Replacing Radiator on 2003 v8

MixGotAnLS

MixGotAnLS

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Alright so this car has been giving me a crazy amount of problems the past couple of months

anyways overheating, crack in the radiator, I'm not the most mechanical man on the planet haha but was wondering how complicated it is to replace this and if any of y'all may have a link somewhere that i can see exactly what's involved before i bring it back into the shop for another week.

Thanks in advance
 
As far as the radiator goes, it's a pain. I'm a pretty accomplished DIYer and I thought it sucked. There is just too much stuff in too small of a place. It really helps to have a good helper. My wife tried to help me, but she just wasn't aware what to do. A buddy helped me the second night, and it went much better. There are lots of bolts to removed and parts that must go back opposite of the order they were removed (first off, last on...).
 
Gus_Mahn said:
As far as the radiator goes, it's a pain. I'm a pretty accomplished DIYer and I thought it sucked. There is just too much stuff in too small of a place. It really helps to have a good helper. My wife tried to help me, but she just wasn't aware what to do. A buddy helped me the second night, and it went much better. There are lots of bolts to removed and parts that must go back opposite of the order they were removed (first off, last on...).
Click to expand...

i feel ur pain, i was stuck for a minute til my sisters boyfriend came over and we got it out finally, damn thing still overheating, trying to bleed this damn system thats whats driving me crazy now
 
Start the engine and turn the heater to the defrost (90°F) position.
Click to expand...

What exactly does that mean? Max the temperature, and push the windshield defrost button?
 
M4rk said:
What exactly does that mean? Max the temperature, and push the windshield defrost button?
Click to expand...

the instructions i have dont even mention that smh


"Add coolant to the degas bottle or through the fill cap on the engine till it comes out the bleeder.

On 3.0L engines, close the front bleeder. On all engines, leave the heater core bleeder open.

Install the filler cap and start the engine.

Turn the heater controls to maximum heat.

As the engine warms up, close the heater core bleeder when coolant flows from it.

Run the engine at 2,000 rpm for 3–5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.

Return to idle and verify that hot air still comes from the heater.

Set the heater control to 75°F (24°C) and let the engine idle for 2 minutes.

Stop the engine. After it cools, check the coolant level in the degas bottle and add coolant as necessary."


just followed the steps we shall see in about an hr if my baby is operational again
 
Those are gen I (sort of) instructions.
You have a gen II. I posted a link to the gen II instructions.
 
Dude I feel your pain. Last week the dealership said my radiator was plugged up and it needs to be replaced. It will cost 700.00 bucks parts and labor. I plan on buying one from Tasca and installing it after my vacation. I have to get it up and running great again I'm putting to many miles on my 06 LS. Well Good Luck to us both!
 
Perfect thread!
Over the past two weeks I have noticed a small wet spot under the right front that proved to be coolant. After cleaning, running and searching, I finally located the leak...

2004lincolnlscrackedrad.jpg


So the question, what brands have you guys used? Were they worth it/would you buy again? What brand would you recommended most? Now I know the default answer is always "factory" but alternate options are not always inferior, but factory or not I need a new radiator! :( Thus the reason I am asking about your experiences.

I've only ever had to replace two radiators due to faults, one in an '88 Ford Taurus 3.8L and one in an '83 Toyota 4x4 and both were with nearly new wrecking yard units. I've remove and reinstalled many for various reasons so the actual work is not a concern for me.

Some online prices after a couple quick searches.
FordParts - 288.61
Tasca - 229.28
RockAuto - 77.79-104.79
Napa - 164.00 (I can likely get a better price walking in as I get good discounts locally)
O'Reilly - 155.99

*Oh and this means that I have a Radiator and Magnaflow 23936 Cat's to install now. :eek:

Thanks,
 
Blk04LS said:
Perfect thread!
Over the past two weeks I have noticed a small wet spot under the right front that proved to be coolant. After cleaning, running and searching, I finally located the leak...

2004lincolnlscrackedrad.jpg


So the question, what brands have you guys used? Were they worth it/would you buy again? What brand would you recommended most? Now I know the default answer is always "factory" but alternate options are not always inferior, but factory or not I need a new radiator! :( Thus the reason I am asking about your experiences.

I've only ever had to replace two radiators due to faults, one in an '88 Ford Taurus 3.8L and one in an '83 Toyota 4x4 and both were with nearly new wrecking yard units. I've remove and reinstalled many for various reasons so the actual work is not a concern for me.

Some online prices after a couple quick searches.
FordParts - 288.61
Tasca - 229.28
RockAuto - 77.79-104.79
Napa - 164.00 (I can likely get a better price walking in as I get good discounts locally)
O'Reilly - 155.99

*Oh and this means that I have a Radiator and Magnaflow 23936 Cat's to install now. :eek:

Thanks,
Click to expand...

my **** cracked in the same place

i just bought the 1 from Autozone lifetime warranty on it
 
Mine came from Advance for $130 After 20% online discount. It's been in about a year without any issues.
 
I put an Advance auto radiator in my 71 mustang back in 2000. Still good. I put rockauto units in 93 Grand Cherokee, and 1994 F150 with good results. Sorry no LS specific radiator experience.
 
This is un-real. I just replaced my radiator with a crack in the exact same spot as Blk04LS's pic.

If it's any encouragement I did it myself with about 45 minutes of help from a curious electrician that was installing a porch light for me that day. Total job time was about 5 hours. I consider myself a novice wrenchman. I'm a right arm amputee.

I am however still suffering from the fine tuning. Can't seem to get the fan to turn on, which in turn may have blown my compressor's pressure release valve. It hissed madly for about 10 minutes upon first start up and since then is not cooling.

I too used the Advance Auto Ready-Rad for around $105 after discount.
 
03, so you should have the fan with the two connectors, the heavy current connector and the control connector. Did you reconnect both?
The AC has a pressure sensor on the high side. It should have shut the compressor off before it got high enough to trigger the pressure relief.
 
MA70 Ed said:
sorry to revive an old thread, been searching like mad.

so the rad can be pulled from the top in a 2nd gen?

this darn thing is the most complicated car I've worked on yet!
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From what I understand it can be removed from the top, but it is infinitely easier (almost required) to load from the bottom.
 
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