Service Parking Brake

Thanks, Joe, I will do that and report back. In the meantime, the problem has temporarily gone away, even the check engine light that was on for a couple of days. Maybe it will turn out to be something straightforward, like the parking brake control module mentioned above. Time to fire up the OBD II module and my smart phone software.
 
Use FORScan and you can see EXACTLY why the Parking Brake isn't happy. FORScan is free, btw, just get a cheap cable on Amazon. For Example, Forscan told me my parking brake was a bit unhappy because it couldn't detect my speed... That didnt trip the service message, but its interesting to note.
 
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I pulled the codes today using OBD II Whiz software on my phone and the green bluetooth module named OBD Link LX.

Codes:
P2106 - Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Limited Power.
P2135 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A"/"B" Voltage Correlation.

Both of these codes are Confirmed and they are both also Pending. The engine light is currently lit.
 
2005_LS_V8 said:
I pulled the codes today using OBD II Whiz software on my phone and the green bluetooth module named OBD Link LX.

Codes:
P2106 - Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Limited Power.
P2135 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A"/"B" Voltage Correlation.

Both of these codes are Confirmed and they are both also Pending. The engine light is currently lit.
Click to expand...

While it could be the gas pedal assembly or the wiring to it, most ETC codes are caused by marginal ignition coils.
 
Thanks, joe! I did upgrade the coils when I first got the car, when I still worked for NAPA and could get good parts cheap. Perhaps water got in, though I did specifically ask them to seal them as described on this forum. I'll reply back after I take it to my mechanic.
 
I dropped the car off yesterday, mechanic was closed for the holiday weekend. The service manager was up there gathering junk metal for recycling. He remembered putting in the coils.

Anyway, the car was dead that morning, I had not driven it in several days. Jumped off OK, but I am beginning to think the amp install I had done has some wiring issues causing the battery to drain. And possibly causing this fault, because it happened again immediately on the way to the shop. Now that I think about it, this fault may not occur with the stereo off. I'll ask them to check for that.

I'll know more when the mechanics look at it Tuesday. Will not be surprised if I have to have this independent car stereo guy I know work on it from a stereo wiring angle. I'll post again when I learn more.
 
Update: Mechanic said the dead battery wiped out the codes and also that there was a large amperage draw from the stereo. So, two days ago, I went to the car stereo install place near me. That guy said it must be a bad alternator or battery. I went to Advance Auto, where I bought the battery, they said the battery was not defective, just needs to be charged. So I took it home and removed the red power cable to my aftermarket amp. The amp shut off and the head unit still works, for GPS and backup camera.

Removing the amp from the circuit apparently fixed all these electrical issues. No more codes popping up. The battery charged up fine and stays charged. And it was definitely throwing codes that morning, before I removed the amp power wire.

So there is nothing wrong with any module or parking brake or anything else. I just have to find a way to power this stereo system, possibly with another battery or with a higher output alternator. The alternator works fine, but it does not charge my battery fast enough to offset the amplifier draw. The amp was wired directly to the battery to combat electrical whine, so the thing was on constantly.

I may just need to buy a better amp and have it wired using the head unit power signal wire. The amp I used was a Planet Audio 6 channel 1800 watt unit. I'll see if 1LoudLS has posted anything on this situation.
 
Very interesting, found this old post that explains the limitations of the LS alternator and how extra draw on it wreaks havoc on the ECU and of course runs down the battery, exactly what I was seeing and what is gone now:hey,just signed up and already have a ? So, looks like I need a high output alternator, 200 amps.
 
2005_LS_V8 said:
Very interesting, found this old post that explains the limitations of the LS alternator and how extra draw on it wreaks havoc on the ECU and of course runs down the battery, exactly what I was seeing and what is gone now:hey,just signed up and already have a ? So, looks like I need a high output alternator, 200 amps.
Click to expand...

Is your problem that the battery goes dead after the car sits? It's not that it fails while running, right? If so, then this really has nothing to do with the alternator, or the number of batteries. It has every thing to do with the amplifier saying powered up while the car is off. You just need to wire it correctly, or replace the faulty amp - whichever your problem is.

The issues that you found with the LS alternator are for the 1st gen LS, as it used an unusual control scheme. That doesn't apply to the gen 2 LS that you have.
 
The battery did go dead when it sat. However, if all the codes are popping and it goes into limp mode while I'm driving and the battery won't charge while the amplifier is attached and I drive for 15 minutes. Advance Auto's machine said the battery was good, but decharged. If I disconnect the amplifier, the battery charges and the codes stop coming up. So right now, I have no stereo. I put in a similar head unit to yours and it worked, no problem.

Can an amplifier stay on with the key out of the switch? I guess it's possible. It is wired straight to the battery. It's on all the time when the car is on, because I can hear the slight speaker whine. This is the price I pay for trying to goose up my volume. And for using Best Buy installers.
 
They've done it wrong. Most (if not all) amplifiers have a remote turn-on input. Apparently, they haven't connected that correctly.
 
joegr said:
They've done it wrong. Most (if not all) amplifiers have a remote turn-on input. Apparently, they haven't connected that correctly.
Click to expand...

True, that would fix the 'on all the time' problem and I am sure I have that wire on my head unit and the option is available on the amp. However, in my install, there was so much speaker whine that they moved things around quite a bit to try and cut down on that. They installed those filters for that purpose, but that only cut it down a certain amount. I also had the capacitor installed to regulate the power drawdown.

But do you think the stock Gen II alternator has the additional 50 to 70 amps available to run an external amplifier? I read that most alternators have roughly 10% additional capacity. If this is a 110 amp alternator, that won't be enough.
 
The gen II alternator is 134 Amps (derated to 70 Amps at low idle).
 
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