Replacing the cooling fan pump actuator

T

TomServo92

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OK, I have the actuator and I'm trying to decide on the best way to tackle the job. Is it easier to get to the actuator from above or below? Do I need to remove the hose coming from the reservoir? Any help is appreciated!
 
actuator

Serph belt comes off first. Then, syphon the fluid from the reservoir. A little syringe with a vinyl tube can actually be slipped down into the suction line through the reservoir fill opening to get almost all of the oil out. Next, the alternator from below. You have to un-restrain that big line running across the frame and bend it down to get the alternator out......2 clamp points. Then get the large pump return line out of the way. Figure out the actuator electrical connector and remove that. This connector swivels, just for info. Then, with a Torx, don't remember the size, the actuator comes out. Bleed the pump after buttoning up.....a couple of different ways to do this. I prefer removing the reservoir and using the syringe above to keep the pump return line topped off and sucking on the system return while spinning the fan and turning the pump by hand.
 
Actuator

Good question, Tom. If you can remove the actuator without removing the pump suction line, you may be able to do the job without draining. Just keep a pan handy. Fluid does come out when the part is removed.
 
OK, got it done. Here's how I did it:

1. Removed underbody panel to get access to the pump from below.
2. Removed intake tube to have better access to reservoir.
3. Siphoned off all the fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster.
4. Disconnected the suction line from the reservoir only.
5. Pushed line out the way of the actuator (used oil drain pan to catch any fluid).
6. I was able to get a small ratchet with a T-40 bit into the small area behind the pump and broke the actuator loose.
7. Using a T-40 screwdriver, I removed the actuator from the pump.
8. Using the wiring harness (note I didn't disconnect it first), I fished the actuator up from above and disconnected it from the harness (where it was much easier).
9. Reverse steps 1-8 to install new actuator.
10. Refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid.

It works like a champ now. Since I didn't let the suction tube or pump lose all of their fluid, there was no need to prime the pump.
 
Actuator

Awesome report, Tom. My thanks again to the LS Forum Senior members for guiding me through this repair last summer. Great variation.....disconnecting the electrical above AFTER removing the actuator.
 
rt2barbers said:
Awesome report, Tom. My thanks again to the LS Forum Senior members for guiding me through this repair last summer. Great variation.....disconnecting the electrical above AFTER removing the actuator.
Click to expand...

Necessity is the mother of invention. I couldn't get it disconnected while still on the pump.
 
Actuator

The "Tom" method may be the most efficient and easiest way to do the actuator replacement. If the job can be done with the suction line on the pump, I agree that the bleeding step may be unnecessary considering that the actuator is probably on the pump discharge and fluid may conceivably keep the pumping chamber "loaded."

Did the new actuator restore fan high-speed capability?
 
rt2barbers said:
The "Tom" method may be the most efficient and easiest way to do the actuator replacement. If the job can be done with the suction line on the pump, I agree that the bleeding step may be unnecessary considering that the actuator is probably on the pump discharge and fluid may conceivably keep the pumping chamber "loaded."

Did the new actuator restore fan high-speed capability?
Click to expand...

Yes, it did. Before I replaced it, the fan was turning but I could barely feel any air movement.
 
I had to take the LS on a trip today. Over 200 miles in 90 degree heat with the A/C blasting and she didn't miss a beat. It appears my repairs were definitely a success.
 
actuator

Tom,

Thanks for the input on changing the actuator. I used your exact instructions and it worked well. Took less than a hour and yes it also restored my fan to high speed operation. ;)

Thanks for everyone's input on my overheating issues as they are now taken care off and for a cost of less than $200. Replaced thermostat housing and pump actuator and all is well now.:D

I just wonder what a dealership would of charged being they would of probably wanted to replace complete pump and fan motor when it only needed an actuator. Does anyone know of a dealership that actually only replaced the actuator to fix the high speed operation of the fan without replacing the whole pump and or fan motor.:rolleyes:
 
I hit this up on another thread already but where can you buy an acuator besides the Stealership?
 
Is there a layman's way to test the fan speed and whether or not it kicks into "high" mode?

Example: should the fan automatically kick into high speed when you press the A/C on?

My car is overheating (not on highway) but at stops and suspect the fan or solenoid, etc.


From the FORD CD:

Hydraulic Cooling Fan Reservoir

Reduce the fluid in the reservoir by half.
Attach the New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester to the vehicle.
Start the engine and command MAX fan.
Maintain 2,500 rpm. Fluid should be observed through the reservoir returning. The internal return also functions as a relief valve; fluid must be observed through the sides of the return. If the fluid is not returning through the sides the screen is plugged. If no or little return is observed or the fluid is returning through the pressure relief, install a new reservoir.


Hydraulic Cooling Fan Motor

Inspect the fan blade and shroud for any foreign materials. Clear the obstruction and continue the test procedure.
Rotate the fan to see if any contact between the shroud and blade exists. If contact is observed install a new fan shroud assembly.
Rotate the fan by hand; the fan should rotate freely (no resistance should be felt, the fan will free wheel with minimum effort). If any resistance is present install a new fan assembly.
Attempt to move the fan blade and shaft in and out and side to side; if any movement is detected install a new fan assembly.


Hydraulic Cooling Fan Pump

WARNING: Do not touch the flowmeter during the test procedure or severe burns and serious injury may occur.

1. CAUTION: Make sure that the connection point will not interfere with any of the engine accessory drive components or drive belts.

NOTE: On some vehicles the port may not be easily accessible. The power steering analyzer should then be hooked up at the hydraulic cooling fan motor or at a point in the high pressure line between the motor and the hydraulic cooling fan pump.

Install the power steering analyzer at the high pressure port of the hydraulic cooling fan pump. Make sure the power steering analyzer gate is fully open.

2. CAUTION: A noisy fan system must be bled and refilled before proceeding with any of the test procedures. For additional information, refer to Hydraulic Cooling Fan System Filling and Bleeding in this section.

Check the cooling fan hydraulic fluid level. If necessary, add fluid.

Use MERCON® Multi-Purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX meeting Ford specification MERCON® or equivalent.
Remove the reservoir screen and place the dial thermometer in the hydraulic cooling fan reservoir.
Start the engine and allow the engine to warm up until the fan turns on.
Allow fluid temperature to reach 74-80°C (165-175°F).
Record the flow rate and pressure readings.
7. NOTE: The pressure relief valve will open at 1,050 ± 100 psi (7,240 kPa ± 689.5 kPa). If the pressure is above 1,200 psi (8,275 kPa), a new pump pressure relief valve must be installed.

Turn the A/C on MAX, and record the flow and pressure readings. The flow and pressure readings should increase.

If the flow and pressure readings do not increase, install a new hydraulic cooling fan pump.
Partially close the gate valve to achieve 300 psi (2,068.5 kPa). The flow rate should be 1.65 ±.25 gpm.
If the flow rate is less than specified, install a new hydraulic cooling fan pump.
 
lsdarkshadow said:
PS.....Replaced the actuator, and wish I had an extra joint in my wrist! Thanks Tom!
Click to expand...

Sorry I didn't reply to your PM! I've been in the process of moving and haven't had time to log into LVC. Glad you were able to get the actuator replaced and I agree, an extra wrist joint would have been helpful!
 
BTW, I just noticed your location says "Movin to Houston". That's where I just moved! I'm living in north Houston near The Woodlands.
 
Guys, i have a major problem and am stuck and need your help. I was changing out my cooling pump Actuator and part of the old Actuator is still screwed into my Cooling Fan Pump housing. It seems part of the Actuator unscrewed from itself when using a #40 Torx to remove the Actuator. See my photos below.

Does Anyone have any ideas on how i can get this extra threaded piece of the Actuator out of the pump itself?

I don't think screwing the old actuator back in and then trying again will help. I thought of trying to take a vice grips to the part still in the pump, but the access to get a vice grips in there is limited.

Photo #1 shows the Brand new uninstalled Actuator on the Left, the old Actuator on the right (what came out of the car)

Photo #2 shows the new Actuator on the bottom, the old Actuator on top

Photo #3 shows the part of the old Actuator still screwed into the pump and sticking out (this is the part missing from the old acuator of photo #1).

Seems the design of the actuator and how the pieces are both screwed into each almost makes this happen. I'm surprised if nobody else has encountered this yet.

2000 LS V8 with 160k miles

IMG_3423.jpg


IMG_3422.jpg


IMG_3445c.jpg
 
Kool LS said:
Guys, i have a major problem and am stuck and need your help. I was changing out my cooling pump Actuator and part of the old Actuator is still screwed into my Cooling Fan Pump housing. It seems part of the Actuator unscrewed from itself when using a #40 Torx to remove the Actuator. See my photos below.

Does Anyone have any ideas on how i can get this extra threaded piece of the Actuator out of the pump itself?

I don't think screwing the old actuator back in and then trying again will help. I thought of trying to take a vice grips to the part still in the pump, but the access to get a vice grips in there is limited.

Photo #1 shows the Brand new uninstalled Actuator on the Left, the old Actuator on the right (what came out of the car)

Photo #2 shows the new Actuator on the bottom, the old Actuator on top

Photo #3 shows the part of the old Actuator still screwed into the pump and sticking out (this is the part missing from the old acuator of photo #1).

Seems the design of the actuator and how the pieces are both screwed into each almost makes this happen. I'm surprised if nobody else has encountered this yet.

2000 LS V8 with 160k miles
Click to expand...

Wow. I don't even know how to begin tackling that one.
 
if u were to dremel a slot across the head of what's left in there, would you be able to get an L shaped flat head screwdriver in there to turn it? Or something like this with a flathead on the end?
 
and is that in there TIGHT. From experience, those flex screwdrivers dont have much torque at all. An L shaped flathead might be the better option?
 
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