Shifting issues 2004 LS V6

The valve body is a separate thing from the solenoid assembly. The 1st gen had a spring in the valve body that would fail, but I haven't heard of that on the 2nd gen. Still, a problem with the valve body is a valid concern, as are worn servo bores and broken servos.
 
joegr said:
The valve body is a separate thing from the solenoid assembly. The 1st gen had a spring in the valve body that would fail, but I haven't heard of that on the 2nd gen. Still, a problem with the valve body is a valid concern, as are worn servo bores and broken servos.
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Ok ,i gave the symptoms to both these eBayers and they both gave me their input and were outstanding in customer service including a free valve body to help me out.
 
Insulate the pipe past the converters. I had initial engagement lag into 1st gear for years until last year I fully insulated them front manifolds to rear mufflers. The lag went away permanently, no difference hot or cold. Go get Aamco lifetume. Mine came with a 20k fluid & filter change and at 75k on this rebuild is better than new, especially with a Bassani X-pipe in place of the stock blend chamber. I now have mid-range power. More fun than a barrel of monkeys!

20191224_141324.jpg
 
Just drove it around today ,hoping by some miracle that it would start working......it did not.
The car barely shifts at a much higher than normal rpm and makes a high squeal when it does shift and then down shifts right back into first again but if I am very careful in the gas pedal ,it will shift smoothly and I can take it up to 50+ mph. I still have the valve body,plugs and COPs to install but this Covid-19 bullshit has put a damper on things.
Also ,what if one or more of the balls were lost when the valve body was removed because the mechanic that replaced the shift module said that he heard some things come out of the shift module when he replaced it and I wouldn't think that would be good.
 
Also ,I did change the throttle body out with a new one and there was absolutely no change.
 
Still haven't pulled the trigger. I drive it every so often and it seems to be getting better but still erratic mr i can feel it shift early and it revs to 4-5k before it shifts around 30 ,then it goes like a bat out of hell.
 
SENECA said:
Still haven't pulled the trigger. I drive it every so often and it seems to be getting better but still erratic mr i can feel it shift early and it revs to 4-5k before it shifts around 30 ,then it goes like a bat out of hell.
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Go to AAMCO for a lifetime warranty then change the filter/fluid every 20k miles. Then check the rubber couplers. You will much happier in paying the cc off.
 
Ok ok ,I've heard aamaco Only then I've heard dealer only. I'm just gonna start with aamaco and get an estimate. Just didn't want a rebuild and find out it was something electronic Etc etc
 
Apparently Steve has had a good experience with All Automatics Must Come Out. I know and know of a lot of people who have not. At least check the review for your local one.
Personally, I asked the local independent shops where they send their transmission work to, and I went to that guy (also a local independent).
 
I've had three rebuilds a d the Aamco been the best in service and rebuild been in Anniston AL. If you can swing to the trip, no disappointments.
 
In scanning this thread...

I agree with Joe that the 2004 and later had less issues.

Nobody should EVER buy a "rebuilt" solenoid pack from Ebay. They are NOT rebuilt... just "re-ajusted" worn out junk.

Everybody seems to forget that there are 2 drive bands that need adjustment... preferably before 200k miles.

And after being told I was wrong in another thread... and finding a recent thread on here that proves I might be right... replacing the DTR, (neutral safety switch is the common name), can fix some quirky transmission problems.

After all... it is an electro-mechanical wear part.

The drive band adjustment, and DTR replacement are the 2 cheapest things to do... assuming cheap junk ignition coils aren't the actual issue.
 
5W4Z-7F293-AA

Fits all gens of LS with the 5r55 tranny... 2005-2010 Mustangs... and one other Ford vehicle I don't remember.

It will be around $35 shipped from FPG or Tasca... which are Ford Parts dealers... and actually have some of the best pricing on this OEM part.

DONT by the cheap aftermarket version.
 
Thank you ,I'm just afraid to put any big money into this car and end up with the same car. It's adding up though
 
And keep in mind that there is an alignment mark on the DTR.

The tranny has to be in neutral when aligning the mark.

If you are also planning on adjusting the bands... be prepared for a bit of a battle.

There's not alot of room to do it. In fact... the back of the tranny will have to be lowered some to get to the rear band adjuster.

The bolt/studs will be rusty, (depending on where you live), meaning the lock nuts on the band adjusters will be a beotch to back off far enough to adjust the bands properly.

New gasketed lock nuts are recommended. They come in a 4 pack from the dealer.

Part # E825100-S102 4X

Since I couldn't get my old lock nuts all the way off... I just tightened them really tight... and they did not leak.

Procedure is to back off lock nuts far enough to properly adjust the bands.

You will need an 8mm 12 point wrench to use on the square end on the bolt/stud... and a 19mm wrench for the nut. You will also need a compact torque wrench that measures in INCH pounds, (actually lb/in).

Tighten band bolt/stud to 120 INCH pounds, (not foot, but 120 lb/in is 12 foot pounds... or lb/ft).

Back off 1.5 turns... and tighten lock nut. (I forget the number for the nut torque).

DO NOT back the bolt/stud out too far... or the drive band will come off the end of the bolt/stud... which means you will then be dropping the tranny pan to get everything re-connected. :mad::(
 
I can tell you for a fact... that on an otherwise healthy transmission... the drive band adjustment does work.

In "the other thread" I referred to... a guy took his LS to a tranny shop because it was acting up.

He paid them $600-700 to install a new solenoid pack, (plus fluid and filter).

A couple hours of driving after he picked the car up... it started acting up again.

He took it back and the shop found a code, (that he couldn't remember)... and they replaced the DTR.

Problem was reported as fixed at that point.
 
While not as sophisticated as the LS... my '95 F-150 with 220k miles and E4OD tranny... was acting up a few years ago.

Being OBD 1 it wasn't really giving any codes... other than TCC lockup failure.

However... the engine was winding up... with a delayed shift based on throttle position. It was also bang shifting into every gear... like a drag car. Sometimes so hard it would chirp the tires.

Knowing the maintenance on the truck... since I bought it new... and that the E4OD tranny was almost bulletproof... I figured it had to be an electrical or linkage problem.

The TPS and tranny cable had been replaced previously, (due to age and wear), and they were still good... so I adjusted the linkage.

That helped... but it was still messed up with a slightly different behavior.

Put a new DTR on it, (Ford called it an MLPS back then), and ever since then its been shifting like a Cadillac, ( or should I say Lincoln). :rolleyes::D
 
Thank you so much one website says it's not for a 2004 LS but others say it will
 
If you do the drive band adjustment... you'll probably want to remove the DTR anyway... for more room... so that would probably be a good time to replace it anyway.

Like I said... the rear band is the hard one to get to. You'll have to loosen up and drop the tranny cross member... to get the tranny low enough to adjust the band.

Make sure you soak the cross member bolts with PB Blaster... so you don't strip the threads out.

You won't be able to drop the tranny very far due to the exhaust and driveshaft tunnel shield tin... but it should be enough. Make sure you support the tailshaft/cross member of the tranny with a jack stand... instead of a jack... for safety reasons.

You may find that you will need to adjust the shifter cable some afterwards. Especially since it will have to be removed at the tranny end to do the required work.
 
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