2000 LS v8. Engine stalling occasionally at stop lights, but power not shutting down from battery. Jerking from time to time mainly when accelerating along with what seems like slower acceleration than normal. CEL has been on once or twice (not counting stalling at light), but went away with restarting it (even after stalls). My first thought especially with the LS is maybe bad COPs causing misfires in the cylinders. Going to head over to Oreilly's tomorrow to see if they can pull some codes. What do you guys think?
Rough ride, maybe COPs? 2000 V8
- Thread starter Atrix
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1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Had what sounds like same crap happen to me after I bought 2004 LS V8. Make sure fuel filter is new and good to start, my son and I also changed out coils and LS got new NGK iridium plugs. We also used using dielectric grease on coils near top inside where spring fits and on all springs were fit over plug ends, we even coated rubber seal on both coil covers. Plug wells were dry as bone and pretty clean when we took covers off. Then used over two quarts of Lucas fuel system and injector cleaner lube in tank after every fill up as directed until engine ran strong all the time. I still let it warm just a bit when started always and maybe bit more after it rains or sat unused over two days and do not let tank go much under 1/4 or 100 miles of fuel left. I was close to pulling injectors for 24 hour bath in cleaning tank but also was worried tank was filled inside with two years of sludge. Glad that the fuel system cleaner and other maintenance done worked. Good Luck,
Yeah I was thinking coils or something related to misfires as well. However... I went to Oreilly's today to get codes. I got back about 5 or 6 codes that led to completely random unrelated issues throughout the car, mainly electrical. Not even one code for any of the cylinders. After leaving Oreilly's, my transmission started acting up as well along with a "gear select data error"message momentarily and a "check transmission" message which has popped up in the past once or twice. I've had a few different lights and messages pop up in the past week or two and other than a consistent "check advanced track" message, they are usually different and always go away. In light of all of this, I'm thinking maybe I've got some issues with the PCM or some kind of electrical issue related to that as it is hard to believe that 5 or 6 unnoticed new issues all of a sudden popped up at once with all of the pulled codes.... I guess a bad PCM might not be too bad with all things considered.
Codes
p0722: No signal from Output Shaft Speed Sensor
p1000: Monitor Testing not complete
p1233: Fuel System Disabled or offline
u1262: SCP Communication Bus fault- Perform Network Communications Test
c1287: Dealership code, not defined
p0722: No signal from Output Shaft Speed Sensor
p1000: Monitor Testing not complete
p1233: Fuel System Disabled or offline
u1262: SCP Communication Bus fault- Perform Network Communications Test
c1287: Dealership code, not defined
replace all 8 coils, and get all of the other basic maintenance items in check first... ie. sparkplugs, maf, fuel filter, air filter, dump a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas, etc.
then disconnect battery and follow the procedures to reconnect it, which are found in the owners manual and service manual/pced <search>. after doing all that, report back if codes/CELs/symptoms come back or persist
then disconnect battery and follow the procedures to reconnect it, which are found in the owners manual and service manual/pced <search>. after doing all that, report back if codes/CELs/symptoms come back or persist
Hello Atrix,
My experience with car is just so limited I have to agree with jrand. I am not sure how long you have owned car but if you have not had very long and have not done basic maintenance I would do plugs, coils, fuel filter, mass airflow may be dirty or connection not working. Sounds like time to start with basics do some reading and learn what you can and I also agree with fuel cleaner and battery disconnect. Maybe was done before but did not work in clearing all codes. Would be good to start with fresh fuel, plugs and coils -- quality injector and fuel cleaner. If same crap starts over then can look elsewhere. jrand is correct if you have manuel it offers some good advice and how to's. If not can usually find used on E bay. Good Luck!
wes b.
My experience with car is just so limited I have to agree with jrand. I am not sure how long you have owned car but if you have not had very long and have not done basic maintenance I would do plugs, coils, fuel filter, mass airflow may be dirty or connection not working. Sounds like time to start with basics do some reading and learn what you can and I also agree with fuel cleaner and battery disconnect. Maybe was done before but did not work in clearing all codes. Would be good to start with fresh fuel, plugs and coils -- quality injector and fuel cleaner. If same crap starts over then can look elsewhere. jrand is correct if you have manuel it offers some good advice and how to's. If not can usually find used on E bay. Good Luck!
wes b.
Well if I had $800 to change out the basics every time something goes wrong with my car without a guarantee of that fixing it I would haha besides I already had maintenance done a couple weeks ago (aside from coils) when I bought the car. However, I took it into my local shop. They tested the alternator to make sure it wasn't putting out too much power (ended up fine) and the ignition coils. Turns out that it was, in fact, coils on #4 and #7 causing misfires. Idk, I just have a hard time putting in a bunch of new parts in exchange for parts that may or may not need to be changed. Glad to have finally found the problem though for sure. Thanks guys!
well just as an fyi you probably need to replace all coils at once in lieu of just the two that misfired. its fairly well known here and highly recommended per experiences of <dare i say> everyone who has tried to jsut replace a couple here and there. search the stickies and you will see what i mean
RigsLS
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This is true. Eventually they will all need to be replaced, but as of right now, I won't be driving regularly (at most 3 times every two weeks to get home from school). So I think I may be able to hold off on replacing all of them for awhile until I'm actually driving regularly later this year or next. I understand the coils are really unreliable, but I might as well get as much out of them as I can especially when I'm not driving everyday, right?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Sure, why not? It's not like it's putting the $2K catalytic converters at risk...
hmm well you do risk messing up the new coils to some extent. depending on how far away the school is it might be worth the gamble to just do the two for now. i dunno if you have advance auto in detroit, but i recommend the coils from advance auto called 'intermotor'. there are coupons at slickdeals.net for advance auto that will save you 40-50% off the list price in the sense that the coils are like $50ea and there are coupons for $20 off $50, $25 off $50, $40 off $100, $50 off $100... just break up the orders as necessary to make sure you get 40-50% off the list price of each coil. i am relatively certain this is hands down the best deal for buying good coils individually. but as others have noted, dont be shocked if you need to get all of them. if you start having misfires after doing just the two coils you need to replace all of them asap
Yeah thanks, Ill look into that. And for sure, the moment that there are more misfires the other coils will be replaced, but it's not like I'm just going to ignore any issues I have with the other coils if they need attention. I'm just buying some time with the coils that aren't having problems while monitoring them to make sure problems don't go ignored.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
food for thought...
the computer cant tell exactly what cylinder is misfiring, it has to make an (educated) guess at which one it is. sometimes it guess wrong.
with the LS, coils don't fully fail, a lot of the time, it may only misfire less than a percent at a time, some times, it may not even really be too noticeable when driving.*
most of the times, long before the cars computer can detect a misfire, RF interference can/will cause a lot of other problems in the car.
once coils start to fail, there are usually other coils starting to fail that probably wont get detected for a bit longer.*
and lastly, to actually test the coils out to find out which ones are bad, will cost as much or more than actually replacing the all coils AND plugs in the first place.
replacing any coils or plugs in the LS without replacing EVERY coil AND plug is just a terrible way to ruin sh!t and cost you fours times as much in the long run...
*meanwhile, doing damage that sooner or later will cost thousands more to properly fix.
the computer cant tell exactly what cylinder is misfiring, it has to make an (educated) guess at which one it is. sometimes it guess wrong.
with the LS, coils don't fully fail, a lot of the time, it may only misfire less than a percent at a time, some times, it may not even really be too noticeable when driving.*
most of the times, long before the cars computer can detect a misfire, RF interference can/will cause a lot of other problems in the car.
once coils start to fail, there are usually other coils starting to fail that probably wont get detected for a bit longer.*
and lastly, to actually test the coils out to find out which ones are bad, will cost as much or more than actually replacing the all coils AND plugs in the first place.
replacing any coils or plugs in the LS without replacing EVERY coil AND plug is just a terrible way to ruin sh!t and cost you fours times as much in the long run...
*meanwhile, doing damage that sooner or later will cost thousands more to properly fix.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
all those being said, the number one rule of LS repair is, because ANY bad coils can/will cause so much RF interference, the PCM thinks all sorts of other problems are wrong, and will throw out weird codes for things that are fine. and for you to fix something, you need to know if the codes you are getting are real or false codes from interference.
since having the coils tested cost more than replacing them, its best no mater what your problem is (joking aside, there are very few exceptions to this) step one, should always be replacing coils and plugs.
since having the coils tested cost more than replacing them, its best no mater what your problem is (joking aside, there are very few exceptions to this) step one, should always be replacing coils and plugs.
Ive already taken it to our local mechanic who determined that the codes were, in fact, from interference. They were just going to replace the bad coils, but I told them that I would just do it since its easy and cheaper to do it myself. But yeah, it would definitely be smart to replace all of them soon.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
just make sure you also replace the plug for any coil that you replace. bad coils kill good plugs and bag plugs kill good coils... also, even if the plug says that it is pre-gapped, make sure to verify and re-gap as needed.