANKS
EsaEsLaElEs
LVC Member
Back to that engine ground (when absent), a very interesting peculiarity - to me anyway - for those first 15 minutes of running it without that ground attached the engine indicator light went off. That lite has been on since i've had the car for 3 yrs and 4 mo's.
With ground hooked up and starting the car, the light returned immediately. For a moment there I really thought I did something significant. Maybe it went out until it discovered the EGR air leak and that I messed that thing up. I'll take the ground off again to make sure (jk).
Thanks for the replies, Appreciate all the help to be found here!
Bumping an old thread for some info.
My 06 LS overheated as they always eventually do. I replaced the coolant pipe under the throttle body last year, so I thought the likely culprit was the thermostat housing assembly. I replaced the assembly with a Dorman cause I couldn't be down for a long time and will replace with OEM parts.
While filling from the engine fill opening, like I have done several times, coolant started to dump onto the driveway from the back of the engine bay. I have read that the hose on the rear of the intake can fail and I wanted to inspect it since I have everything apart.
Can someone tell me how to depressurize the fuel system so i can remove the intake manifold? I tried following a link on here to the instructions but the link is broken. Instructions with pics would be really appreciated.
Also another member mentioned that filling from the "engine fill" can result in the spillage I mentioned above, but I have never had this happened before. Can someone provide details and pics if available.
Thanks in advance.
-Will
My 06 LS overheated as they always eventually do. I replaced the coolant pipe under the throttle body last year, so I thought the likely culprit was the thermostat housing assembly. I replaced the assembly with a Dorman cause I couldn't be down for a long time and will replace with OEM parts.
While filling from the engine fill opening, like I have done several times, coolant started to dump onto the driveway from the back of the engine bay. I have read that the hose on the rear of the intake can fail and I wanted to inspect it since I have everything apart.
Can someone tell me how to depressurize the fuel system so i can remove the intake manifold? I tried following a link on here to the instructions but the link is broken. Instructions with pics would be really appreciated.
Also another member mentioned that filling from the "engine fill" can result in the spillage I mentioned above, but I have never had this happened before. Can someone provide details and pics if available.
Thanks in advance.
-Will
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You can pull the fuel pump fuse and run the engine till it dies. Instead of that, I just throw a rag over the quick disconnect and let the little bit of fuel spray into that as it separates. The trick to the fuel disconnect is that while you are inserting the tool, push the lines together, then pull them apart.