replacing fuel pump with broken quick release tabs

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kr mstg

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Hi.
I;m wanting to replace my 2000 ls 3.9L fuel pump. It has two ( red and white) quick disconnects on the white cap to the fuel tank. the tabs you press in are broke and missing, should i cut the lines on the inside of the tank and replace with fuel hose and hose clamps?? i tried to pry up the the quick disconnects but it cracked the side of the ring and i could never get either hose to release. Looking for options thanks
 
those tabs simply deform the plastic ring enough to loosen the grip on the fuel tube. If you use a pair of needle nose pilers to 'gently' squeeze that plastic ring you should be able to get the tube out. You often have to push the tube in a little then pull it out.

I would not cut the fuel line.
 
I'll try to gently press the ring together to see of i can release the lines. If i can't get the lines to release my only option is to cut the fuel line to the pump and replace with proper fuel line hose and clamps.

I just replaced the fuel pump about 4 months ago. The issue i"m having is the car idles fine for a few mins then starts to slowly increase in rough idle until it dies. It has hesitation going up hills. When i accelerate the hesitation goes away. It is only noticeable at idle or going up hills b4 it gears down. The only other thing is maybe one of the coil packs is going out or fuel module in located in trunk is malfunctioning.

It doesn't throw any codes and it doesn't misfire. I've cleaned the intake and mass air sensor. Also installed a new IAC valve.
 
Ok i just checked the fuel rail pressure. It is 42 psi with key on and engine off. I put on the gauge and drove around with it. It sporadically jumped around between 27-31 psi and no vacuum. any ideas?? possibly a bad fuel injector?? It has died just running at idle around 5 times now. i didn't have the gauge when this happened. this is why i think it is the fuel pump or fuel module. Bad Injector or bad coil wouldn't kill the engine , it would run sh!tty but not die. I have no engine codes so no help there.
 
kr mstg said:
Ok i just checked the fuel rail pressure. It is 42 psi with key on and engine off. I put on the gauge and drove around with it. It sporadically jumped around between 27-31 psi and no vacuum. any ideas?? possibly a bad fuel injector?? It has died just running at idle around 5 times now. i didn't have the gauge when this happened. this is why i think it is the fuel pump or fuel module. Bad Injector or bad coil wouldn't kill the engine , it would run sh!tty but not die. I have no engine codes so no help there.
Click to expand...

Fuel pressure is regulated electronically, relative to engine intake manifold vacuum. Fuel pressure will be decreased as intake vacuum increases. You should see the lowest pressures when decelerating, and the highest with the engine off. Without a pressure reading when it actually stalls, you don't have anything to say that fuel pressure is a problem.

If fuel pressure is the actual problem, then it could be because of the fuel pressure sensor, the PCM, the data bus wiring, the REM, electrical power, or the fuel pump.

I've heard of LS's with faulty PCM power relays stalling. Have you checked that?
 
remember - rail pressure is not the same as pressure at the nozzle.... so the PCM tries to maintain 40psi at the nozzle. So - at idle, you have 18-20hg of vacuum (~-10psi) in the manifold (where the tip of the nozzle is - so you will only see ~30psi at the rail.
 
Ok i just replaced the fuel pump (free- warranty) and it still has what i would call a miss but no codes. I recently changed the spark plugs and put dielectric grease in the coil pack tips.. I have no idea on how to check the PCm for proper operation. I beginning to believe i have a failed coil pack. Ford will run a diagnoses on it monday, so i can then replace whatever they find out. any other ideas to check b4 monday?
 
kr mstg said:
Ok i just replaced the fuel pump (free- warranty) and it still has what i would call a miss but no codes. I recently changed the spark plugs and put dielectric grease in the coil pack tips.. I have no idea on how to check the PCm for proper operation. I beginning to believe i have a failed coil pack. Ford will run a diagnoses on it monday, so i can then replace whatever they find out. any other ideas to check b4 monday?
Click to expand...

They are not coil packs. They are COPs.

Coil pack = assembly with two or three coils that fire four or six plugs.

COP = Coil On Plug, a single coil that goes over a single spark plug.


The experiences of very many LS and Thunderbird owners tend to indicate that you would be much better off to replace all eight COPs at once than to try and diagnose which ones are marginally failing this month. Unless you just replaced them a week ago, all of the spark plugs should be changed too.
(A failing COP can damage a spark plug. A failing spark plug will damage the new COP.)
 
No i mean the coil pack on the COP, to be more technical. That is a common failure for LS's also. thanks but i'm sure we all knew what i was talking about. I'm needing some ideas of what else to check.
 
kr mstg said:
No i mean the coil pack on the COP, to be more technical. ....
Click to expand...

???????

The COP has a single coil. It is not and does not have a coil pack.

Yes, I knew what you meant, but I mistakenly thought that you might want to use the correct term.

As far as what else to check...
I don't like the idea of throwing parts at a problem (like a fuel pump), however I make an exception for coils (COPs) on this car because they fail so often and very few have an oscilloscope to test them with.
I'd say change out the coils and plugs first. If you still have a problem after that, you'll need a Ford specific scan tool and the factory manuals. If you don't have those items, then it's best to go to a dealer and pay the diagnostic charge.
 
Ok, The "cop's" are $50 a piece and ford will diagnose for $80 so i think i will wait until then to replace the COP's or whatever else might be wrong. I don't have oscilliscope, but i do at UMKC. Let's go hypothetical in case someone does have oscilliscope. what should they look for on the monitor and what settings?

also many thanks to all suggestions and comments

I've checked passenger side bank for oil and its clean.. i think its bank 1 with cylinders 1-4. next up driver side.
 
damn crazy clip connectors!

yeah, i had the same problem on my 01, stupid clips would not release, basically the long plastic sleeve was stuck, i ended up yanking the plastic piece out of the socket and breaking the clips,,,,so off to the homedepot for some plastic epoxy, 1 minute setup, good stuff, covered the parts with epoxy and reinstalled. no problems, no leaks.

the other problem, going up hills, could be cheap gas or IAC valve needs replaced?
 
Ok thanks. I replaced IAC 6 months ago. It was acting up at 1/4 tank so i filled it up from different gas station and I still have same issue. i will get it tested this morning and keep u all posted.

many thanks for your comments and help.
 
It was a COP on the number 5 cylinder. It runs like a champ now. thanks to everyone
 
Most auto parts stores will rent you a NOID tester to check your injectors. Use the FORD or BOSCH adapter.
 
Updating thread in case anyone has trouble loosing broken fuel line quick connects on the fuel pump. This thread was useful in understanding how to release the tab with the top of the connector broke. All you need to do is keep the little red ring pushed down while trying to pull the hose out of the connector. My tabs were still in tact but pushing them in wouldn't loosen the hose so I broke it off so I could have more access to the red ring. I used hose pliers to push down the little red fitting, the angle allowed pressure to be applied on both sides.

http://contour.org/ceg-vb/forum/general/general-discussions/51838-fuel-fitting-removal

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61iqDQPvKYL._SX450_.jpg
 
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