Solenoids Pack

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myfirstls

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Aloha guys.

To make the long story short, my LS are showing some signs of the dreaded solenoids pack symptoms. Rather than taking a chance, I'm planning to buy the solenoids pack.

Now, my questions is/are, I read all about how to replace the solenoids pack, but does not say anything about where to get one. I see some on evelbay, some on Amazon, and of course, you have to sell your kidney OEM. Any recommendation? I rather spend $500 now, then spend $150 here, and $250 there.

Oh and I did try search, but maybe I chose the wrong thing to search (used Solenoid for search).

Any tip here is/are appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
Buy it online from a Ford dealer like Tasca. It is ~$300 shipped. Make sure you are getting the latest part number revision, which should be 9L2Z-7G391-A if you have a 5R55S.
 
myfirstls said:
Aloha guys.

To make the long story short, my LS are showing some signs of the dreaded solenoids pack symptoms. Rather than taking a chance, I'm planning to buy the solenoids pack.

Now, my questions is/are, I read all about how to replace the solenoids pack, but does not say anything about where to get one. I see some on evelbay, some on Amazon, and of course, you have to sell your kidney OEM. Any recommendation? I rather spend $500 now, then spend $150 here, and $250 there.

Oh and I did try search, but maybe I chose the wrong thing to search (used Solenoid for search).

Any tip here is/are appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

not being a grammar nazi, but it is funny. By this you want to spend a lot but in increments. I think you mean than.

Reasons this is important.

Good: I would rather snuggle then have sex

Not so good: I would rather snuggle than have sex

Bad: I would rather snuggle then get punched by an ape :shifty:

Also I got mine at my local ford dealer for about 250, and it is pretty easy to put in, while you are in there I would also check the springs in the valve body as they are cheap and replace fluid and all gaskets.

The tool that makes the most difference is having a stubby 10mm ratcheting wrench to take the harness bolt out of the top of solenoid.
 
its better to be pissed off than pissed on.

vs

its better to be pissed off then pissed on.
 
anyone know if there is a kit that comes with all the springs for the valve body? or any part numbers thanks a lot. ebay has the solenoid for the 5r55s tranny for about 270 shipped

there might be some where else to get cheaper now in days
 
Some on here have had bad luck with the e-bay solenoid assemblies. I'd get a known good one from one of the on-line dealers (like Tasca).
 
jwct7 said:
Haha... it's just better to be pissed up than pissed off (sorry, my English humor)
Click to expand...

Once upon a time, there was a non-conforming sparrow that decided not to fly south for the winter.

However, soon the weather turned so cold that he reluctantly started to fly south. In a short time, ice began to form on his wings and he fell to earth in a farmyard, almost frozen. A cow passed by and crapped on the little sparrow. The sparrow thought it was the end, but the manure warmed him and defrosted his wings. Warm and happy, able to breathe, he started to sing. Just then a large cat came by, and hearing the chirping, investigated the sounds.

The cat cleared away the manure, found the chirping bird, and promptly ate him!

The moral of the story:

1. Everyone who craps on you is not necessarily your enemy.

2. Everyone who gets you out of the crap is not necessarily your friend.

3. And, if you're warm and happy in a pile of crap, keep your mouth shut!
 
Thanks guys for the info, and some correction!

I usually come here before I sleep, so I'll have a typo here and there.

Anyway. looking for set of solenoid pack, but shipping usually kills a good deal for me. Oh well.
 
2002_lincolnLS said:
not being a grammar nazi, but it is funny. By this you want to spend a lot but in increments. I think you mean than.

Reasons this is important.

Good: I would rather snuggle then have sex

Not so good: I would rather snuggle than have sex

Bad: I would rather snuggle then get punched by an ape :shifty:

Also I got mine at my local ford dealer for about 250, and it is pretty easy to put in, while you are in there I would also check the springs in the valve body as they are cheap and replace fluid and all gaskets.

The tool that makes the most difference is having a stubby 10mm ratcheting wrench to take the harness bolt out of the top of solenoid.
Click to expand...

should people doing the springs or going in there replace all the springs or just the ones that are broken what not?>
 
ReMiXeDg said:
should people doing the springs or going in there replace all the springs or just the ones that are broken what not?>
Click to expand...

You may as well order them all, they are cheap and no sense opening it back up later if you didn't. I replaced all the ones i got in my rebuild kit.
 
I recently replaced mine but it didn't resolve my issues so I assume my original solenoid packs were actually ok. You're welcome to have it if you pay for shipping assuming you're doing the work yourself then you'll just be out your time unless you have to change all the oil which would add cost to this test. I would ship from Buffalo (zip 14303) next time I'm there (in a couple weeks).
 
I'm thinking about buying the solenoid pack from Tasca. I going to have a mechanic replace it for me, is there anything I need to buy when replacing the solenoid pack?
 
its probably not even bad, just being fed bad data. keep researching.
 
Jesus A Rodriguez said:
I'm thinking about buying the solenoid pack from Tasca. I going to have a mechanic replace it for me, is there anything I need to buy when replacing the solenoid pack?
Click to expand...

Need isn't really the right word, but it might be good to get a filter and a pan gasket. I'd put fresh Mercon V fluid in too.
 
what do you mean data? The issue I'm having is when I throwing it into reverse the jumps really hard.
 
he thinks you need to complete a drive cycle, well he thinks everybody need to complete a drive cycle...

for the record, there is a reason most people on here see this all day
jrand said:
jrand
Senior LVC Member
This message is hidden because jrand is on your ignore list.
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Click to expand...



a harsh engagement of reverse (read: big kick when shifted) is as classic of a symptom of a bad solenoid pack as shooting off fireworks for America's birthday.
 
half the ppl who have me on an ignore list have me there bc they were proven wrong and cant get over the fact that they threw $300 worth of parts at something they could have fixed for free.

your pcm/shift lever has adapted to move at a pressure level that is out of spec. all kinds of crap can cause pressure changes. dramatic temp changes and other out of spec parts <or fuel> are likely the culprit. also if youre not waiting until the rpms drop down to about 1000 before you operate the lever, you will acquire a harsh engagement. this is common at season or temp changes when a colder than normal start can cause the rpms to stay higher for longer on startup.

get all of your parts/gas/etc clean or back in spec, then clear your keep alive memory <kam> via a battery disconnect and follow the procedures to reconnect it. you will likely then need to complete a drive cycle since your shift parameters will be wiped with the kam. harsh engagement will most likely be gone, for free.
 
1LoudLS said:
he thinks you need to complete a drive cycle, well he thinks everybody need to complete a drive cycle...

for the record, there is a reason most people on here see this all day




a harsh engagement of reverse (read: big kick when shifted) is as classic of a symptom of a bad solenoid pack as shooting off fireworks for America's birthday.
Click to expand...

tellin ppl what i think now.. kinda crazy that youre getting dumber than you were
 


http://www.counterpersontraining.co...ral/Sites/Global/File/standardfordrelearn.pdf

FORD VEHICLE COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES

BATTERY OR BATTERY CABLE(S)

Any time the battery is disconnected, the
Keep Alive Memory (KAM) is erased. This
means that any learned values that the
PCM has stored for adaptive systems such
as idle and fuel trim will have to be
relearned in order to achieve optimum
driveability and vehicle performance. This
can be achieved by performing the idle
relearn first, and then driving the vehicle as
you normally would on a test drive, making
sure that everything is operating properly.


​
 
1LoudLS said:
he thinks you need to complete a drive cycle, well he thinks everybody need to complete a drive cycle...

for the record, there is a reason most people on here see this all day




a harsh engagement of reverse (read: big kick when shifted) is as classic of a symptom of a bad solenoid pack as shooting off fireworks for America's birthday.
Click to expand...

And I assume the post says something about the double-secret drive cycle.

I've purchased 8 (that I remember), off the lot new cars so far; ALL with less than 50 miles in them. I've NEVER been advised by the selling dealers service department to do some sort of "drive cycle." They've advised me of the procedure to "bed" the brake pads and on the earlier cars how to treat the green engine. I've also read the owner's manuals as well as service manuals and have never read a NEED to do that type of procedure.
 
BigRigLS said:


http://www.counterpersontraining.co...ral/Sites/Global/File/standardfordrelearn.pdf

FORD VEHICLE COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES

BATTERY OR BATTERY CABLE(S)

Any time the battery is disconnected, the
Keep Alive Memory (KAM) is erased. This
means that any learned values that the
PCM has stored for adaptive systems such
as idle and fuel trim will have to be
relearned in order to achieve optimum
driveability and vehicle performance. This
can be achieved by performing the idle
relearn first, and then driving the vehicle as
you normally would on a test drive, making
sure that everything is operating properly.


​
Click to expand...

keep weeding bubbie; if you touch the +&- battery cables together long enough it clears your shift specs and it will drive like sht until you reset them properly. p0000 will be set, and no, it wont trip the light, but if you actually monitored your vehicle you would know it was there...
 
ive been riding my ls out in 1-3 gears. i have to find someone who will do the job right if i decide to keep the car but im most likely selling it for about 2k i would love to keep it but its been a nightmare.

im going to purchase a newer altima and throw some maxima rims on it and call it a day :) .. lol
 
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