she goes to paint on mon.

how are you getting all the things in your list for under 900? i have 1200 in my primer gun and base/clear gun, so i can only assume you are using cheap tools and materials. so you need to remember when you use cheap you get cheap. and on the other painters flaking out was ther price to paint your whole car 600 900 and 1500? if so wow thats cheap i personally wouldnt touch your car for under 3000 and if it needed jambed it would be more
 
mikeskustomfab said:
how are you getting all the things in your list for under 900? i have 1200 in my primer gun and base/clear gun, so i can only assume you are using cheap tools and materials. so you need to remember when you use cheap you get cheap. and on the other painters flaking out was ther price to paint your whole car 600 900 and 1500? if so wow thats cheap i personally wouldnt touch your car for under 3000 and if it needed jambed it would be more
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I have to agree, not to rag on you or anything but I know if I start from scratch the paint supplies alone are going to be 700+ . My first real gun was 600 and that was a suction gun over 20 years ago, that being said I still have it and it is what I use for primer today. It still shoots nice today. If you use cheap guns you will end up with funky patterns and orange peel for sure.
The DA is nice for knocking it down but you are going to be doing the finish work by hand I assume.
BTW make sure you have plenty of lacquer thinner to clean up your guns, and wipe out all you measuring cups before you use them with it. The use a release agent when they make them, tends to lead to a lot of fisheyes.
 
yes i was going to go super cheap on the guns

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VAPE...t=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item1c1b79d8d0

wont sanding between each stage with 3 layers of base help the blotch and orange peel. i know it is not the easiest or fastest way but i assumed you could get around the sh!ty guns? just more work? i am somewhat ignorant to paint and body work, I have just enough knowledge to get myself in trouble. your advice and help is much appreciated. keep in mind. I am not looking for a show paint job whatsoever just a good solid 3 year job. I will be sick of it by then.

i will be doing the wet sanding by hand i do not trust myself with a da for that. the da is to knock down the filler primer and to help with the few small dings.

And the paint guy comment was based on the fact that I told 3 guys exactly what i wanted satin black, door and trunk jams sprayed, looked my car over and all three said $600 from the start. i was kinda shocked how cheap it was myself. that is why i jumped at the first guy, and was like when can you get to it? he put me off for for a week. ( I thought that was still kinda quick). when i went to see him the second week he said "1 more week see me on fri it will be $750". showed up on fri, then it was $850 if i disassembled the bumpers lights and trim. he says he can get to it on Monday.. I show up the following mon. and before i could even get out of the car he tells me to beat feet over to macco...( he did apologize like 3x) the second guy viewed the car on that same mon. (yesterday) on this cite, tells me "should be able to do it for $6 to $700. let me check on paint cost and i will call you in an hour." that was noon, no call... so I call him back at 6 pm he says "yeah for about $900 i can do it, i have one last thing I want to check on i will call you tomorrow morning". then no call all day.... so I call him at about 2 or 3 and he then says $1500-$2000. so i am like wtf. the third guy did basically the same thing. within 2 phone calls it went from $900 to $1500. now i am dieing to paint my car. i have the space and the money. so why not try it. cant turn out worse than it already is.

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sorry for the novel
 
zmt325 said:
thank you for the info
i will be buying the kit they sell like for $120, you showed it to me before. i will not wax it for 2 or 3 months after painting it to allow the clear to properly cure
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I forgot I had mentioned it before... lol.
 
If you're looking for a 3yr job take it to macco. I prepped the hell out of one of my old cars before I took it there and it turned out great for a single stage. Cost like 400 bucks.
 
what color ar eyou going with now? and dont wet sand between coats of base it wil not help blotches or streaks, and will caus you more work by having to add mutipale extra layers. only time you want to do that is if you need to sand out a amall inoerfection or chuck of dirt then dust a few layers over that to cover it back up. to eleminate blotches or streaks you need gun control and a properly set up gun and exsperiance.
 
oh and another thing if your still going flat with a flattning agent in the clear you need to be sure you can lay it down nice. get it dry it will look like crap get a run or sag in it then you ether have to live with it or redo the entire panel. and be sure you clean clean clean, the car and shop any dirt that gets in it is ther for good because you can not cut and buff flat clear because it will shine back up.
 
Being your first paint job you should stay away from the satin/flat look. Much harder to lay down without tiger stripes.
 
Im not experienced with painting cars in any way but i do know black is the hardest color by far as many others will tell u. I had a stage 2 restoration on my black gen 2 done last summer by a professional body shop and paid over 7 x what you are looking to pay. (this same shop did my mark 7 years ago and did an excellent job so i figured i would give them another shot) Even at that price and 2 months of work, they still had to re-shoot the roof because of that orange peel look in 1 very small spot that showed up only in the right angle of sunlight. Personally, i would save up more money and get it done right. Your probably about 4k to get a decent paint job and you will even be able to take the thing out in the day light :p
 
Being a painter and body man ever since I graduated high school (8 years ago) I can tell you that black is not the hardest color to spray. It's the hardest color to get straight witch means when you think its straight block it out again. And if they repainted it due to some Orange peal then it wasn't peal. It had to be something under the base coat that was comeing threw. Because if it was peal you can just cut and buff it out.
 
mikeskustomfab said:
Being a painter and body man ever since I graduated high school (8 years ago) I can tell you that black is not the hardest color to spray. It's the hardest color to get straight witch means when you think its straight block it out again. And if they repainted it due to some Orange peal then it wasn't peal. It had to be something under the base coat that was comeing threw. Because if it was peal you can just cut and buff it out.
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Well im sure it was def what u say (something under base coat) but regardless, i just go by what im told by the professionals about the difficulty level and additional cost for black by multiple bodyshops. However, my main point is he will be much better off paying a professional like yourself opposed to spraying it himself or hiring some tool to spray it for $900. Chances are he will get what he pays for and its a hard lesson not quality work.
 
I was always told silver metallic or any candy was the hardest to spray. the candy because you can not see it and the silver because of the reflectivity. I am dead set on doing this I am about a month out from doing it. once i get all the materials i am going to practice on a spare hood I have (good advice).

dont know if i said this in a previous post or not but since deciding that i am doing it myself I have decided to go with a satin grey and black out all the chrome.
 
I'm told silver is the hardest to make look good, black just takes extra time because of all the blocking. But around here you CAN get great paint jobs for under $1000.
 
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