nghtshd88
Well-Known LVC Member
Meant the obsolete hose not O-Ring
EXACTLY...Look man. There is a rubber hose that runs from throttle body under manifold that leaks. It may or may not be available but you can make something up and if you are good you can do it without removing manifold.
My fan would not come on. I did have an extra fan but it had the single connector. Using alligator clips, I was able to get my extra fan to turn on. So, I clipped the connectors and made my one connector fan a two connector fan!Test 1: Turn the AC on. The fan should come on. If not, you have a problem.
Locate the cooling fan connector(s). If you are lucky, you will have the setup with two, two wire connectors. If not, you have the single four wire connector (harder to troubleshoot).
Test 2: Check for battery power on the large red/yellow wire. If no power, then suspect the 60A in-line fuse. If the fuse is blown, your fan is probably bad too.
Test 3: With the key turned to run, check for 12V power on the small green/yellow wire. If no power, then check fuse F1.05 in the box under the hood.
Test 4: If you have the two, two pin connectors, unplug the one with the two small wires. Jumper +12V to the green/yellow wire (on the fan side, not the car side). Do not connect anything to the white/black wire. The fan should start and run at full speed. If it doesn't, then the fan is bad. If the fan does run, then your PCM is bad.
Will do…regardless…it appears to be functioning properly and I’m very pleased that I figured out the fan issue.If you have a temp gun, shoot some of the smaller coolant hoses for temp check.
I think you'll find them running around 225-230.
I don't recall that. IIRC... all the bolts are to be tightened to 89 inch pounds. (0.113 Newton meters).The hack that installed it (your truly), has a tremendous fear of stripping bolts and bolt holes. They are intended to be pretty tight at 8Nm and then another 90 degrees.
I don't recall that. IIRC... all the bolts are to be tightened to 89 inch pounds. (0.113 Newton meters).